Howto Hatband?

[Digger]

Hi Y'all,

I bought myself a rattlesnake skin at Tandy to make a hatband, but I don't really have any idea what to do.  I've browsed the net, and did a search on this archive, but didn't find much.  Can anybody point me the right direction, or maybe a good reference?

My main questions are, warnings about folding it over?  Any pre or post prep to the skin to protect it, seal it, finish it?  Do I need some kind of liner to wrap it around?  If so, what?  It's going to go on a black Tombstone-style hat.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Digger

[GunClick Rick]

do a search for Rittels snakeskin tan kits,should be some stuff yonder.Is your skin already tanned?If not scrape with the spoon end of a spoon gentley then sal twit NON IODISED SALT.Set in garage or other indoor and let it dry slowly,do not put in direct sunlight as that will make it brittle and turn it to glue.Soak in a pickle of water vineger and salt.I have to do some this summer
I think it is----- http://www.rittels.com looks like the website ,ight be gone.

[St. George]

When moistened, Rattlesnake skin has a natural glue to it that will adhere tightly to what it's pressed against, so you 'will' need a backing of some variety, and I'd suggest thin leather.

Talk to the guys at Tandy - they'll help you find the right thickness (no suede or anything like that) and you should be on your way.

Originals all have a backing of some sort - and Rattlesnake skin was even used as a tie - though as a ready-made bow tie, with the 'bow' part being formed properly and not tied in that manner.

Backings of those were often of heavy linen bias tape.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[GunClick Rick]

This is what i saved That Bruce Rittle sent me a few years ago~~~~That pickle works,i have used it..the correct recipe is here.

Rittel's

SNAKESKIN
TANNING KIT
Instructions
(Catalog #SSK-10)

RITTEL'S SNAKESKIN TANNING KIT contains all the necessary ingredients to
produce a real leather. Salt and White Vinegar are the only two ingredients
not included. These items are easily bought at a local store. Do not use
Kosher or Rock Salt - Non-Iodized Salt is best. Unlike other methods that
use Alum, Alcohol or Glycerine - RITTEL'S SNAKESKIN KIT produces a leather
suitable for crafts and leatherwork. The leather retains the distinctive
markings, plumps, has excellent durability, and strength.

* * * * * * * * * *
Fresh or frozen snakeskins tan the best. If you prefer to dry your
snakeskins, and tan them later - always avoid heat, and Salt them liberally.
After skinning - tack them out flat - flesh side up, flesh, and liberally
rub Salt into the flesh. Leave this layer of Salt on the skin for 2-3 days,
then brush it away, and allow the skin to dry thoroughly. Do not expose the
skin to heat, or direct sunlight while it dries - heat can render snakeskins
stiff and untannable. Heat causes the fibers to gelatinize to a glue-like
hardness - such skins are difficult and sometimes impossible to relax and
tan. To freeze fresh snakeskins - place them in a plastic garbage bag, and
use a twist tie to seal it - then freeze it solid. Snakes normally shed
their outer layer of skin to grow. This may occur during the tanning
process. If it does, remove the outer layer, and it should not affect your
skin.

Skinning - For Taxidermy purposes, usually an incision
Is made on the belly midway between the head and the tail, and after
loosening the skin from the flesh the skin is pulled off each end, similar
to removing a sock. For crafts or simply to display the skin - the snake is
skinned by making a belly incision its whole length, and the skin is
stripped from the flesh.

Fleshing - Snakeskins normally flesh easily. You can even use a Tablespoon
with 1 edge sharpened to scrape the meat from the inside of the skin. Some
tanners give it a serrated edge. Always - scrape the meat away working from
the tail towards the head to avoid tearing the skin. This is especially
important when handling small snakes.

Relaxing - Freshly fleshed snakeskins can be placed directly into the
Vinegar and Salt Pickling solution. Dried and frozen skins however, require
relaxing or thawing before they are pickled. For relaxing dried skins - Use
2 Lb. of Salt to every 1 Gallon of Water. Allow the skins to soak in this
Salt Brine until they become soft and flexible, then rinse and place them in
the Pickling solution. Frozen and fleshed skins can simply be placed
directly into the Pickle.

Pickling - To mix a Vinegar Pickling solution - mix 2 Quarts of White
Vinegar to 2 Quarts of Water, and add 1 Lb. of Salt. Mix enough solution to
completely submerge the skins without crowding! The Ph level should read
2.0-2.5 - it can be checked using Ph papers. Allow the skins to soak in the
Pickle for 2-3 days.

After your skins are thoroughly pickled - they can safely be left in the
pickling solution for several weeks, until you are ready to tan them. Stir
the Pickle at least once each day and do not expose it to temperatures below
50 degrees Fahrenhiet. When you are ready to tan the skins - remove them
briefly from the Pickle and rinse them. Squeeze out the excess water and
weigh them. Record this weight, it will be used to measure the amount of
KWIK-TAN tanning agent to use. For reliable results - always check the ph
level of your solutions. Ph levels are critical - and if not correct, your
chemicals will not be effective.

