Cap & Ball forcing cone

[Capt. Augustus]

I'm going to be working on a pair of Remingtons soon, I'm considering cutting a forcing cone on them, since I have the Brownell's unit.  I was wondering if the 11 degree forcing cone would be right.  Anyone out there tried this?

[Pettifogger]

I wouldn't put an 11 degree forcing cone on a C&B unless you are only going to shoot conicals.  You want the bullet to leave the cylinder and engage the cone at the back of the barrel as quickly as possible so the bore seals and you don't get gas blow-by.  With an 11 degree cone and a round ball the bullet can be in the air after it leaves the front of the cylinder (remember it is round so it doesn't have to be completely beyond the end of the cylinder to be clear of the cylinder) but before it engages the forcing cone.  Before you mess with your Remington, I'd shoot it first.  Very seldom will you find a Remmie that isn't plenty accurate out of the box.  Put your tuning efforts into smoothing the action.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy!

I have an OLD Pietta, at least 20 yrs. old - made back when Pietta had a well-earned reputation for spotty - if not shoddy - workmanship.  I won't go into details, but essentially, it was A) a bargain and, B) a 44 cal. paperweight.  The opinion I have NOW is that Allesandreo Pietta, a SASS member, has pulled up the company by the short hairs and they now provide an excellent product.

Anyhoo, there is (virtually) NO forcing cone.  And all along its' ONE saving grace was that it shot very well. (It had major mechanical foul-ups, but it shoots!)

Here's a picture of my "improved" Pietta NMA, (on the right  ) with my (nearly matching) 1875s.


I haven't touched the forcing cone ('tho I WAS planning on it - until I shot it after I had completed rebuilding it/cutting the barrel) as I've heard what Pettifogger mentions about the forcing cone.  Also, I firmly believe in the "If It Ain't Broke ... Don't Fix It"  theory of Life. 

Ride easy!

[Buffalow Red]

SAY HOW LOG IS THAT BALLEL ON TH REM C&B

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy B.Red!

The NMA C&B barrel is now about 6 1/8" long.  The 1875s have 7 1/2" barrels.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I have one that has been cut to 6" that I like shooting over my 5 1/2's. ±6" is a good length, that extra 1/2" does balance much better.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

I have one that has been cut to 6" that I like shooting over my 5 1/2's. ±6" is a good length, that extra 1/2" does balance much better.

I'm with ya, Marshal.  When I found I had to shorten the barrel due to a major factory boo-boo, I decided to keep as much barrel as possible.  That's why it's 6 and a bit inches long.  I cut off the muzzle right behind the loading lever post.  I'm partial to full-length barrels.  I've had all 4 general sizes and while I LUV my Sheriff's Model (length) Ruger 'cause it balances PURRR-FECKLY in my hand, I still tend to fall back on the full-length barrels, be they 7.5" or 8" or whatever.  Actually, I prefer the way which ever factory cuts them most.  For instance, the 1890 model Remingtons came (mostly, or nearly all - according to a piece by Phil Spangenberger, from G&A mag. of around 10-15 yrs. ago) with shorter, 5.25" barrels.

Here's the piece about the Remingtons:












This doesn't have much to do with forcing cones, save that most barrels of ANY length have one. 

[Marshal Will Wingam]

For instance, the 1890 model Remingtons came (mostly, or nearly all - according to a piece by Phil Spangenberger, from G&A mag. of around 10-15 yrs. ago) with shorter, 5.25" barrels.

I wasn't aware of this. I like that kind of information, it helps me decide what way I will go with future purchases. Thanks for the article, I've saved the images and will print them out full-page to read.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Glad to help

[Flint]

An 18 degree forcing cone would do for a roundball.  I have (so used) an 11 degree, but mine are converted to 45 Colt, so the 11 degree is more appropriate.  Particularly more appropriate in a 36 converted to 38 Special using 148gr hollow base wad cutters.

Older Piettas, as mentioned, had virtually no forcing cone at all, and for a soft, pure lead ball, it was maybe tolerable, but not when converted to cartridge, so I cut a forcing cone into them.  Be careful, as the Pietta barrels, particularly, are fairly soft steel, and cut very fast, watch your progress closely.

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

I shortened my Pietta NMA to 6 3/4" like one pictured in McDowell.  I didn't have to do anything to the rammer assembly.  Feels great!

[Montana Slim]

All the C&B pistols I've cut 11 deg forcing cones in gave better accuracy after the procedure (20+)....Pietta's especially so.
YMMV and best of luck,

Slim

[hellgate]

I've had older (pre-improved quality) SS Pietta Remingtons that had such poor chamber to bore alignment that the cylinder would jump out of the bolt stop and freeze up when fired. The only thing that "cured" it was to ream the forcing cone so when the ball came through it didn't slam the edge of the barrel and lurch the cylinder out of battery.

[Cimarron Lawman]

Be careful, as the Pietta barrels, particularly, are fairly soft steel, and cut very fast, watch your progress closely.

Have you found that Uberti and Euroarms barrels are harder?