question about muzzle loader rifle

SFT · February 17, 2008, 09:40:28 AM

Maybe off topic but I'd like to know if, for my .54 cal cap lock ML, I should get the .535 diameter lead ball instead of the .530 that I have already, or get thicker patches due to the looseness of the .530 w/ patch? Right now the .530 ball and thin patch will nearly slide down the bore without any force, so do I get thicker patches, go to the .535 and thin patches or just stick with sabots? It has a 1:60 twist.

Charlie Bowdre · February 17, 2008, 10:03:18 AM

Not sure what type or thickness of patch you have now . But any adjustments I made in the day , I would start out with same type material , lube and your .530 ball only change I'd make would be in the thickness of material . Up the thickness and run a string of at lest 3-5 shots . See if that makes a difference . Going to a bigger ball might be the final answer but I'd try the patch first . If your present load is 'slipping down the bbl" I might suggest it is a bit on the light side .

Now for the kicker . ....the comments are my opinion only , works for me but hay gives ya a chance to do more shooting PLUS an excuse that ' I'm not sure where this is hitting ,so I'm working up a load"

As always have fun .

dutchie

Fox Creek Kid · February 17, 2008, 10:30:58 AM

It depends on the thickness of the patch. I always used 0.020" patches. I had to hammer them in with a ball starter but they gave the best accuracy. Also, your 1 in 60 barrel twist is NOT for sabots. It is for patched round ball.

Singing Bear · February 17, 2008, 11:58:10 AM

Quote from: SFT on February 17, 2008, 09:40:28 AM
Maybe off topic but I'd like to know if, for my .54 cal cap lock ML, I should get the .535 diameter lead ball instead of the .530 that I have already, or get thicker patches due to the looseness of the .530 w/ patch? Right now the .530 ball and thin patch will nearly slide down the bore without any force, so do I get thicker patches, go to the .535 and thin patches or just stick with sabots? It has a 1:60 twist.

Yup, twist is way too slow for sabots. Stick to round ball.
I ain't technical about muzzleloaders, but use what you got. Try doubling up the patches. If you rather use thicker stuff, try the pillow ticking at your local Walmart. So long as that ball gets down range and rings that gong at a hundred yards, I be happy.

Dusty Morningwood · February 17, 2008, 12:34:13 PM

I shoot a .530 ball with a lubed pillow ticking patch. Fits snug, but still slides down bore w/o pounding it. Patches come out looking like they should: a nice, black asterix with no tears or burn through.

sundance44`s · February 18, 2008, 02:22:42 PM

I`ve got a 54 cal Hawken I`ve just went to .535 balls with , like yours it was loading loose and shooting like a smooth bore to boot ..I was already useing .018 patches pillow ticking ...so I stayed with my patch choice ..and started casting the .535 balls ..my groups tightened up and life is grand again ...I beleive there are a few places to buy the .535 balls ...you might check with Track of the wolf . for them , if you don`t know where to buy some .

Yellowhouse Sam · February 18, 2008, 05:57:40 PM

Depends a little bit on what you're shooting, game or targets. You can place a ball on a square of known size ticking and short start it. Use enough material so that you can yank it back out and inspect both the ball and the patch. Oh, and lube the ticking too if you use this technique!!! The one that goes in with just a couple of hard raps with the heel of your hand generally is the correct size. I buy my ticking in sq yard size from Track of the Wolf and use a patch cutter.

If its that loose sounds like a .535 ball is in order. But you'll have to test it. Take both ball sizes and .012, .015, and .018 patches to the range. Shoot off a solid bench and it'll tell you what you need to know....that and the recovered patch.

My .50 cal target load is a .498 ball and a very tight fitting .018 patch will cloverleaf at 50 yards...or it did when I had better eyes to see those very fine open sights. However, a .495 ball with the same patch thickness is almost as good and loads easier and that is my first-shot load for hunting. Speed loaders use a .490 ball and a .015 or .018 patch. I don't desire a hard seating load for a follow up shot nor extreme accuracy. Make or buy you a good stainless range rod for cleaning and that first load. Then, make you a tempered hickory hunting rod that extends about 3-4 inches beyond the muzzle. That gives you something to hang onto for pulling loads and swabbing the barrel in the field.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · February 18, 2008, 08:53:43 PM

If I want to get a good conversation going with a lady, I go to the fabric store with my micrometer. I get a lot of attention, followed by an amazing amount of cooperation.

My Pedersoli Mortimer takes a .532 ball (.530 mould with wheel-weight metal) and .011 or .012 thick patches. If I use a .530 ball, that translates to at least .013 to .014 patch thickness.

As was suggested above, try your existing balls with a variety of patch material. I even salvage old clothes. Old work shirts (100% cotton) are about .011 to .15. Old Jeans are about .030. These last are useful in a 12 ga. Muzzle loading shotgun with .690 roundball.

You will need a micrometer or at least a good digital caliper.

Yellowhouse Sam · February 19, 2008, 07:50:40 AM

For starters, I'd suggest you get patching or patches of known thickness for your testing. Pillow ticking from Wally World, old shirts and jeans will vary all over the place depending on where you cut. You can measure in one spot on the pillow tick, move a foot or so away and it may be quite different.

Sir Charles deMouton-Black · February 20, 2008, 06:43:46 PM

I agree that old jeans can wear unevenly. Shirt material That I have measured seems to be more uniform from place to place. Each shirt seems to vary from the next, giving a good choice.

My suggestion was more directed to finding some patch material quickly that can be precisely measured for testing before you have to buy it by the yard.