Making of...Ejector Rod Housing Phase 2....

[Ottawa Creek Bill]

OK....This is what I got done today...

Bill

Pic #1, Turning ejector tube down to size..usually between .415/.425

Pic #2, roughing out ejector rod to just under 5/16", it will be finished reamed to 5/16"

Pic # 3 & 4 are out of sequence...sorry?? There is no pic # 5 ??

Pic # 4, Shows fit just after tube has been silver soldered to lug.

Pic #3, Shows tube and lug prior to soldering. There is a groove that has been milled into the lug where the tube sits & is soldered into, but unfortunately I didn't think to take a photo of it.

Pic # 6, shows ejector rod tube and lug after it has been soldered and milled down to almost final dimensions.

Pic # 7, shows the fit into the barrel.

The extra color photo shows the excess portion of the lug being milled away to just under where it is soldered to the tube. Sorry it's not in focus.

I hope this helps any of you that would like to make one of these. It is amazing if you consider the original assembly was machined out of one piece of stock, in a day and age when they didn't have cad/cam or automated machinery. They were really true craftmens.
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Click on the right mouse key to enlarge photo.



Tomorrow, I will mill the ejector head slot into the tube, fit the spring, ejector head and rod...and finally solder rhe ram to the bottom of the lug. Polish, blue it and the barrel and she'll be ready to shoot!!

[Crow Scout]

This is such helpful stuff, Bill.  Thanks a ton for posting it.   

[Flint]

Now I want to make (at least) one of these, but I retired and no longer have a mill and lathe at my disposal, unless I drive 600 miles to borrow them....

[Ottawa Creek Bill]

Flint,
You can do most of what I've done here with files, Dremel tool, and hand cut off saw (the type you see in auto body shops).

The whole purpose was to show that you could make one of these with items purchased at your local hardware.

In place of turning down the ejector tube from solid stock you could buy 1/2" seamless tubing with 3/8", or 5/16" inside diameter and then solder a 1/2" piece of quarter inch diameter tubing into one end (the end toward the cylinder).

The long narrow slot in the tube for the ejector head can be cut  very carefully with your Dremel Tool.

You can buy 1" squared stock 3/16" thick angle iron (steel) that will save you the mill work on squaring up the inside shoulder of the angle iron. These last two items can be purchased at a steel supply warehouse and very inexpensive.

Even the groove cut into the barrel to hold the ejector tube can be done with a Dremel, and the slot in the lug can be cut with a cut off saw.

Use good files made for metal work, a file card and chalk to keep them clean....

I've made two by hand and I much prefer using a lathe and mill...

Bill

[Flint]

Thanks, I may try it with some hand tools.  I may also try to find an x-y mill vise for my drill press.  I know a drill press quill isn't designed for side loads, but it will work if I'm gentle with it, and it's only occasionally abused that way.