Need good edge beveler

Started by dbrown3, January 03, 2008, 10:30:13 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

dbrown3

I bought an edge beveler from Tandy, #3 but I can't get a good edge.  The tool seems to mark the leather and the edge seems to pull and tear it.  Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong or does anyone have a good used edge bevel and a stitch groover that they could part with?  If so, please shoot me an email.  dsbrown@nts-online.net

crossdraw

I have read that you can get a clean cut if you dampen the leather before beveling it. I haven't tried this yet so I can't tell you if it works. Try it on some scrap, it may help.
"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government." - George Washington

Springfield Slim

How thick of leather are we talking abut here?
Full time Mr. Mom and part time leatherworker and bullet caster

Marshal Will Wingam

Not only is thickness a concern, but what part of the hide is the leather from? I've had pieces from further down the side, close to the belly that wouldn't bevel for beans.

SCORRS     SASS     BHR     STORM #446

Slowhand Bob

I have many edgers from several sources and believe it or not an old set of Craft brand are amongst my favorites.  From the most expensive to the cheepist, they all need a bit of touch-up and the cheeper ones need the most.  The old set I speak of seems to be made from good steel and this is important.  Keep your edges really sharp,  beyond what most imagine and the lead-ins polished smooth.  Weaver makes a nice little edger sharpening/polishing setup that works well for hand sharpening. 

Just the slightest dampness may help, but its easy to over do on the porous edge, I have even used a touch of wax when nothing else seemed to work. (Got large loads of some really poor grain stuff a time or two)  A dollar to a dougnut that a bit of gum trag would work just as well but you would need to let it dry a few minutes.  One thing you may try that works when the leather is actin a bit eccentric, reverse your cut direction.  I have seen this make a huge difference on some leathers. 

I have not had the problem with the impressions, of which you speak, recently but I do remember the cause of my similar problem.  I was trying to cut the edge from to high of an angle and was getting impressions from the lead-in edge of the tool.  Deffinitely try different cutting angles as you work with some scrap to find where your tool cuts smoothest and this will vary greatly with different style edgers.  I like the Weaver edgers for working in tight corners but they cut best at a very different angle than does the Craft tool.

Judge Lead

Just a word of caution here. :-\

Virtually any edge tool you get for leather work will need work. They ALL benefit from a good sharpening. Edge bevellers are no exception. Get some 400-800 grit 'wet & dry' paper on a smooth surface and draw the beveller along it and then run it over your strop. Fold some of the paper and run it along the groove to clear any burr left from the sharpening phase.

A tool straight out of the shop will not give you the results you are looking without that little extra help. :P

Try it and see how it goes.

Regards  ;D
When we were younger, the days seemed to drag. As we get older, we wish they would.

Cutter Carl

Great advice in the previous posts.   Also check that you are holding the tool at the proper angle. 

I had a problem with a line appearing on the grain side.  Turns out I had the beveler tilted at about 55 -60 degrees instead of 45 degrees. 

The fix in my case was easy.  My workbench and stool that are perfect height for everything else put my arm and hand at a odd angle with the beveler.  Now when I bevel I just stand up for that operation.  Nice clean edge everytime.
 



NCOWS #3053
SASS #79783
Cracker Cow Cavalry - Florida's 1st NCOWS Posse
CCC - Marshall
Eagle Scout 1980

Ten Wolves Fiveshooter

Howdy Gents

           What Cutter Carl said is very true, angle is very important, also I was taught to take a piece of kite string,( or cotton like string), and tie it to something higher than where you are sitting , take the string and rub it down with jewlers rouge, and strop your beveler backwards in the groove, several times, this polishes and puts the edge back where it's supposed to be, I use this on all my bevelers, and it works like a dream, it's so simple and it works. I have my best results with a # 2 beveler, and # 3, for holster and gun belt work. Everything thats been said is true , as you can see there are lot of variables with edge bevelling. :o

                                                Ten Wolves  ;) :D ;D
NRA, SASS# 69595, NCOWS#3123 Leather Shop, RATTS# 369, SCORRS, BROW, ROWSS #40   Shoot Straight, Have Fun, That's What It's All About

dbrown3

Thanks forall the advise.  Looks like there is more to edging than I thought.  Angle and a sharp tool seem to be the key.  I am using 8oz leather

Delgado

Had the same problem. Did ya ever thought of using emery paper for the edges?  For me it works much better than any bevelling tool. The best thing is: You don´t have to worry about messing up a good piece. :D

Delgado

outrider

I think the answer here is to keep a very sharp edge on the beveler.  I usually put some jewels rouge on a piece of flat leather and draw the beveler  back until I get a mirror finish on the underside of the beveler.  works wonders.   I sharlen mine every time I use it. 
Outrider  (formerly "Dusty Dick" out of PA.)
SASS #2353
BOLD #895
Custom Leathersmith
Ocoee Rangers

Marshal Will Wingam

I'm with you on that, Outrider. I like the jeweler's rouge because it cleans off all the oils that cause drag, too.

SCORRS     SASS     BHR     STORM #446

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk
© 1995 - 2024 CAScity.com