Wooden plug for wet formin

[amin ledbetter]

I ran into an issue while wet forming a closed end holster. The leather pulled the folded edge around the barrel and put a hook type shape in it. It is very uneven and look like poo! ( Well I didn't want to cuss! There may be ladies present!! ) I was thinking of making a wooden plug to the shape I want and reforming it around the plug. Is this do-able, or should I try another method? Has anyone had this problem before on closed end holsters? If so how did you address it?

[Ned Buckshot]

I've found that by continuing the seam around and up the toe just a little eliminates that problem. I'll see if I've got a holster left done that way I can post a picture.

Ned

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

   amin, are you talking about a toe plug on a holster or just a sewed up bottom, either way, I use wood dowels that I round off the ends a little so as to not scrap the leather as I use it to open up and STRAIGHTEN the holster out, it simulates a barrel real well and you can work it around your holster as you do your wet forming, but you want to finish off with the forming of your gun, the dowel will help open up the bottom so that it won't be too tight. works for me, and I do this on open end holsters to before I mold my gun, I use different sizes in the dowel, to help open up the seam line when necessary, it makes a great aid when fitting your gun.


             tEN wOLVES 

[Dalton Masterson]

I do the same thing as Ned. I usually round off and up the non stitched side a little bit more and this helps.
I dont know if its a leather thickness thing, or what, but most of the ones I have made closed ended, have done this. Rounding off the toe where the stitching would end, and stitching it just a hair farther have helped.
DM

[Slowhand Bob]

Be sure and save those old broom handles after the wife wears out the straw.  BE SURE to remove the old paint if yours has it, it will rub off while burnishing.  The end is already well rounded and they are found in several sizes, the wife occasionally  buys the heavy ones at Sams for use in the shop and garage. 

[Marshal Will Wingam]

ON closed-toe holsters, I also stitch up the folded side a little. I've only had one that needed to be straightened and a rounded 1/2" dowell worked fine for that. Here's a pic to show how much I round the toes. Another thing that seems to help is that I don't plan the holster to have the barrel jamed tightly into it. I like to leave enough to allow a smooth transition from the stitch line, like the rest of the seam.

[TN Mongo]

I've done toe plugs before, but I have been leery of a closed toe holster for blued guns because, on first impression, it would appear that this would cause more bluing wear on the barrel.  Am I full of it, or is this not a problem with this design?     

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

TN Mongo, how are ya

    I'd say you're more right than wrong, most sewed holster bottoms unless stretched out at the bottom will tend to be snug, That,s why in my opinion it's better to make a holster with a sealed bottom a little longer, to allow more room for the barrel end and sight, a good extra inch and a quarter will help re-leave the tightness, and then a good working over with the appropriate size dowel that has been rounded over at the ends should make this style holster fit your gun like a glove, but you will still get wear on the barrel as to how much or more than an open ended holster, really depends on how much use the holster get over time, I for one prefer an open toe holster, after years of hunting, I fine the open toe much more easy to clean and keep clean, but I live in Sunny California, for those that hunt and live in areas that get muddy or snow, a sealed toe or toe plug is a wiser way to go, if you were to fall or slip in snow or mud, the open toe doesn't allow for any protection for the barrel, and the barrel could get plugged with mud or snow making it a dangerous piece of iron if gone unnoticed. didn't mean to ramble on, just happens some times .

[TN Mongo]

Thanks TW.  Sometimes I get stuck in my Cowboy Action Shooting mindset and forget about someone carrying a handgun in the outdoors for a different purpose.

[Trailrider]

I absolutely recommend a closed-end holster, whether a plug style or stitched 'round toe (like the one shown in the photo)!  When you have slid down the side of as many mountains and sidehills as I have with a sixgun on your belt, you'll appreciate NOT getting a plug of snow and/or mud up the muzzle!

As to bluing wear caused by the muzzle rubbing against the end of the holster, as was mentioned, a PARTIAL cure is to wet-form the leather out using a rounded-end wood dowel.  However...I use a 7/8" diameter dowel for Colt's SA's and Ruger Old Model Vaqueros.  Even adjustable sight Blackhawks and Super Blacks need at least this and maybe more, depending on the thickness of the leather, etc.

One other comment... a gun has to contact the inside of the holster in about seven places, depending on the design of the holster.  Where it contacts, it will rub on being drawn or inserted in the holster.  Where it contacts, it will cause bluing wear on a blued gun!  Since bluing is merely a several molecule-thick oxide, it won't take much to rub it off.  A holster lined with cowhide and wet-fit to the gun will wear less.  But it will NOT eliminate it altogether.  And suede is the WORST for wearing bluing.  It picks up dirt and grease and acts like sandpaper.  Don't take my word for it.  I've only been making holster professionally since 1968.  Check John Bianchi's book, "Blue Steel and Gun Leather".  Why do some manufacturers use suede?  Because customers ask for it, and rather than lose the business, they will make suede-lined holsters.  (Sorry, I will NOT!)  Also, be sure that the lining is vegetable-tanned leather.  Chrome-tanned pig (and you CAN get veg-tanned pig) is okay, but not as durable as cowhide.

Ride easy, but stay alert!

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Thanks TW.  Sometimes I get stuck in my Cowboy Action Shooting mindset and forget about someone carrying a handgun in the outdoors for a different purpose.

     Mongo, like they say, several minds are better than one, Trailrider and I seem to be on the same page with this topic, guess we went to different schools together, everything he said I'm in agreement with, as I had posted earlier, and like John Bianchi I had Alfonso Penada as an early teacher in what works well in gun leather, in his case he did suede linings, but he never recommended them, for the same reasons Trailrider spoke of, Alfonso had a lot of LEO customers that he said insisted on having suede for a lining, there thinking was that it would be easier on the guns finish, which wasn't true, Al told me some times it's best to let the customer find out on his own, and they did, he said a lot of his repeat customer went for cow hide lining/veg tan the second time around, but he also had the die hards that would still order the suede even though there last holster got really cruddy inside, dirty suede can turn into a sand paper like material after a while, and will wear a guns finish faster than it the holster wasn't lined at all.