Reforming 50 Alaskan to 45/75

[Grizzly Adams]

Just to be sure I understand the fire forming process with .348 - if I'm only going to load and shoot black then its adequate to just load a full case of FFg with the bullet I intend to shoot normally and fire away?

Understanding that it may take several firings to get the true shape and only then should I trim the case to 1.89.

Thanks again Hobie, for your work on 45/75 info!!

Icebox

Yep!  That's how it's done!   Fill the case with enough FFg to provide a moderately compressed load, and seat your bullet.

[Dirty Brass]

Brassmagnet--

You might try annealing a couple cases and see if that helps eliminate the wrinkles when forming.  Also, a couple of your dents (but not all of them) look like they might be caused by too much lube. 

Finally, instead of a single trip into the forming die, you might try forming partway, then raising the handle, rotating the case a quarter turn or so, and then forming some more.  This has helped me in forming bottleneck cases out of straight ones where I was experiencing that kind of dent.

--DJ

I'll try heating a few up and see if that helps. I did do as you suggested, going part way and turning the cases before doing a full reform. I think it may be too much lube - I got real liberal because they were really hard to press into the die. I'll try some more in a day or so,and see how that goes. Thanks for the replies fella's.

[Dirty Brass]

Looks like all they needed was a little heat. I cut back on the lube, but they were still wayyyy hard to press through the die, so I took the advice and heated them up slightly - not enough to turn colors or anything. After that, they went through fairly easy going slow in steps. All 40 came out perfect, so I'll cut down the rest and do em'. Thanks to everyone for the assistance!

[Dirty Brass]

I received some reformed brass from a vendor and it was all annealed at the case mouth. Is this necessary with these cases? How about the reformed .348 cases? Both are 45/75 caliber.

[Hobie]

As I've said before I rough trim, form then semi-finish trim my cases before annealing.  I then open up the case mouth for the lead bullet and load.  I had 3 of 5 split when I didn't anneal.  I'd say it is necessary.  I just hold the case by the rim and play the torch flame around the neck until the case is too hot to hold and drop it into a  bucket of water.  Too hot to hold doesn't mean I'm burning my fingers.  Works a treat and no more longitudinal splits.

[Dirty Brass]

Anneal it is then

Thanks!

[Hobie]

So, how'd it go for you?   

[Dirty Brass]

The .348 stuff I had annealed just to open it up, so it loaded fine. The alaskan stuff I tried the way it was, without annealing, since I had a lot of it primed already. It all loaded pretty well, with no splits. Some stretched a little to one side, off center slightly, with the bullet inserted, but should shoot OK. If they show any splitting after shooting, I'll warm the survivors up then, but for now all are loaded and I will shoot a box or two on June 4th. Tried loadings in Pyrodex RS and Triple Seven FFG. I have some 5744, so I may load up some 300 grain bullets just for fire forming the other .348 brass I haven't loaded yet, but that will be after I get back. I prefer to stay away from smokeless though....

[Hobie]

Mine didn't split until shot.  High rate of longitudinal splits then. 

[Dirty Brass]

Mine didn't split until shot.  High rate of longitudinal splits then. 

Well....looks like I learn the hard way too then Hobie. Like I said, they were all primed already, and I didn't want to mess with primed cases and a torch. I'm not known for being "lucky"

[Hobie]

No, that wouldn't be the wisest of choices, would it?