1863 Pocket

[grymster2007]

While I was looking for my 1858 New Army, I came across the 1863 Remington Pocket and darned if that thing just aint cuter 'n a button! No bigger 'n lil tater bug! And looks like you can get a conversion cylinder for 32S&W for shootin' at the local indoor ranges. Now I would guess that some you would have one, or if you don't that would tell me something in itself.

Anything you want to tell me about these?

BTW: while reading a thread with purdy pitchures on TFL about 1860s, decided I probably need one of them too. What's going on here? Couple of posts and now I'm some kind of monster! Good thing the little woman sees things a bit differently than I do. Probably just blow all of my savings and retirement money on guns!

[Dick Dastardly]

You mean like the lil guy in the middle of my brace of ROAs???  It's a lil spur trigger Remington with a Kirst Konverter .32 S&W cylinder.  Cute lil thing.  Just right to shoot under a gamblin' table and make the bad guy hurt real bad. . . .

DD-DLoS

[Halfway Creek Charlie]

I got mine! You got your's yet? (go with the steel frame version.) So you can get a conversion cylinder for it.

Mine on the other hand is an original Remy 1863 pocket Model sold as a 32 R.F. Conversion. All parts have the conversion number 15 on them, as well as the cylinder and recoil shield have their seperate S/N as the cylinders and recoil shields were also sold by Remington as a matched set to '63 pocket owners so they could convert to 32 R.F.. Mine has been converted to 32 Short Colt C.F.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

......
BTW: while reading a thread with purdy pitchures on TFL about 1860s, decided I probably need one of them too. What's going on here? Couple of posts and now I'm some kind of monster! Good thing the little woman sees things a bit differently than I do. Probably just blow all of my savings and retirement money on guns!

What a great way to spend all yer hard-earned retirement money! 

I'd only add to what has already been said 'bout soakin' yer brass ASAP if usin' APP.  'Course, that wouldn't hurt with ALL the BPs & subs, but APP is worst.  Iffn ya wanna keep yer brass as purdy as possible, don't LEAVE 'em ta soak for a long time - say, a week or so.  Wash 'em and get 'em dry as soon as practical.  I use BP, but I've several times left my brass soaking for extended periods and they turned all brown.  However, the ones I shot this last weekend, soaked for about 1 hour then washed then dried, came out of my vibratory tumbler lookin' like jewelry gold!  When I say "washed" it's like this: my soak solution is mostly water with a little soap added.  Detergent, dish soap, Simple Green, Murphy's etc. all work - mine happens to be Simple Green 'cause I got more of it.    I WASH it by shaking the sealed container vigorously a number of times - NOT in the dishwasher or washing machine - BUT I HAVE heard of that being done!   Then I drain off the gloppy liquid, leave it settle as much residue as possible and pour off the remaining solution.  Meanwhile, I rinse the brass about 3 or 4 times until the water is clean.  They get laid out and separated on a towel under my workroom ceiling fan and in a day or two (whenever I get a round tuit  ) then off to the tumbler they go.  IF I need them quicker, they'll dry OUTSIDE in about 2 hours in most weather - less if sunny.  (The other night it was about 65 deg. F and DARK - about 01:30 AM - and they were dry - inside and out - in 3 hours!)   I've never needed 'em quicker, but I've hear fellas who put their brass in the oven at about 150 - 200 deg. F, and they're dry in a half hour or so, without harming the brass.

Yep, them liddle '63s is right hansome fellers!  I'd also follow Charlie's advice about gettin' a steel framed one if yer gonna convert it to 32 S&W.  Now, if yer an authenticity oriented feller, ya gotta git the brass framed one or the nickel-plated brass framed ones 'cause they never really made a steel-frame that I know of.  Charlie's was made as a RIMFIRE conversion and then later to 32 Short Colt - which - I believe - is still easier on that original brass frame than a smokeyless 32 S&W ... 'SPECIALLY since ALL those rounds were BP then.  I SUPPOSE a feller could use a brass frame new gun and load up his 32 S&Ws with BP and be OK, but I wouldn't take that chance, seein' as how easy it'd be to accidentally slip in a factory round.  Lots of supposin' goin' on, here.   Jus' stick to brass frame and NO conversion iffn ya wanna be MOST authentic and steel frame if ya wanna convert it.   

Have fun - and if ya haven't dun it yet; BUY one of them purdy 1860s!  That design (1860 - 1861 - 1862 Colt) IMHO  is the BEST LOOKIN' handgun ever made. 

Yep!  I love my 1848, 1851 and my NMA - but my 1860 is purdiest.  (My Python comes close, 'tho.)

     Yer Mileage May Vary !     

[grymster2007]

For the 1863 authentic would be nice, but I was thinkin' steel so I could convert without a lot of worryin'. It's a good hour+ drive to the outdoor range I usually go to, but can get to either of the indoor ranges near me in about 20 minutes, so in this case I'll trade authenticity for practicality.

For the 1860s, at first, the lack of a top strap kinda bothered me and I always imagined the barrel flopping down 90 degrees each time ya lit it off. But have to admit, the design is growing on me.... and all the pichers sure aint helpin' my will power none.

So who needs to retire anyway?

[Halfway Creek Charlie]

Actually the 1863 Remy originally was steel framed.

The spur trigger guard was brass and also in steel (blued) depending upon whether or not the gun was plated. Mine has a blued hammer, Spur trigger, TG and rammer. the rest was Nickeled. Mine is made from a 1st model bbl(by S/N) and a 3rd model Frame(by S/N), all have matching conversion number 15, even the conversion cylinder and recoil shield have this number along with their own S/N as a matched set.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy!

Int'restin'!  The information that I saw said that the plated models were simply plated brass and the others were brass showing!

Thanks, 1/2 Chas.!