Tanning - When you are ready to tan - and after you have removed the skins
from the Pickle - add to the pickling solution: 6.5 Ozs. (by weight), or 5.0
fl. ozs. (by volume), or 2/3 a cup of RITTELS KWIK-TAN (KT-10), per 1 Lb. of
skin weight. Stir the solution, and then place the skins back into it. The
Ph level of the solution should read between 4.0 - if not, adjust it.

Leave the skins in the tanning solution for 12-20 hours. Snakeskins will
fully tan within this time. When tanned, remove the skins from the tan,
rinse and drain for 20-30 minutes - then oil.

Descaling - If you are going to use the snakeskin for making craft material,
then the scales should be removed. For Taxidermy or Display purposes, the
scales are usually left on the skin. To Descale - after the tan, rinse the
skins in Cold Water, then crumple the skins in your hands and you will
notice that the scales begin to fall away. Use a Brass bristled brush to
loosen the more persistent scales. Continue this process until the skins are
completely descaled.

Oiling - After tanning - all skins require Oiling. Prepare your Oiling
mixture by mixing 1 Part ProPlus Oil (PP-301) to 2 Parts Hot Water. Instead
of heating this mixture - simply use Hot tap water. Rub or brush the Oil and
Water mixture onto the flesh side of the snakeskin.

Finishing - If you will use the skin for Display or Crafts - after oiling,
tack it out flat and allow the Oil to soak into the flesh and dry - later
these tack holes along the edge can be trimmed away. For Taxidermy
purposes - After Oiling, its best to let the skin lay flat soaking up the
oil for 3-4 hours, and then it can be mounted - Or, if you prefer to freeze
it and mount it later, use a Roll of Paper Towels and put a layer on the
flesh, and then roll the skin up and freeze. For crafts - When the skin is
almost dry, begin to gently work the skin with your hands to soften it. When
softened and dry, lightly sand the flesh side to a smooth suede finish. If
the skin is to be for display - After drying, turn the skin over to display
the markings, tack it down using decorative tacks, and give it a coating of
clear lacquer or a clear Sealer to keep the scales from eventually curling.

[Digger]

Hi Y'all,

Thanks guys.  I knew I was asking in the right place.  Since I got the skin at Tandy, I'm assuming it's ready to work with, but I'm bookmarking that recipe for future reference anyway.  I went by a local fabric store and the closest to linen tape I could find was cotton twill tape, but all the old women standing around figured it'd be the right thing for a hatband liner.  Close enough to an endorsement for me.  It's my experience old women know stuff.

So two more questions.  You mention rattlesnake skin having a natural glue, but I was figuring on contact cement to glue it to the liner.  Any thoughts on that?

Do I need to take any special precautions about the crease in the skin when I fold it over the edge of the tape?  I plan to "wrap" the liner, with the seam down the back.


Thanks,
Digger

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

  Howdy Digger

     Welcome to the Leather Shop forum, sounds like you're ready to make a nifty looking hat band, the last rattle snake hat band I saw was at our county fair, there wasn't any stitching on it, it appeared to have been cemented to a 4 to 5 ounce 1" wide piece of leather, the very end where the rattle was looked to have been rolled a little bit and probably cemented too, the band itself where it was split was covered too, and to tighten the band to the hat there were a couple tact's that were pushed through the band and the hat to lock the band in, most these type bands will also need a piece of thread on either side going through the hat and around the band and tied off, this helps to keep the band on the hat if the hat gets blown off. hope this helps, nothing nicer than a good looking rattle snake hat band. IMHO.

         Regards

      tEN wOLVES   

[GunClick Rick]

My cousin owns an upholstry shop,when i watch him fold things,he makes slits down the edge to make folding over easier and to keep wrinkles out.practice on a different piece first.

[Arizona Cattleman]

Just a warning, anybody working with a fresh kill rattlesnake, be cautious of the snakes fangs, they can still inject venom through the fangs.  As a kid, we lost a dog that got too close to a dead snake and was bitten on the nose.  Just my 2 cents worth.

Az Cattleman

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

      Good advice AC, the first thing I do after I have killed a rattler is cut the head off and bury it deep enough so that it won't be a danger to man or animal, living where I do, and as a kid we ran into them all the time. rattle snake skin does make nice belt inlays, and hat bands, if they have been tanned and handled right, as a kid I never did get it right, but it wasn't for not trying.

            Regards

           tEN wOLVES 

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Welcome to the forum, Digger. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with for a band. We're picture junkies around here.

[Digger]

Hi Y'all,
Well, the hatband project worked its way back up in the queue to get done.  It's a long story, but basically the materials and I got separated in the snow.  The rattlesnake skin was in the car at the bottom of the mtn, and by the time I got the car back up to the house, it had lost its turn.

So, since I'm snowed in again, I started getting everything together to tackle the hatband, only to discover the hat I wanted it on already has a hatband, which is glued on.  I'm not willing to risk wrecking the hat for an experiment, so I'm back to square one.

Anybody got any ideas on what to make with a rattlesnake skin?

Thanks,
Digger

[MontanaSlick]

I've always have stayed away from rattle snakes and so far they stay away from me

Hers a pik of my Sidekicks hat band, see if I kin get it to work here, stand by.





He's trying the Cogburn look, I think he gave up

MS