Copper Rivet Setters.....

[Marshal Tac]

I am thinking about picking up a copper rivet setter that I saw on sale at the local Tandy store.... I have several heavy leather sheathes and holsters that could use the re-enforcement of a solid rivet. (I've tried the snap rivet's on a couple and they were too short.)

Any experience with one out there? How do you use yours?

Any advise/suggestions are welcome.
-Tac

[SaddleRider]

I am thinking about picking up a copper rivet setter that I saw on sale at the local Tandy store.... I have several heavy leather sheathes and holsters that could use the re-enforcement of a solid rivet. (I've tried the snap rivet's on a couple and they were too short.)

Any experience with one out there? How do you use yours?

Any advise/suggestions are welcome.
-Tac

Marshal Tac,

I have used the copper rivets and rivet setter, mainly in the replacement of stirrup leathers on saddles and they work great.

There are different sizes, so make sure you get the setter corresponding to the rivet # to avoid the wrong size issue.


1.  Once you make the hole for the rivet to go through the leather, push the copper rivet through the backside toward the front side. (or reverse it if you want the         domed side on the bottom or backside)
2.  Place the bottomside on a flat steel/anvil.
3.  Place a copper washer over the rivet.  (Note, you will not be able to push the washer down by hand and it will be near the top of the rivet.)
4.  Place the hollow side of the setter onto the rivet and down against the washer.
5.  Drive the setter and washer down over the rivet, much like hitting a nail with a hammer, until the washer is tightly down against the leather, drawing out any           gap in between the head, leather and washer.
6.  Using nipper cutters, clip off the excess end of the rivet.
7.  Next, using your setter, place the domed area of the setter over the end of the clipped rivet and give it a couple of good solid hits to round and lock it into place       so the washer doesn't come lose.

All done!

Some folks do beat down the rivet dome afterward as added protection, but if you dome it right, you don't need to do this, unless you want it more rustic or "hand-hammered" look.

[RollingThunder]

I do prefer to use a ball-peen hammer to flatten it out at first, but then dome them afterwards as described. For me, anyway, that gets more of a spread over the burr.

Just my .02 ... your mileage may vary. See your dealer for details. lol.

[SaddleRider]

I do prefer to use a ball-peen hammer to flatten it out at first, but then dome them afterwards as described. For me, anyway, that gets more of a spread over the burr.

Just my .02 ... your mileage may vary. See your dealer for details. lol.

RT,

I'll be getting a few extra miles following your advice.  I'll have to try out your method.

[R.T. Rangebum]

I have a very small ball peen hammer, I cut the rivet and then peen it over using the small hammer and leave the hammer marks in. Using a small hammer you can work your way around the whole rivet making it as round and domed as the setting tool would. It also helps to prevent smashing the washer.

Rangebum

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I do it the same way as RT does. I have a 2 oz ball peen hammer I use for the job. I like to be able to peen it down enough so there are no edges to drag on clothing and such. My setter doesn't work all that well anyway. It's fine for seating the burr but when it comes to setting the rivet, it does a spectacular job of bending them over.

[ChuckBurrows]

Douglas Tools  307-737-2222  Sheridan, WY
IMO these folks make THE finest copper rivet setters, nothing compares  - they are three piece sets and used properly they give perfect sets - just like on a pair of Levis.
Like most good tools they are not cheap but as always you get what you pay for.....
You do have to buy a set for each size rivet but only one or two sizes are really needed for gunleather - #14 and/or #12

Will - I've had problems with #14's bending no matter what I used -  after much cussin' IMO it's a matter of the lack of stiffness in the leather not supporting those skinny shanks than it is the tool used....I did find a place that sells #13's an want to try those - for now I'm using #12's mostly since they aren't much bigger than #14's and I've had no trouble with the shanks bending.......

[cowboy316]

ive been looking for rivets but having a hard time finding them fairly cheap is there some where cheaper than tandy?

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks, Chuck. I'll probably get some bigger ones to try.

[ChuckBurrows]

ive been looking for rivets but having a hard time finding them fairly cheap is there some where cheaper than tandy?

Check with Hidecrafters, Siegel of California, Montana Leather, and Mid-Continent Leather supply and compare prices. FWIW - a pound of rivets lasts a LONG time for most hobbyists and price - well copper unfortunately went way up last year and so did all products made from it............my suggestion is to get some #12's in one inch length which will cover 98% of all your work....

[cowboy316]

Chuck
   Thank you very much for the info Ill check them out hopefully theres some where cheaper than 15 bucks for a 50 count
thanks again
    Cowboy316