ASM Richards and BP--Fixed!!

[1860]

Hi,

These ASM Richards that were sold in the 90's are not really a correct copy but I like them and have 2, an 1860 and what is supposed to be an 1861, both in 38.  Both shot to the left and needed an offset front sight.  The 60 was new and needed a new trigger and basic action work, the 61 was used and required new springs, trigger, bolt, and hammer knotches reworked and hardened.  Both are accurate, tight as can be and do not over-rotate when run hard.  And both lock up after 5-6 shots of BP forceing me to use 777-uuuck..I want to shoot BP!!!

I've been wanting to build a cylinder bushing like my 72 OT has but was affraid of messing up the cylinder knowing I'd never find another.  Yesterday was the day.  I took a platen bushing from an IBM Selectric typewriter, very hard metal, chucked it up in my drill and spinning it slowly, used a dremil to open it up about .015 more.  Wish I had a lathe but a drill press was used to hollow out the end of the cylinder and it was hard to find the center but I got darn close.  Some very carefull dremil work was done to the barrel to make room for the bushing, mask off everything with ducktape incase you slip-I did but no damage.  It took a couple hours of fine fitting to get every thing correct, mainly because most of the work was done by hand.  I silver soldered the bushing in the cylinder and that required some more fitting but it spins true.  Took it out back and ran 35 rounds of 2F goex through it before it got at all stiff, and I did not lube it before shooting as I was in a hurry to beat the rain.  The fouling allowed me to see a high spot under the barrel , a touch of dremil took care of that and I'm confident of getting 50 trouble free rounds...

I'll shoot it this afternoon and run it until it stops.  If anyone want pics I can do that.  A word about the typewriter part, I started my career fixing them and many of my guns have parts from them, that sloppy lever on a 73 is cured by a paper thin brass washer, stiff trigger block levers are lightened by using a flat keyboard spring, and etc.  Sounds "iffy" but I'm good at it and my buddy of many years loves to describe me and my guns as "The Remington Army" -(those from RVN might remember that..)..

60

[Old Top]

1860,

Are you trying to tell me you are a "Remington Raider"?   

Old Top

[1860]

Top,

I believe they were called the (Remington Brigade) "Back in the day" but it's been a long time...Thanks for your service!

As far as the gun goes, I'd rather be lucky than good anyday, applies here.  The gas check ring I made stayed silversoldered for 35 rounds and worked well until it came loose.  I took it apart and cleaned everything up and decided to just try it without the ring.  The front of the cylinder is bored out the diameter of the ring and about 1/4" deep and I was hoping that would some how dissipate the gas-or something like that(really figured I was screwed).  Well, to my amazment, it ran 75 rounds and the cylinder still spun freely, took it apart and the aubor was still wet with lube.  I think that between the boring of the cylinder face and the metal I removed from the bottom of the barrel, I gave the gas somewhere else to go other than right down on the aubor-who knows -it works and is safe.   I feel like a kid who just got his favorite toy for christmas, I got a "new" smoke wagon to play with.

60

[Snake River James]

I have two ASM 1860 conversion, both in .38 SPL.  One came with a removeable gas check ring, the other had none.  I got the latter gun first.  First time I shot the second gun -with the gas check ring- with black, it bound up in less than 5 shots.  The gun without the ring would run all day on black.  I took the ring off the second gun and VOILA!...it ran like a champ too.  Now if my Schofields and Laramie would do the same thing, I really be happy.  But no such luck.