Smoothing out binding in a '58 cap gun some ?

[Marshal Deadwood]

I can get six round out of my '58 and then things seem to thicken up,,,fouling ....

the cylinder gap is rather small,,way small,,almost non-visible,,,enlarging this would I assume help 'some'

Is there any other tricks to keep a '58 rolling ?

Or, just have to drop the cylinder, wipe the face, wipe the forcing cone, drop of lube, and re-install for the next go-around ?

The Colts run smoother longer I find than the Remmie does,,but I do love the Remmie...

Marshal Deadwood

[Halfway Creek Charlie]

Use Olive oil and Bore Butter. Olive oil in the innards and the cylinder pin, and Bore Butter in the chamber mouths or for lube for the outside lubed bullets for conversions, That'll make the fouling slicker.

[hellgate]

I've done a couple of things to minimize fouling:
I lube the he!! out of everything with automotive grease (innards, back of the cylinder, cylinder pin and as an over ball lube. I also put a drop of Ballistol or olive oil on the front of the cylinder where it rubs on the frame and while holding the barrel up I jiggle & twirl the cylinder to work it down onto the cylinder pin. The oil drop goes on after charging the chambers & applying over ball grease between each stage. I also only shoot about 20 grs powder in the gun. I can go 2-3 stages with 20 gr charges and about 1 stage with 30 grs powder. Bore butter is fine (likely even better) but a pound of automotive grease is pretty cheap and the bore stays real clean as I use an under ball wad lubed with 50/50 olive oil & lard. That is for the Ubertis. My Euroarms will shoot all day and not foul out.

[Sunwapta Haze]

Lube, lube, and more lube.  That's what keeps my '58s and '75s running on the One True Powder. 

Big Lube bullets with a home brewed beeswax/crisco mixture in the cartridge loads and greased wads under the balls of the C&B.  The wads are home made from a double layer of upholstery cotton punched out of the fabric and soaked in melted beeswax/crisco lube. 

After clean up I always apply bore butter to the cylinder pin. 

Having said that however, I load my '58s with a loading stand and although I don't lubricate the arbor between stages the removal and re-insertion of the cylinder keeps the revolver running smoothly over the course of a 5 stage match.

Your milage may vary ...

[Marshal Tac]

Marshal,
I gots me a set of the forged frame Uberti's and they were SERIOUSLY tight in the cylinder gap department. I also noticed that they had some machine marks on the barrel face at the forcing cone. I used a set of polishing stones to smooth out the machine marks. I did not remove any measurable amount of metal, and did not change any angles. I simply polished out the machine marks. This made for some improvement.

The biggest single thing I learned about keeping my '58's running was that that cylinder pin has to be LUBED (to the point of being constantly wet/dripping). Since the Remmie cylinder does not have a shield protecting the cylinder pin, as the Colt's do, and the fact that the pin is almost directly below the cylinder gap, it gets a very hot jet of flame and gas with each shot, which in turn, deposits a large amount of fouling direcly onto the cylinder pin, as well as burns off alot of lube. This single problem is more likely to bind up your gun than any other, including a tight cylinder gap.

When I load, I remove the cylinder from the gun, use my powder flask/measure to charge the chambers and place a lubed wonder wad on top of the powder. I then lube the %*(# out of the cylinder pin and put the cylinder back into the gun. I then use the gun's rammer to seat a ball on each of the chambers. I then cap at the loading table and shoot. I have very little fouling related malfunctions. If I have a problem, it's usually related to poor cap seating or a dead cap.

Give it a try before you take a file to your barrel extention.... 

[Marshal Tac]

I forgot to mention my lube.... good ol' bore butter. In the winter (when it's thick) I use it straight from the tube. In the summer when it's 115 degrees in these parts and the lube is liquid, I pour it into a little needle oiler bottle and use it with that to get it where I want it without making a mess.