Big Lube Bulletin.......

[Howdy Doody]

Hey DD,

Great job on the latest bulletin....   How about some articles on keepin those Lee molds fine tuned?   That would really be of interest to me and the Dusty Trailrider.


Cohagen

I have used Lee Molds since I got into casting about 5 years ago. I had trouble with the first mold I had gotten which was their .358 mold for using tumble lube. I mentioned that to a knowledgable pard and he turned me on to a trick for new Lee molds. It does take some initial effort, but the results are great.
You cast until you can get some of the best looking bullets to drop from the mold and stop. Let all cool down and take about 4 of the bullets if you are using a 6 gand mold like the Big Lubes are. Then drill a hole into the base of those bullets with a 1/8" bit about 1/4" deep and then screw in sheet metal screws, either kind will work, but phillips headed ones work better.
Then with the mold cool you wet the bullets with water and tap a good amount of Comet cleaner onto the bullet and clamp in the mold and with a power drill with screw driver attachment you turn the bullet slowly in the mold while holding it closed. It is hard at first and then the bullet turns easier. Open mold and you do the same with the next hole, using the same bullet for a couple holes and then switch to another bullet that you set up. After you have got the bullets where they spin easily in the mold, wash the mold and let dry. What this has done is polish the tool marks and with just a little smoke from a match go back to casting. The bullets just fall out and look much better to boot.
Other things to do are more normal, like puttin never sieze on the mold pins and even staking the handle retaining screws so that they don't back out and bother you when you push or pull across the bar or plate the mold rides on if you use a bottom pour pot.
I even got a big lube Mav mold that had been outside and corroded and using this method, I was able to salvage the mold and it drops nice bullets now.
Another thing I don't do, but some do, is polish the underside of the sprue cutter with real fine sandpaper on a perfectly flat surface to true it up.
Anyone have any other tips, I am always ready to try shortcuts or tricks from other casters.

[Springfield Slim]

I always stake the mould alignment pins in place from the git go. They're gonna loosen up sooner or later anyway, and I don't need that happening right in the middle of a big casting session. I don't like the anti seize much, just gums up everything. The best thing going is Bull Plate lube, from the Bullshop up in Alaska. Go to www.castboolits.gunloads.com and get some. It lubes the pins, pivots and keeps molten lead from sticking to the sprue plate and mould. Best of all it doesn't build up a residue like most everything else. Or you can e-mail them at bullshop@wildak.net. The next thing I usually have to do is either set screw the sprue pivot or just replace it with a bolt and locknut. They will usually loosen with use, some sooner than others.

[Dick Dastardly]

Here's one I learned.  Take a good carpenters pencil and go all around the parting line on both blocks.  The pencil will take off the very slight burr and the parting line will become nearly invisible.

Also, I lube my pins with some old alox bullet lube that ain't no good for black powder anyhow.  It works good and don't seem to build up like petroleum stuff.

Don't over tighten he sprue bolt.  It's got a wave washer under it for good reason.  If ya get lead smeared on the backside of the sprue plate or on the mold blocks, let them cool a mite and take the smeared lead off with a good hardwood scraper.  I make mine out of maple.  If lead is smearing, yer cuttin' the sprue too soon.  Take a few more seconds and have a more harmonious outcome.

DD-DLoS