Hand stitching

Started by harpman, March 23, 2007, 10:16:04 PM

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harpman

I had her all setup, two needles threaded, awl in hand, and started to make a hole through double 8/9 oz leather...That was real funny...I found the awl is a little sharper than a baseball bat, and even after sharpening, it was real funny...So I took it to the dremel.

Marshal Will Wingam

The shape is important. They should be diamond shaped, not round, with fairly sharp edges. I stone them to get the shape I want. It took some work to shape them in the first place, though. The point needs to be absolutely needle sharp. I also strop them now and then to clean the oils off, just like I do my leather knives. Many awls have a blunt or fat tapered tip, neither of which is worth a hoot. Once you have the shape, you're in business for a long time.

Here's the one I like. Scroll down to the Vergez Blanchard VB3.904 Straight Blade Stitching Awl. It takes some work on the taper, but the cross-section is good. I use a 38mm one for most work (two thicknesses of 8-9 oz leather) I also have one twice that long for thicker stuff.

Siegle of California

SCORRS     SASS     BHR     STORM #446

knucklehead

I use my dremel to poke the holes in the leather i am sewing.
just get a drill bit the same size as your sewing needle.

I got this idea from dusty johnson's videon on holster making.

I poke all the holes and then start sewing.

the dremel with drill bit sure makes poking holes faster.
I'M #330 DIRTY RAT.

Nolan Sackett

Just old fashioned I reckon but I just don't care for drilling holes (in fact at those rare times when I do, such as when the leather is several layers thick, I don't use a drill bit but rather a tapered and sharpened nail or something similar).
Here's a tutorial on sewing that I did a while back which may be of help.....http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html - one hint keep a ball of beeswax handy and stick your awl into it every three of four holes - it helps immensely.

As Marshall will stated a GOOD awl can make a big difference - and don't just sharpen it, polish it - every time I get new awl blade it gets a mirror polish - I use a slow speed buffer but you can do it by hand.....
aka Chuck Burrows
Frontier Knifemaker & Leather Smith

Parson McGrady

Wish I would have read this before I broke my awl.  ;)

I had sharpended it some and kept it waxed with candle wax, all we had in the house today. Made it through the first bit but the second piece to be stiched broke it. I'm wondering if it was too long; about 2" in the shart. I'm doing a belt so at most 3 layers of 9/10 lb.

Blessings,

Parson McGrady

Silver_Rings

I use a dremel when stiching thick leather but found the bits over heat when doing a lot of holes and break.  Found that using a finishing nail of the correct size and cutting the head off it. I could chuck it in the dremel and it worked great.

SR
Gunfighter, SASS 27466, NRA Life, GOFWG, BOSS, RO 1, RO 2

will ghormley

A well shaped, sharpened and polished awl will put the dremel to shame, unless you are going through four thicknesses of leather.  I don't glue my seams together before I sew, but I use a block of bee's wax to hold against the leather as I push the awl through.  This steadies the leather so you can more accurately guide your awl, and at the same time it waxes it like Sackett said.  A big plus is the awl goes into the bee's wax instead of your fingers.  It's hard to best the time-tested ways.
Will
"When Liberty is illegal, only the outlaws will be free."  Will Ghormley

"Exploit your strengths.  Compensate for your weaknesses."
Will Ghormley

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