TTN hammer double questions

[Doc Nelson]

Can any body point me to where I might get some disassembly or exploded views? I just picked it up and haven't even shot it yet but I'm thinking someplace to get some spare parts or tips to slick it up would be nice.

Suggestions?

Doc Nelson

[Silver_Rings]

I got this from A SASS wire pard, Hellgate,

Pat,
I (thank God) had the sense to copy & paste a bunch of info I took off the SASS Wire on various aspects of the TTN Colt 1878 Repro. Here is everything I have on it. I found that vise grips worked great for compressing the mainsprings (hammer springs) to jiggle them out of place. You may need to file the tip of the mainspring where the stirrup slides into the notch to allow the hammers to rebound back to "safe". I wish I could send you a drawing or picture of where to file. Take a real close look at the original springs and how the tip is shaped and match it only if the hammers don't rebound. If, after replacing the heavy springs with the lighter ones, the hammers rebound fine, don't touch a thing. OK, here's all the (edited) info I saved:

To replace the break open lever spring the stock must be removed. One screw is covered by the lever. Push lever to far right and remove screw.
Remove screw at tail end of tang. Turn gun over and remove the lower tang tail end screw. Then the trigger guard screw. Then lift up on back end of trigger guard and unscrew the trigger guard from receiver. Then forward screw holding lower tang. The stock and lower tang will seperate from receiver. The lever spring will be at rear of receiver. Squeeze the spring with pliers and remove. The upper ends of spring has a raised dot to engage dimples in receiver. Note which way the straight side of spring is facing.
Hope this is clear enough. I can change the spring faster than I can type this.
Rawhide
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Pull the hammer back to a cocked position. Remove the screw which was covered by the hammer. Grab ahold of the hammer and wiggle it while lifting and pulling. The sideplate is held into the receiver by a small lip at the front of the sideplate. Eventually you will wiggle it loose and off it comes. Clamp the existing spring all the way closed with a small visegrip and you can then unhook it from the hammer and it'll pop right out of the sideplate where it is held with one pin. Clamp the new spring shut with a visegrip, (you may have to use two to get it done properly), hook it on the hammer thing first and then put the pin back in the hole. Release the vise grips and you are all done.

AJ, be careful on those springs, there may be some fitting required. The ones I got had one of the pins mushroomed on the end and it wouldn't fit in the hole. Also one wouldn't let the hammer go all the way forward to strike the firing pin. If you look at it, the arched end that hooks over the cam lever needed relieved at the forward end of the arch. Tell him to make the new ones match the old ones there if he has the same problem. Some of the parts in these are hand fitted due to machining problems with small parts. E-Mail me if he has questions. Once fitted, those hammers will cock with one thumb easily. My shooting partner couldn't tell when I cocked mine at our last match and he was watching for it!..........Buck
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How do you remove/replace the action catch spring. I finished the hammers springs...very easy thank to you pards...


To replace the break open lever spring the stock must be removed. One screw is covered by the lever. Push lever to far right and remove screw.
Remove screw at tail end of tang. Turn gun over and remove the lower tang tail end screw. Then the trigger guard screw. Then lift up on back end of trigger guard and unscrew the trigger guard from receiver. Then forward screw holding lower tang. The stock and lower tang will seperate from receiver. The lever spring will be at rear of receiver. Squeeze the spring with pliers and remove. The upper ends of spring has a raised dot to engage dimples in receiver. Note which way the straight side of spring is facing.
Hope this is clear enough. I can change the spring faster than I can type this.
Rawhide

Thanks for all the help pards. Btw the straight side of the spring goes forward, towards the muzzle. It's back together & ready to go

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CC, If you have a favorite dealer, have him contact TTN. An exchange of FFL's and he can order for you. TTN's number is 949-707-1718. Walt is a good guy to talk to. Have him ship the lighter springs with it. They make a big difference.........Buck

TTN International, Inc.
23192 Alcalde, Suite "I"
Laguna Hills, Ca. 92653
949 707-1718


