Cylinder Sticking

[Roland of Gilead]

Greetings, Once again

Okay so I'm puttin rounds through my 1860 conversion and I've noticed that after about 50 rounds or so, the cylinder starts to get hard to turn as I'm rotating it to unload. Also, when I cock it. A little lube fixes it right up, but I need to apply it after every twelve to eighteen rounds or so.

  I guess my question is, is this just a normal part of shooting this gun, or can something be done so I can shoot it like my other guns without thinking about it til the end of the day?


  Regards,


ROLAND       

[Pettifogger]

What kind of conversion are you talking about?  A factory Uberti conversion or a C&B gun that was converted using an aftermarket cylinder kit?  Also, what kind of ammo are you using?  (Smokeless or BP.)

[Mako]

What Pettifogger said...

[Roland of Gilead]

Ok, It's a factory Uberti conversion 1860 Richards Mason in 38spl, I was shooting the Wal-Mart white box 38's, just target ammo.

[Fox Creek Kid]

Seth's right. LOTS of good grease type lube on the cylinder pin. 

[Roland of Gilead]

I use Rem-Oil as lube, the logic being teflon, nothing will stick     As far as the wedge I really haven't given that much thought. I usually push it in until I can comfortably turn the screw two or three times.

Is it advisable to pull it out further and allow the screw only one/one and a half turns?  seems like the screw would have too much of a gap between itself and the barrel. 



Thanks Roland

[Pettifogger]

The screw doesn't really adjust the wedge.  It's purpose is to keep the wedge from falling out and getting lost.  You should be able to push the wedge in with thumb pressure and the notch in the wedge should allow the screw to fully seat.  Most people then push the wedge back until it contacts the screw.  The problem on almost all Ubertis is that the arbor is to short and when the wedge is pushed in to far it tilts the barrel back a slight amount and it binds the cylinder or makes the cylinder gap to small.  When you push the wedge in to its proper depth and put the hammer on half-cock do you have a slight amount of fore and aft movement on the cylinder and is there a decent (.006" or so) of barrel gap?  Sounds like the cylinder is either dragging on the cylinder bushing or the gap is to small.

[Leo Tanner]

My Dad's 1872 in .38 was doing that.  He took it to a gunshop and was told he had been using too much force on the wedge.  He replaced the wedge and the screw fer good measure and follows the gunsmiths advice on putting it back together, which is exactly how Pettifogger said.  His is a Cimmeron, so I'm not sure if that makes any difference.


Long Days and Pleasant Nights

Leo

[Roland of Gilead]

Long Days and Pleasant Nights

Leo

And may you have twice the number.

Thanks for the comments.


Roland

[August]

May I suggest generous quantities of Mobil 1 bearing grease.  Being synthetic, it'll work with both powder types.  I use it with great success (entire match without cleaning) on my USFA SA gunz.

[Roland of Gilead]

I'll have to try that. I was trying to think what would be the best grease type lubricant. I have bore butter for my BP guns. But mabey the Mobile 1 will do the trick.


thanks

[Flint]

The 1860/51/61 cap & ball wedges have a spring with a hook on the end.  The hook should just latch over the edge of the right side barrel slot.  Too far, as Pettifogger says, and you will clamp the cylinder with the barrel extension at the cylinder gap.  The screw's purpose is to catch the spring's hook upon disassembly so it won't fall out, not to adjust anything.  Screw it all the way in, or it won't catch the wedge upon removal.

The 1872 wedge system is very different.  It has no spring, but has a  clearance cut made for the screw head, which has a flat on it to allow the wedge to pass for removal, after turning the screw to align the flat..  This wedge does come out completely for disassembly.  The proper position for the 1872 wedge is with the inside face of the screw head against the facing clearance cut face.  Driving this wedge further in will clamp the cylinder at the gas ring and bind it.

[Leo Tanner]

Good info Flint.  I'm looking forward to the chance to make it back out to my Dad's and give his 1872 a good looking over and go through the process of breaking it down with him.