Edge burnishing on the lathe

[Flinch Morningwood]

Having seen a metal mandrel-mounted edge burnisher, I wondered if I could make something like that for my shop.

I took a peice of hardwood (actually, a peice of apple firewood) and turned it down to about 3" in diameter.  I then took various diameter round files and cut round-bottom grooves in the wood - a little deeper than half the diameter of the file.  I have a groove for 4/5 oz, 7/8, 9/10 and a "double-wide" for sewn edges.

Once I had it where I wanted it, I sanded the groove with a bit of 320 grit and put a light coat of beeswax on it (melted in by applying on a peice of canvas). 

Now, when I dampen the leather and run it through the groove, I get a pretty good and consistent edge burnish.  I have built a smaller version for my drill press - this one I use to get inside small corners.

Once the edge is burnished, I rub a cake of beeswax over the edge and run it through the the process again...seems to hold up pretty well, is flexible and smells good.

Just thought I'd throw that idea out there...

[Marshal Will Wingam]

That's a good way to burnish. I have one made from lignum vitae that chucks into my drill press or hand drill. It works fairly well.

[Slowhand Bob]

Sounds like a plan came together.  I've got a couple of the nylon models put out by Weaver, which I use with a battery powered drill when traveling (mostly show-off).  Its ok but would have been better with a steel shank for better rigidity.

[rickk]

I tried a nylon wheel chucked into an air drill. I realised that it is more the pressure, not the velocity that burnishes.

Having tried that, I went back to a hand guided nylon pulley and lots of Gum Tragacynth on my edges.

I have a whole pile of pulleys, each one color coded with some paint to match the dye color it is intended to be used with, so that they don't cross-contaminate with other colors. I do way more than just holster work, and use 6-7 dye colors at least. You won't want to mess up a job right near the end by re-coloring the edge with something wierd.

For instance, a white dye (really hard to do btw) wants to be no where near anything that has touched any other color on the planet. Nothing like edging a white job with purple edges 

[Brazos Jack]

Gosh, I gotta get with the program . . . . . I'm still using deer antler.

Not diggin' at'cha fellers. I've seen this done many different ways and they all work. It all comes down to what ya got on hand.

[Irish Dave]

While I occasionally stil burnish by hand, I have used wooden wheels similar to what Little Al described for a number of years. They are mounted on one end of what was once a bench grinder and with a light touch and some sealant (tragacanth, beeswax, etc), it does a fine job and quickly.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Gosh, I gotta get with the program . . . . . I'm still using deer antler.

I've never used antler, but a piece of lignum vitae works great, also. I'm going to have to try the antler one of these days. Do you polish the antler first?

[Brazos Jack]

No, I didn't polish it. By using the antler tine, it's naturaly smooth and its density can't be beat . . . . unless you're using moose antler.

The advantages is the ability to get into tight spots with it, such as a deep cut trigger gaurd on a holster or even the slots for the Mexican Loop. Once you touch up the edge of a seam, for example; you can rub it with the antler while it's stil wet with the oil dye. Then (if using Resolene, Tan-Kote, etc.,) you can give it another rub down imediatly after applying the Finish. This slicks it up nicely and is quick and simple.