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SASS Wire Vet
Member # 2404
posted August 05, 2004 10:05 PM
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I like the cosmetics of the Liberty guns but for the Classic Cowboy, the TTN is a much better choice. For several reasons. The hammers spurs are close for easier one-handed cocking. Even just out of the box it is do-able. This is not the case with the Liberty. The liberty hammers are spread wide making it very difficult to cock one handed out-of-the-box. This can be remedied with an action job, but still requires some effort.
There was concerned that the TTN gun couldn`t be opened with the right side cocked. Not to worry, the lever works under the hammers to open. The Liberty will also, but the latch lever does hit the hammer spur.
The TTN has large heavy hammers so because of the additional inertia this allows the reduction of the hammer springs more so than the liberty`s light weight hammers.
As Old Scout mentioned, it points well. The Liberty`s don`t have enough drop in the stock. They tend to shoot high for most people. When I shoulder this gun there is no rib visible, just bead. If you see rib, you will shot high.
The next issue is there is no tang safety or hammer blocks to complicate the gun. That was the biggest problem with the Liberty. All that extra junk makes it hard to tune.
I just found out today, the internals of this gun are same as the originals. Even the nuts that hold the hammers and firing pins are an odd size somewhere between metric and SAE just like the originals. I have been told, the newer ones will have metrics for easier access.
Next, this is a 3" chambered long forcing cone gun. Strawberry lars knows shotguns but I do disagree with him about 3"chambered long forcing guns compared to 2 3/4" short cone guns.
Felt recoil is minimal with this guns.
I talked Walt with TNN and he tells me that this gun has passed the drop test, but he also mentioned that they did a 12/20 test. They dropped a 20ga round in a chamber and then a 12ga round on top of it and then test fired the gun. He tells me that the barrel showed no damage but they did bust the stock.
Both the liberty and the TTN are of the newer stronger mono block design. Basically, the chamber area is all one piece, but the TTN is much heavier in this area.
The locks on the TTN are mounted like the original, they are positively attached to the receiver metal not the wood. The problem with the liberty locks is they attach through the wood and over time they get loose or they get tighten to a point that one trigger will shoot both barrels.
Although this gun is made in China, it is the best work I have seen come out of China since Coyote Caps got the Norinco 97`s straightened out.
This years EOT Classic Champ, T-bone Dooley shots one of these TTN guns.
Awhile back, one of our top local shooters decided to go Classic and had me build him one of the Liberty`s. Well, I now have that gun back to be sold for him. I just finished his new TTN.
Anybody need a slicked up Liberty?
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The TTN 1878 is about twice as much as the others. Just can't get excited about spending that much, as a newbie, on a shotgun. Maybe after I handle one I'll change my mind.
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But hubby just got a TTN 1878 SxS. It costs about $150 more than the Norinco SxS. It is heavier, has better wood, & better fit & finish than the Norinco. He has a Norinco 97. You'll probably spend $100 to $150 on an action job on a Norinco. The metal is pretty soft in his Norinco. The TTN uses American spec screws. I would get the TTN & not have to worry about it needing too much work. But I'm just a woman & you know how most of are with a $
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I saw one at a gun show last week for $460.Is that a good price?
I'll eat peanut butter and jelly for as long as it takes to get one.
Ben
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I was firing full power birdshot rounds (all I had handy) and noticed something. Pre-firing, the gun opens easily, but after firing, the gun cracks open about halfway and seems to "Hang up" requiring a real yank to open it the rest of the way. I'm sure its just something that needs to be polished a bit on the catch or something, but not really sure where to do this. I couldn't see any obvious area where it was hanging up. Anyone run into this? Any inputs?
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Check the extractor for smoothness of operation and any burrs. If that's ok, then check the gun with WinAAs or RemSTS and see if the problem goes away.
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look for drag marks on the fired primers,........it might possibly have a draging pin or one that's too long,..........before you open the fired gun cock it again and notice to see if they get out of the way to open it ...........just a thought.......
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bushman66,
Did you install the lighter springs? The design of the gun is such that the V spring and the stirrup it rides in are what determine the rebounding of the hammer. If it is not rebounding, the hammer will be seated on the firing pin and will cause it to be stuck in the primer, which will prevent the gun from opening.
To check this is simple. You can try this with spent hulls. Cock the hammers and pull the triggers, again use empty fired hull. At rest the hammers should not be touching the pins.
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[Doc Nelson]

Thanks, that is what I was looking for.

Doc