The baby 1876 - question?

[Dirty Brass]

Didn't know quite where to ask, so I started here. I have two model 76's, and I love them, but I also shoot a '66, and a '60 Henry, both in brass frames. My question pertains to the 1873 Win, which as near as I can see is just a '66 with a steel frame. I've been knocking meself out trying to decide if I should get a '73 in 44/40. Anyone think I'll ever wear out the '66 BF model? I don't see it happening, so then it's just a matter of cosmetics and a slightly harder frame and surface. Oh, and the CCH is pretty too, but is it worth the move? Does anyone shoot both and have an opinion? I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

[Grizzly Adams]

Hey, brassmagnet.

The answer to your question kinda comes down to personal preferences.  However, I'll throw my .02 cents into the kitty for ya!

The Uberti Henry, 1866 and 1873 all share the same toggle link action.  Even the parts interchange.  (This is not true of the originals.)  I shoot both the 1866 and the 1873, and I prefer the 1873.  I have smoothed both up and installed the same short stroke kits in both.  The 73 "feels" better to me and seems to be slicker - maybe that's just me.....  The primary reason to go with the 1873, IMHO, is the ease of maintenance the 73 provides.  The 73 allows the user to remove the side plates with one screw in order to do basic cleaning and lubing.  With the 1866 you have to loosen up the timing spring screws, in order to remove the lever screw, in order to remove the side plates.  If you don't loosen the timing spring screws, the lever screw in under strain. 

The Winchester 1873 was an improvement over the 1866 in more ways that just a more powerful cartridge.

Hope that helps!

[john boy]

Magnet - IMHO, if you have a '60 Henry and a '66 Yellowboy - skip the '73 and get a '92 in 44-40.  The '92 is half the price and with a $100 race job will shoot thousands of rounds with no hiccups and works very smoothly.  My 45 does.  I'm in the neighborhood of close to 11,000 rounds (99% BP): not one hiccup and not one broken part.  Plus, it's only been field stripped once for cleaning

PS:  I don't own a '73 and never intend to buy one.  But if I'm given one it will probably just sit in the gun rack.  I haven't shot my '66 in over 3 years cause the '92 is a workhorse!

[Deadeye Don]

Buy the 1873.  A 73 is NOT just a 66 with a steel frame. 

[Dirty Brass]

Thanks for the feedback folks. I guess I never considered the cleaning aspect, since I was under the impression it wasn't required very often to get inside the receiver. Good point tho. I have looked at the '92, but it reminds me too much of a Marlin '94 CB I bought many years ago in 44 Mag. That gun is very short and light, but case extraction has always been a problem with that particular gun. I should just rechamber it to 45 LC - is that possible? I like the 44/40 cartridge, so a '73 would likely be in that caliber....

Anyhow, sounds like it's mostly personal choice, and everyone has their own feelings on it. I'll wait a bit, but knowing me, somewhere down the line I'll end up with a '73, just because

[Dirty Brass]

Well, I got lucky, and that "somewhere down the line" timeframe ended on Oct. 10th.
Managed to pic up a Uberti 1873 44/40 at a very reasonable price - under 700. Only catch is it has the 30" BBL. I may cut it back - we'll see. Milling out the wierd Uberti tube band slot may be a problem, but the rest I can handle.....

Anyhow - I now have a '73 Winchester clone in the caliber I like!

[Grizzly Adams]

Well, I got lucky, and that "somewhere down the line" timeframe ended on Oct. 10th.
Managed to pic up a Uberti 1873 44/40 at a very reasonable price - under 700. Only catch is it has the 30" BBL. I may cut it back - we'll see. Milling out the wierd Uberti tube band slot may be a problem, but the rest I can handle.....

Anyhow - I now have a '73 Winchester clone in the caliber I like!

Congratulations on your 1873  brassmagnet.  $700 is very good buy!

By the way, that "weird"  magazine band tube slot is identical to what was/is used by Winchester and most other lever manufacturers.  It is not a straight dovetail.  It is a special "rotary" type cut that requires the magazine band (bearing) to be turned out by  twisting 90 degrees.  Driving the band out like you would a sight will damage the barrel and band. A good gunsmith should have the tool to properly recut the slot.

[Dirty Brass]

Thanks Grizzly Adams - I was not aware that this type of slot was used on the originals. I have dropped the tubes on my 1876 rifles and 1866 rifles to redo the wood, so taking them of isn't a problem. I'll check around and see who can do the slot or if there is a cutter avaialble to do it, as I have a smaller milling machine available here. It is a very slightly used gun, so that helped bring the price down some - should have it by weeks end, so I'll know more when I see it first hand. Thanks for the info!

brass....

[Marshal Deadwood]

I shoot a '73 with a 30" barrel. I wouldn't necessarly think its a 'bad' thing. While it might be a tad 'heavier',,that works to my advantage...it swings smoother , stays,,or,,moves 'off' the targets 'less'...and has a longer 'sight plane'....those factors,,would prompt me to go 30" again if I ever got another. But, I'm werid, I even like the full size revolvers with 7 1/2 and 8 " barrels,,,tad slower on the draw,,but so much more consistent in getting back on target.

MD

[Pettifogger]

Thanks Grizzly Adams - I was not aware that this type of slot was used on the originals. I have dropped the tubes on my 1876 rifles and 1866 rifles to redo the wood, so taking them of isn't a problem. I'll check around and see who can do the slot or if there is a cutter avaialble to do it, as I have a smaller milling machine available here. It is a very slightly used gun, so that helped bring the price down some - should have it by weeks end, so I'll know more when I see it first hand. Thanks for the info!

brass....

Actually, I thought the same thing until I looked at it.  You can use a regular dovetail cutter.  The center of the cut is made left to right with a regular straight end mill cutter and then a dovetail cutter of the proper diameter is centered in the cut and moved fore and aft.  Shortened several of mine and it worked fine.

[Dirty Brass]

Thanks for the headsup - I'll look at it closer when I take it apart. I can handle that kind of cutting here....

30" barrel scares me. I have a 28" 45/75 model 1876 - that is more than enough barrel for me to swing and hold on target with. It balances nice, but heavy is heavy

[John Taylor]

brassmagnet, The proper size dovetail cutter is 3/4" but this will sometimes leave the edges a little oversize. The last time I sharpened mine it came out to .720" which works great, run all the way through after using a standard 5/8" end mill, go back to center of barrel and move .065" both directions. Always turn in a clockwise direction when installing mag tube ring. Winchesters standard distance from muzzle is 3.750" to the center of dovetail, give or take 1/16".  I charge $30 for cutting this dovetail, $15 for sight dovetails. For the model 90, 06, 61 and 62 use a 9/16" dovetail cutter. I believe all the other Winchesters use the larger dovetail.

[Grizzly Adams]

Welcome to the fire, John Taylor.

[Dirty Brass]

I had some time, and got up the nerve to lopp off 6" of the 30" bbl., and gave it a go at recutting both slots. End mill and some small machinists files I inherited years ago made it a pretty easy job, and but for a slightly oversized tube retaining ring slot, all turned out quite well. Fit is tight on both slots, and I'm happy with a lighter shorter 1873 Win. Here's a before/after picture - I redid the stain on the stock too - slightly darker and redder.....you can click on thumbnail to get a larger view.....

[Grizzly Adams]

Nice job, brassmagnet!  Really an improvement - IMHO!

[Dirty Brass]

Thanks Grizzly - I think I like it a lot better this way too!

Change that - I know I do!!