Uberti .50-95 fired case - photos

ndnchf · February 10, 2009, 07:22:38 PM

OK guys, I managed to get a couple shots of my .50-95 cases. On the left of each photo is a new, unfired Ten-X .50-95 case. On the right is a Ten-X case fired in my Uberti .50-95. Notice the sharp shoulder of the Uberti fired case?

Both cases:

Close up of both cases:

Backstrap Bill · February 18, 2009, 12:57:24 PM

The shoulders of my Uberti once-fired cases look just like yours. I have made a casting of the cavity of my sizing die - the shoulder looks more like the case on the left.

Tonight, I hope cast the chamber & will post both photos over on my 'Got my 50-95, now what' thread.

ndnchf · February 18, 2009, 01:55:44 PM

Bill,

My dies may be similar. When I ran some straight .50 Alaskan cases into my sizing die, they came out with a soft looking shoulder similar to the left case in the photo. But after firing they look like the right case. After resizing the fired cases they still look like the case on the right.

The plot thickens......

larryo_1 · February 24, 2009, 07:41:22 AM

Have any of you that have these 50-95's tried to fire-form 348 brass? It just seems to me-even tho I don't have a 50-95- that if it works for my 45-75, why wouldn't it work for a 50-95. I would think that if you got one or two 348 cases lying around to play with, you could anneal them, put some Bullseye or Tite group in, fill with corn meal and put a bees wax wad on top, step outside and go bang. I would do this before trimming the case. Then, if you don't got a split case, I would think that these would be alot cheaper to use than what you are saying you are using. And they would last longer. After firing and no splits, trim them to what your 50-95 brass lengths are. Just thought about this awhile so figured I'd pass it on.

ndnchf · February 24, 2009, 10:02:34 AM

I've thought about it, but don't have any laying around. It seems like quite a stretch, literally

to open them up. But I'm sure it can be done with proper annealing. I wonder how thin the mouth would be after expanding.

I have 100 Ten-x .50-95 headstamped cases and I bought 20 .50 Alaskan to play with. The .50AK is so close to the .50-95 that its a snap to form and trim them. They run about a buck a piece, less in quantity, so its a pretty good option. However, I now have enough brass to keep me occupied for a while. If Jamison comes out with their own .50-95 brass, I'll get some of that. It should be good quality and reasonably priced.

evodude · February 27, 2009, 04:24:03 PM

I dont see any reason to use anything but .348 brass for the .50-95. Im on my eighth loading, zero stretch and no split cases. No annealing necessary, size,trim,put a healthy charge of powder in, and shoot it. Perfectly formed brass, only thing that doesnt change is the headstamp- they STILL read .348 Win.!! And Im shooting the bullet just as it drops from the mould, .515, my barrel is .513. Shoots 4" groups at 100 yds, 1/2" groups if I fire only one bullet! Why mess with anything else? Youre not ending up with a .50-95 Win. headstamp forming TenX, and it sure cost way more for 100 rounds of brass. >348 new is 30 bucks a bag of 50.

Dirty Brass · February 27, 2009, 05:07:24 PM

Quote from: evodude on February 27, 2009, 04:24:03 PM
1/2" groups if I fire only one bullet! Why mess with anything else?

evodude · February 28, 2009, 07:26:47 AM

I stand corrected- .513 one shot group!

Mossyrock · February 28, 2009, 08:17:28 AM

Quote from: evodude on February 27, 2009, 04:24:03 PM
1/2" groups if I fire only one bullet!

Gee...wonder where you stole that line from?!?

larryo_1 · February 28, 2009, 08:27:47 AM

Watch out for flies on your front site when going after those tite groups.

evodude · February 28, 2009, 10:38:24 AM

Not stold, borrowed! Although,I have accomplished it with me trusty .50 more than once......!