barrel wedge stuck

[mike1952]

This is my first reproduction revolver and the first time trying to disassemble it.  I can't seem to get the wedge to move.  I dont want to whack it too hard.  Any help would be appreciated.  BTW it is a Uberti  1871 OT. 

[Pettifogger]

If you are talking about an Open Top or other cartridge conversion, don't whack it!  The little screw over the wedge is flat on one side.  Make sure the flat part is facing down and the wedge should come out easily.  If the wedge is stuck, take the screw completely out and then smack it with a plastic or brass mallet.  If you whack it with the screw in, it has a nasty habit of partially rotating and then you will ruin the screw.  If the  screw is tight and doesn't seem like it wants to come out, very gently tap the wedge inward just a tad so it isn't bearing on the screw and it should come right out.

[Deadeye Don]

I would also suggest spraying some WD40 on  the wedge pin and letting it sit for a few hours.  Then take a mallet and wack the pin from the side of the barrel opposite where the wedge pin screw is at.  I find that using a long piece of plastic works well to put right on the wedge pin.  I actually use one of my plastic cleaning patch holders to do this.  Once you get it out make sure you lubricate the wedge pin before you put it back in.  That will make getting it out again much easier.

[Flint]

Before lubricating and whacking the wedge, do as Pettifogger said and turn the screw to the flat or remove it, if you don't, you will break the screw head.  The OT wedge is much different than the cap & ball wedge, it has no spring, but has a cut the screw head dips into when tightened.  It also has a rounded edge as does the slot in the arbor pin.  A cap & ball wedge won't work, and is not hard enough either.  The OT wedge is much harder steel.

Proper wedge position when reassembling is to drive the wedge in until the screw can be turned into the wedge's cut, then drift the wedge back against the screw head until contact.  That will set up the endshake and headspace properly for cartridge head clearance without binding the cylinder.  The barrel/cylinder gap is greater than the gas-ring/barrel gap and cannot be closed to binding before the gas-ring does.

If the wedge is too loose, you can have misfires due to exessive headspace, if too tight, the cylinder will bind on the gas-ring.

Just remember what gun you have in your hands before you smack the wedge and break something.

Go to VTIgunparts.com and buy some spare OT wedges and screws.

If you choose to shoot black powder cartridges, the gas-ring will keep the fouling off the arbor so efficiently that you can shoot a whole match without fouling to a stop.  Though its real purpose is to set the proper headspace and endshake, its function as a fouling reducer is an added benefit.

[Deadeye Don]

I have also found that a big mistake made with the open tops is pushing the wedge pin in too far when reassembling.  It barely peeks out the other side when it is seated right.  Pushing it in too far will only bind up your cylinder.

[mike1952]

Thanks for all the help.  I did get it out following your adivse and yes you can put it back in to far.   According to the instructions it sounded like all you needed was finger pressure so I was hesitant to whack it until I heard form more experienced OT shooters.  This gun is fun.  I am shooting about 3.6 grains of Trailboss and a 125 cast rnfp.  I want to learn to reload BP and work some of those up soon.

[Deadeye Don]

Glad to hear that Mike.  You now have one of the finest, straight shooting, naturally pointing revolvers ever made.  Enjoy it. Regards.   Deadeye.