SPG Question

Started by Eric F, March 26, 2008, 02:46:59 PM

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Eric F

So how do you use it? Melt it form a sheet cool it then press lube cookies out?  Or is there a diffrent way?

hellgate

It comes in a hollow cylinder to go inside the lubrisizer or in block form. I don't know their website but there are various shapes and quantities available.
"Frontiersman: the only category where you can shoot your wad and play with your balls while tweeking the nipples on a pair of 44s." Canada Bill

Since I have 14+ guns, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of Cap&Ball. Now, that's a COMPLIMENT!

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Fox Creek Kid

Just my 2 cents. SPG is great for long range BPCR when controlling fouling is critical and can mean a missed hit. For CAS it's too expensive. Go to the "Dark Arts" section posted at the top of this forum and there are countless BP lube recipes you can make for less than $10.00 that will lube THOUSANDS of bullets for CAS style shooting.  ;)

Hell-Er High Water

FCK is absolutly correct regarding SPG and BPCR long range shooting vs CAS shooting.  I save the SPG for the long range competition and use a homemade lube (Dick Dasterdly's Pearl Lube) for CAS BP shooting.

Several years ago there was an article in "The Fouling Shot" (the publication of The Cast Bullet Association) about making a simple mould for casting hollow sticks of bullet lube to fit in the Lyman or RCBS lube/sizers.  The following is what I made, it works great and costs practically nothing.

1", schedule 40, PVC water pipe has the correct ID for the OD of the lube sticks.  Flatten the outside end of a 1", PVC cap so that it will sit flat on a piece of 1 x 2 wooden board and not rock back & forth.  Screw the cap to the board from the inside but leave the center part of the cap clear.  Drill a 3/8" dia hole through the center of the cap and part way into the board.  A 5" long piece of pipe is long enough to make a lube stick and still have space left over.  Lightly sand a taper on one end of the 5" long piece of pipe so that is slips in and out of the cap easily.  Holding the cap and board assembly in a vise or clamped to a bench insert the piece of pipe.  Now insert a 3/8" piece of tube or rod down through the center of the pipe and into the 3/8" hole that you drilled through the cap.  I used a piece of 3/8" tube 9" long because this is what I had on hand.  You now have a mould with a removable center core.

Melt the lube in a double boiler arrangement so as not to burn or scorch it (this holds true for any type of lube that you may be using) and pour it in the mould.  After it hardens remove the pipe, the center core rod and the lube stick from the cap all together in one piece.  Press the lube stick out of the mould and off of the center core with a washer that just fits inside the pipe and over the core pin.

I cut the sticks to length and wrap them in wax paper for storage to keep them clean.  The ends that you cut off can be used to refill a partially empty lube reservoir or remelted for future sticks.

I made my mould with two assemblies but you can make it up with just one mould or as many as you want.

The other choice is to just pour the melted lube directly into the lube reservoir but this is just a one shot deal and must be redone each time the reservoir is empty and then you have to wait for it to cool.

Give it a try.  It takes longer to describe it than it does to actually do it.

HHW

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