Converting Steel Frame Remington Pocket 1863 to 32 S&W Long

Started by blork, August 14, 2007, 09:59:04 AM

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blork

I have an idea of converting the Remington Pocket 31 cal. to 32 S&W Long

Reason for this is because 32 S&W Long is easier to come by than the 32 s&w.
Also the long cartridge is a little less fidly than the short plus it has a bit more power.

I already checked out that the cylinder is long enough to chamber it leavin roughly 2 mm for the backing plate.
(it is even long enough to chamber 32 H&R magnum but I think that's bit over the top for this revolver).

I don't have one yet (because I want to be sure I can convert it to this cartridge).

My questions are:

Can you make a cylinder which is capable of handling this round for this revolver and what type of steel do you need to use for it (if it is possible)?

Second can the frame and barrel of this revolver handle the round.

Marshal Will Wingam

The brass ones aren't strond enough but I've heard that the steel ones are. There was a cylinder available for them but each gun is so different that the cylinders needed to be fitted to each one. I believe R&D used to make it. They may be up to making one if you send them your pistol. I'm not sure which cartridge they did but you may want to call Kenny and ask him some questions about that.

http://www.randdgunshop.com/

SCORRS     SASS     BHR     STORM #446

blork

Yeah I already found conversion cylinders for it in 32 s&w but they don't feature a loading gate (which i prefer).

And since I am not living in the US shipping from there to me is impossible so I am stick to making my own.

Second the reason for me prefering to chamber the cylinder in 32 s&w long instead of the 32 s&w is availability of ammo.

Marshal Will Wingam

I'd just go with the 32 S&W cylinder that is already available. It's there and you don't need to mess around making something. There may be a good reason why the Longs aren't available. There may be a safety issue. You surely can't be intending to do thousands of rounds with this thing so if you can find a box of the 32 S&W's, they'll probably last a loooong time.

SCORRS     SASS     BHR     STORM #446

Delmonico

Mongrel Historian


Always get the water for the coffee upstream from the herd.

Ab Ovo Usque ad Mala

The time has passed so quick, the years all run together now.

blork

I am living in a country with quite strict gun laws.
32 s&w isn't available in gunshops here plus it has been discontinued a long time so a box of it equals a museum piece here.
second shipping of gun parts and ammo is prohibited plus I don't know any gunsmith here who can make me a cylinder for it.

So again i am stuck to my own machining.

I already found that the max chamber pressure of the 32 s&w long is 15 000 psi but I haven't found any data about the 32 s&w or the original black powder load of the revolver.
I also haven't found the right safety margin by which you need to multiply the pressure in order to get a safe cylinder.

I already figured out that the chamber walls will have a thickness off roughly 1.5 mm
So for a slice of chamber of 1 mm thickness (for ease of calculation) in the middle section of the chamber you get a force of 885.2 Newton in both directions pushing the chamber apart. The two walls on each side of the section must consequently toil a force of 442.6 N. So the area of steel which has to toil this force of 442.6 N is 1*1.5 mm large. So the steel used must be capable of 442.6/1.5 N/mm or something around 300 N/mm. This is the elastic limit of basic steel so basic steel can handle it but its the limit. There are steels who are capable of 1000 N/mm but my question is which is the safety margin i need to include for the cylinder in order to pick the right steel.

Also can the original frame and barrel handle it?
Or which type of steel and which thickness is used for the barrel?

65bsaA65

if you want to make a cylinder for .32 S&W long for this pistol, go right ahead.  I thaink you're gonna have to machine up a whole new cylinder. but thats okay.  I've been thinking along the same lines, let me know how yours goes; and I'll return the favor.

Halfway Creek Charlie

Can you get 32 Short Colt Ammo. My 1863 Remy Pocket model conversion shot 32 RF, now it shoots 32 Colt Shorts very well, after i converted the hammer to C.F.

SAS-76873
NCOWS-2955
SCORRS
STORM-243
WARTHOG

Shooting History (original), Remy NMA Conversions, 1863 New Model Pocket Model C.F. Conversion, Remy Model 1889 12Ga. Coach Gun
2nd. Gen. "C" Series Colt 1851 Navies
Centennial Arms/Centaur 1860 Armies
1860 Civilian Henry 45LC (soon to be 44 Henry Flat C.F.(Uberti)
Remingon Creedmore Rolling Block 45-70 (Pedersoli)

"Cut his ears off and send them to that Marshall in Sheridan" Prentice Ritter

Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity
.

Hell-Er High Water

THIS GUN HAS BEEN SOLD - NO FURTHER INQUIRIES PLEASE

If anyone is looking for a steel framed model, I have one available.  Like new in the box.

If interested, PM me.

HHW

Delmonico

Blork, just curious where you are in the world.  If where you are is so durn picky about letting ammo in, I would think converting a C&B to shoot any kind of catridge would bring the Federales, Gestapo, KGB or what ever you folks call them, down on you (if they found out) so fast you wouldn't know what hit you till they had you in irons and was somewhere that sunsine was unkown. ;)

Now I could be wrong, but my hunches are often right.
Mongrel Historian


Always get the water for the coffee upstream from the herd.

Ab Ovo Usque ad Mala

The time has passed so quick, the years all run together now.

65bsaA65

Blork, I might have gone a bit overboard advising you to convert your gun to .32 S&W long cartridges.  If I decide to risk my fingers and eyeballs; it's one thing.  For me to tell someone else, it's not okay!  The night I posted my answer to your question, me and the boys had been knocking back a few Mexican boilermakers; I tend to get ten feet tall and bullet-proof under those conditions.  Typical firewater affected redneck hillbilly biker.
My origianal intent was buy an R&D conversion cyl. and if the overall chamber length was compatible, bore it out and rechamber.  But since they no longer appear acquirable (due to too much disparity in the individual guns), I've shelved this project until I can buy a lathe.
If you're not a machinist with access to a good shop you are going to find making a cylinder from scratch a daunting prospect.
A good web site for comparing the two cartridges is AmmoGuide.com.
Good luck.

blork

I know a little about material strengths and how to calculate them.
I don't have a elaborate machine shop. (A cheap drill press at best and a bench rested dremmel tool which can sometimes do wonders) But I know someone with quite elaborate machining tools who owes me a favor  ;).
And even if he can't do it, there are still proffesional machinists who I can contact.

I ll probably make the cylinder of the highest strength steel available (roughly 3 times stronger than needed)
My main concern is the barrel and the bottom strap of the frame(which is very thin at one place).

Do you maybe have the minimal thickness of the barrel(at the cylinder gap) and the land and groove diameter of the barrel?

Then I can estimate the forces excerted on the frame and barrel.

French Jack

Blork:  if you stick with 4140 or 4150 steel, you should have no problems.  The frame is adequate with black powder pressure equivalent loads.  In fact, loading the 32 Long with Black Powder would solve the pressure problems.  The SAAMI pressure for smokeless loads is probably within the safety range for the frame, and the new cylinder, as it has a top strap.  I would take the prudent course and stick with black powder loadings, and you would be well within the limitations of the revolver and new cylinder.
French Jack

blork

Thanks French Jack for your reply

Hmm indeed I think I am gonna stick to the blackpowder equivalent of 32 s&w long.
The high pressure peak of smokeless powder is longer than that of blackpowder so the beginning of the barrel undergoes more stress with smokeless powder.

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