Stoeger - single verses double trigger ?

[rickk]

It's probably a moot point, because I already ordered a single trigger Stoeger, but I saw some comments on internet about reliability issues with the single trigger version. Of course, the internet is big, and all it takes is one or two instances of a problem for it to propagate all over internet.

Has anyone seen a first hand issue with the single trigger version? If so, what was the issue, and was it fixable?

[rickk]

It's even more of a moot point now.

I am still waiting for the single trigger version to come in and the dealer has no idea when that will happen, so I ordered a double trigger version as well.

They look enough alike that if my wife never sees the two of them at the same time I will only get yelled at once.

[rickk]

OK, the first of the two (the double trigger version) arrived today. The dealer (a Stoeger dealer) who had sold hundreds of Stoeger SxS's had never actually seen the SS receiver/blue frame version before. He thought it looked better than any of the other versions (plain blue or all nickle) ... maybe he will stock that model now.

Anyway, this is the "Supreme" model with the factory installed rubber butt pad. I was thinking about putting a higher quality rubber butt pad on it... (Limbsaver or KickEEZ) as I really hate pain. Has anyone else done this, and if so, which particular butt pad did you use? I don't exactly see one that will just screw on, so I guess I may need to get a grind to fit version... just looking for advice as to where to start. 

Again, this is the "Supreme" version that already shortened a bit and has a thick rubber pad installed, rather than the metal plate. I am guessing that the stock outline would be slightly different between the two models.


Aside from that... the fit is not too pad. Some minor but overlookable gaps between things. The break-open mechanism is tight, and the chambers show the same reaming marks that everyone else seems to see. I think a bit of smoothing and polishing should smooth it up.

I recall that a number of people mentioned polishing the extractor mechanism. Yes, mine seems a bit rough moving in and out. How does one take it out?

[rickk]

I took the double trigger version out back today and put 15 rounds of 3-1/4 dram, 1 ounce factory stuff thru it. I was wearing a sweat shirt and a very light jacket... not too much padding. I was prepared for pain that did not happen. It was mild to shoot. No fear to pull the trigger.

As I sit here 1/2 hour later, my shoulder is telling me I just shot a shotgun, but not bad.

I know the brass shells with 50 grains of 1F that I will eventually put thru it will be much milder, so I am not really seeing any need to mess with the factory rubber recoil pad at all right now.

Changing subjects a bit... I'm sure that 3/4 's of us who are married dread the typical reaction when a new toy comes home. Here is a tip that worked for me. Two years ago we had bear problems, and I brought my wife out bear gun shopping. We came home with a Lefevre marked Ithaca for which I paid not very much at all for.

I went to a gun show recently and saw similar guns in far less perfect shape going for about 3x what I paid for this one. Then the miracle part happened. I got a call from the guy I bought it from. The original box and sales paperwork magically appeared. This is all on a 1930's gun in 90%+ condition.

So, my story is that the Ithaca is too valuable to beat on down in the woods, and that it will go in the safe and this is the replacement.

Now it gets even better, as she said that it it is of course "her gun" (to replace the bear gun that she considered "her gun")....

So, when the single trigger version arrives, my story is that I liked "her new gun" so much that I had to buy one too 

Ain't life funny sometimes?
 

[Pettifogger]

Whether the single trigger is "reliable" partly depends on what you are going to use it for.  For duck hunting and dove hunting once a year it will probably be OK.  However, for high volume shooting like someone that shoots CAS on a regular basis and practices a lot they leave a lot to be desired.  The reset "mechanism" is very crude.  It basically consists of a bump on top of the right hand hammer that after it has fired the right hand barrel and rebounds it kicks the right sear up a bit to set the left hand sear.  What you will get after shooting it some or trying to tune it so it is lighter and more competition friendly is doubling.  The design can't be fixed as there's just not much in there to work with.  Good hunting shotgun, not so gun competition gun.

[rickk]

Well, the plot thickens...

Not everything on internet appears to be true it seems.

My single trigger arrived tonight.

I had read a number of horror stories about the poorly designed "inertial reset" single trigger mechanism on the Stoeger single trigger version. A couple of people told how they practiced "bumping the stock" to select the second barrel in case the first barrel failed to fire.

