Possible to strip and rework leather?

[Athena Jake]

Is it possible to rework off the shelf innexpensive holsters?

Looking to shorten them to match my revolvers, strip the finish, stamp it with a fish scale pattern, redye them black, and either simply stitch the toe closed or put a toe plug in though just to learn how to do that.

BTW any suggestions on the tools for the fishscale pattern as seen on holsters from El Paso Saddlery?

Now why all the work and effort?
I have these items on hand, need to learn to sew leather, and to try my hand at the fishscale pattern.
(If it is possible to do the stripping of the leather so it can be cased for stamping.)

I have purchased a set of Mr. Ghormley's directons for cartridge belts and for the 49er holsters.
And eventually plan to make a set of holsters and such.  Currently have cobbled belts and parts together to make a rig that holds two revolver sliders, a shotshell slider and the holsters.  The revolver sliders I used Mr. Ghormley's cartridge belt loop directions to lay out the holes and such, made them from scraps of leather I have.
Making things from leather it fairly easy the tricky part is making them look more then plain leather, which is good too.

[Pitspitr]

You can use acetone to take the finish off leather, Don't know how it would be to tool after that.

To make the fish scale pattern use a veiner.

[St. George]

You 'can' strip finish and excess oil, and reading through these posts will give you some ideas.

I've used gasoline to do that job in the past - having used it successfully when stripping old Kiwi from my Jump Boots - but I can't recommend it without first saying you do this stuff 'outside' - preferably with a breeze, and zo open flames, anywhere.

As to shortening them - you can do that, as well - but look hard at the way you'll continue any decorative edging before you begin, since it's a critical element of the decoration.

'Real' Old West holsters were generally for 5 1/2" and 7 1/2" revolvers - the shorter barrelled 4 3/4" Colts fit those 5 1/2" hulls just fine.

The type of holsters you describe are of 'lesser' leather, so don't expect a lot from them after you've stripped the finish - but as they are - you can re-stamp them and expect a goodly amount of success.

Go to - www.tandyleather.com - you should be able to find needed stamping tools there.

I had a 'Classic Old West Styles' Slim Jim crossdraw that was both well-made and handy, as it fit pretty much anything - and I liked it - but I liked it a helluva lot more when I covered that maker's mark with a nice nickel-over-brass concho that was about the size of a silver dollar, atop a leather disk.

The flat, tapered, rawhide thong and concho put that holster into a different level of usability and authenticity.

Good Luck!

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Athena Jake]

Thank you both, Pitspitr and St. George,

I had been poking about on the internet also looking for this information.
One Motorcycle area mentions using lighter fluid (naphtha) to remove the finish.
I do think I will shy away somewhat from the acetone, I absorbed enough of that while my services were "enlisted" to maintain ordinance.

But judging from the chemical choices put forth so far I see some pretty strong stuff can be applied, so that is a relief.

The revolvers will be of the 5 1/2 inch variety in a C. Mason Converted Colt.
And I had planned to fit a Morgan dollar concho over the strap across the holster when finished, should fit just right.

Pitspitr, I had been looking at the veiners figuring those were the ticket for fishscaling, thank you for the confirmation.  Will have to mosey over to the Tandy store and have a look at them up close, I see a whole lot better with my hands than my eyes!

[Dalton Masterson]

The Camofluage stamps work well for fish scales too, maybe C431 or thereabouts. Good luck and post pics when you are done! DM

[Athena Jake]

What have we learned so far?
Fish scales like the El Paso Saddlery holster are done with Camouflage stamps not veiners -- see previous posts   Figured that out after playing with stamps rather than just looking at them in pictures – Then going BACK to El Paso's site and looking at their work.

And after playing with stamps, laying out patterns in a piece of clay, scales are not where I want to go now.  Probably end up with a border treatment.  Not from the amount of work, just the scales made this holster look to "busy".

Acetone and gasoline are good choices for stripping out the leathers.
If you don't think so get some of the Fiebing's Deglazer (it comes in a glass bottle - it must be good!) I think gasoline and acetone might be gentler!  Ok here I re-invented the wheel, starting out with alcohol and water (50/50) as suggested on a motorcycle leather working forum.  Not bad, it does strip some oils and crud out of the leather enough to get a mark into it.

Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye is really good (I read that in this group and listened!)

A piece of advice I learned years ago --  anything that can cut, stain or alter leather will and does do the same thing to your skin! 

When done I do not know that the detail will be as good as if I had started with a piece of untreated hide, but I can say it is good practice, and I am glad I am not mucking up a nice skin while learning!

[Dalton Masterson]

You have a lot of good ideas and suggestions you have learned in a short while. I used the Camo stamp for my scales, and havent seen the El Paso version.
I like the clay layout idea. Just make sure you get all the clay off of your stamp! My mom borrowed some of my stamps for her Art class and I got them back with little unseen bits in the hidden parts. Noticeable on leather tho. DM

[Athena Jake]

Good luck and post pics when you are done! DM

OK, here goes, the picture is not the best glamour shot, but it is what I could get.  Yes it is a civil war belt attached to a 3 1/2 inch wide leather belt with Morgan head screw back conchos.  Well what used to be a belt, before it became a comfort item.  The width does make the whole rig very comfortable.  The ends are the wreath and eagle spoon buckle.  My wife and I are on a weight loss program so the belt is going to ahve lots of holes and changes, figured it was better to work with something less expensive than to buy a belt that won't fit in a year.  All in all with tools, chemicals, parts, and not counting a few things I had laying around I ahve spent about $120 US on this.

[Dalton Masterson]

Hey, that looks pretty good!! You had better success than I have had on reworking old leather. Heck thats better than some of my new leather projects. Congrats. DM