Which is the better Large-Frame Model 3 to buy?

[Zip Wyatt]

This is more of a collectors question although I hope to shoot BP through whatever I buy at least once in a while -

I'm trying to decide between two New Model 3s in 44-40 (extremely rare caliber) - finish is good on both (most of the nickel gone but with a gray patina) except as noted below.

First, there is one has all the markings on the barrel, serial numbers, etc. but needs help mechanically - (this can be fixed for a price) also there is a one inch area of pitting on the barrel. 

Or the second one, that is perfect mechanically, and has all the serial numbers but has had the barrel markings worn off?

The prices are comparable but I wonder how important those barrel markings are for a collectable gun when the gun is this rare?

Thanks!

John

[Trailrider]

Howdy, Pard,

All things considered, the "true collectors" put a lot of stock in finish condition.  If the mechanical repairs can be made reasonably economically, without showing externally, and the prices are similar, I would go for the one with the better external condition.

NOTE:  I would NOT attempt to shoot either of these guns, except perhaps with black powder ONLY.  Even then, I would LIMIT the amount of shooting.  I saw a very nice .44-40 New Model #3 blown by a shooter who was using smokeless loads from a "remanufacturer" (whatever that means!!!).  The first two shots landed about 10 yds downrange.  The third blew the gun, splitting the cylinder VERTICALLY, bending the topstrap, and tearing out the forcing cone at the six o'clock position.  Unfortunately, the shooter refused to allow me to examine the remaining ammo.  I SUSPECT the loads were so light that the bullet jumped out of the case, stuck in the forcing cone, resulting in the remaining smoldering powder igniting.  But without being able to examine the ammo, there's no way to know!     This occurred about 15 years ago.

Ride careful, Pard!