I haven't fired it yet, but I did dry fire it.

With no ammo in it, and with no "stock bumping", both sides drop. "Click", and then "Click".

Seems like a percentage of what has been written about these on the 'net may be in in error with the current production design.

I'll try it out this weekend and see how it works out.

BTW, Trulock S.S. chokes (Winchester-Mossberg-Browning Pattern-Plus flush mounted) fit perfectly. The original chokes have two slots for the included wrench. TruLock chokes have four slots. The Stoeger wrench will fit either, but I ordered the Trulock four slot wench for added beef "just in case".

On another note, Dave from "Kick-Eez" has recommended a #301-10LB "grind to fit pad as a suitable pad for this gun. I don't have a bench sander. I am trying to figure out how to "grind to fit" a pad with what I have. Hand sanding with a sanding block sounds like a heck of a lot of work. I need to dwell on this a while, or find someone with an appropriate sander.

[Pettifogger]

There is no "stock bumping" as the gun does not have an inertia reset action.  It is a mechanical action, but not a terribly sophisticated mechanical action.  Dry firing tells you nothing.  You need to fire it a few hundred rounds to see how it holds up.  Also, do not dry fire it without snap caps.  The firing pins tend to be soft and can mushroom and case misfires.  If you are going to use it as a cowboy action gun you might want to replace the firing pins with hardened ones.

[rickk]

Thanks for the advice on the firing pins Pettifogger. I have already gotten my hands on four S.S. pins and a firing pin bushing wrench. As soon as I get thru the "it's gunna work so I won't be sending it back" period I will swap them out.

Have you ever swapped them personally, and is there anything to look out for while doing so? Do I just unscrew the bushings and replace them, or is there more to it than that?

Rick

[Pettifogger]

I've worked on bunches of Stoegers.  Recently wrote an article on how to tune them for the Cowboy Chronicle.  Usually just unscrew the bushings and put them in.  However, check first by sticking each pin into the bushing and make sure there are no burrs in the firing pin holes.

[rickk]

Sat in front of the TV for an hour or so, running a bore swap saturated with valve grinding compound up and down thru the chambers of the double trigger version. It is not shiny yet by any means, but quite a bit smoother than when I got it.

I'll put a few more shells thru it tomorrow, and try out the single trigger version as well.

[Pettifogger]

You'll have better luck if you put your bore swab in an electric drill and spin it rather than going straight in and out.

[rickk]

I may give that a try Pettifogger. I was thinking that in and out would help get rid of the "round and round" pattern in the chambers, but considering how long I worked and how little was removed, I'll see if Mr Drill Press can help me out.

[rickk]

Well Pettifogger, I just came back from the range.

The double trigger is still working flawlessly.

The single trigger doubled each of the 6 times I loaded it.

I hurt.

I tried once loading a single barrle. When I fired it, I pull the trigger a second time and there was no click. I assume that means we arn't talking about a long or stuck firing pin, and that the hammer is falling on the second barrel due to recoil.

I pulled the stock off. No cosmolene or crud. Everything appears to be fine.

I see what you mean about the mechanism being "crude". Not much in there to make it all happen.

One of the guys from the shop I bought it from happened to be at the range. He said "ya, that happens, bring it back and we will send it back for repair". Of course, when I ordered it his boss said they never had any problems with them.

Any thoughts about what makes this happen?

Rick

[rickk]

The gun shop I bought the single trigger from is not open on Mondays, so I emailed Stoeger Sunday night, asking them if they had any advice (it couldn't hurt to ask). As of right now (Tuesday evening, no response).

Anyway, I dropped the gun off at the dealer this afternoon. He is going to take care of sending it back to try to get it fixed.

While I was there, I was shown a low mileage, two trigger SxS coach gun with exposed hammers. It is made by "Khan", and was called a "Double Diamond". I can not seem to find out much about it. other than it is an import currently imported by Century Arms. I can not find a current list price on it, so I can't even begin to guess if what he is asking is a fair price or not.

While it has seen little use, this one may be 10 years old. It is pretty, but I don't really want another lame duck. Anyone ever heard of one of these?