Holster pattern question

[litl rooster]

Pards, I have a Rooooger Sheriff model I been using in a cross draw. They are heavier on the grip end,and tend(will) fall out of a holster. Fortunately it was unloaded and was only a stage DQ. I am thinking of making my own strong side for this one, mostly because I want to switch to duelist. However I want it secure and safe. This gun leather making is new to me so I want to keep it simple. Is there a fool proof pattern somewhere I can get? I read somewhere to close the toe(muzzel end) up would this be correct? Any suggestions gratewfully accepted

LR

[Trailrider]

Howdy, Pard,

The best thing you can do to keep the gun from falling out of the holster while you are moving is to have a flap or a hammer thong that you leave on the hammer spur until you are ready to start the draw, or at least until you have stopped moving to the firing position.  This will slow you down some, but with the short barrel it is the best way.

So far as the holster design is concerned, having the holster cut high enough so that it encloses both the trigger guard and the cylinder and frame, and perhaps high enough in front to shroud the hammer, will help.  I prefer to make all my holsters with a closed toe, either with the sides simply pinched in and stitched or with a teardrop-shaped plug, to prevent dirt from plugging the muzzle if I sit down in dirt, mud or snow.  Closing the toe will help the holster keep its shape, especially when the holster is properly wet-fit to the gun.  But eventually, the leather will stretch a bit, so that I would NOT depend on it to hold the short-barrelled pistol in when moving around.

So far as there being a "foolproof" pattern is concerned, there really is no such thing.  What you do want is a holster that hangs straight up-and-down on your strong-hand side, with the gun butt to the rear (conventional draw).  I presume you have an "Old Model Vaquero" with the 3-3/4" barrel (measured from the front of the cylinder), WITH the ejector.  That limits the holster design a bit, as you have to have enough length on the body to accomodate the belt loop.  While you might get away with a "Mexican loop" style, the body of the holster is a bit short to have enough room to fit a skirt band (where there are two slits in the skirt that the body slips through), and even the later style with a separate skirt band lacks enough room.  Best bet is a "slim jim" with the belt loop sewn on to the back of the holster.  Of course, it depends on how wide a belt you are fitting it to.

If you like, you can e-mail me at trailrdr@ecentral.com and I'll try to give you some more information.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Trailrider gave a good run-down. If you don't already have it, get Al Stohlman's book, "How to Make Holsters" found here: http://www.eleathersupply.com/books.shtml . It's about 1/4 the way down the page on the left. He has a lot of holster patterns that are varied enough to give you good direction.

[litl rooster]

Thanks Pards........usefull stuff here CasCity..were lucky to have it at our finger tips

BTW Trailrider since that one incident 2 seasons ago the thong stays on that gun before and after use.

[Brazos Jack]

Rooster, help has arrived! There is a pattern availabe (four actually) that is simple to use and makes a Top Notch Holster with no wet molding involved. Yeah I know, that sounds a little far fetched, but these have been tested, tried, and true.
I spent a great deal of time developing these patterns as well as the methods described in the instructions. Try it, you'll like it!

These are available at Hide Crafter Leather in Fort Worth, TX. Below is an example of one of them.

Holler at me.

[litl rooster]

Take 2

  OK last week I was browsing a gun aution site, and run across this beaut.(priced out of my means)..I really like the rig that is going with it, it hit me that's what I would like to try and build.  I have the leather cut and laid out, I plan on using rawhide lace I have from hitching scarve slides to whip stich it with. I also intend on boardering with some brass spots. I have a supply of black colored sueade I intend on lining it with.

  Again thanks for the help and advise.......I will post back as I near completetion.

LR

[Marshal Will Wingam]

That's a nice holster design. I'm looking forward to seeing yours when it's finished.

[outrider]

Rooster:

I agree with Wingham..nice design.  I recently was looking at that design in a new book I got for christmas.

Make sure that black suede you have is not chromium tanned...if you are not sure don't use it.  Chromium tanned leather will play the devil with the finish on your revolver.  My opinion...don't line with suede...holds too much moisture, and can collect dust and dirt that can be abrasive. 

Also, when I send you those pictures I promised I will include one of a rig that I made for a 3 inch sheriff's model.

[Springfield Slim]

Ralph: if you have any questions you know you can always give me a call. I do some leather work now and again, not just bullets.

[litl rooster]

Good thoughts on the suede.mebbe I won't use it


I'd rather pay one you fella's to make holsters for my wife...that way I am sure they work..I am just fiddling with this project...I know now repairing tack is alot easier....You guys are the real artist


makes note to self check bullet supply    Iam going to need some soon