Okay guys, I'm getting a Swedish Rolling Block in 12.7x44R. Sportered already, but the bore looks good in the pics. From what I understand the .500 S&W brass and dies will work for this, so does anyone here have any experience with this?
Thanks

I have a twin to yours and it shoots like a dream. Original sporter sights dead on at 167yds. I bought my brass from Buffalo Arms, the first batch were made from 348 Win, the 2nd batch was from 50 Alaskan.  I use a 450 gr .512 from buffalo arms, 67gr 2F GOEX compacted and a Winchester Lg Rifle primer.   It uses 50-70 dies.

I can confirm that .500 S&W cases and dies will NOT work.
(.500 S&W cases will disappear down the chamber, get stuck in the forcing-cone and have to be knocked out from the muzzle end with a sturdy cleaning rod. Yep; been there, done that.)
.50 Alaskan cases is the way to go; just cut to length, trim, then fireform.
Be aware that some of these Swedish Rolling Blocks have had their chambers reamed to .50-70 Gov't. in modern times. 
A .50-70 cartridge is just a little to long & fat to fit an original 12,7x44 chamber.
So if a stock .50-70 case does fit your chamber you know you have "a Swede with an American upgrade"...!
.50-70 dies will do the trick, so will .56-50 Spencer-dies in a pinch...
If using reduced loads of blackpowder, try filling the air-space between powder and bullet with sesame seeds for added lubrication.

Deacon, on the off chance you check this forum before the other one, AlOvera just posted some .50-70 dies for sale on the SASS Wire.

My Swede will almost chamber a 50-70, but it lacks about 1/8th inch going all the way in and the rim is way too thick.

I'm glad I ran into this thread as I have a Swede Rolling Block sitting in my safe that I really haven't looked at. This will make me get going.

Quote from: Tascosa Joe on October 22, 2024, 08:41:57 AMMy Swede will almost chamber a 50-70, but it lacks about 1/8th inch going all the way in and the rim is way too thick.

There is a way around this. 
First turn down the outer diameter of the .50-70 rim to fit the Swedish chamber.
(you can test-fit this by inserting the case, rim first.)
Now; the .50-70 case will be to fat just ahead of the rim to fully chamber.
Full-length sizing in a standard .50-70 die will not suffice.
I found that the full-length sizing die of my LYMAN .56-50 Spencer die-set is just the required amount tighter.
However, you will need to use a good case-lube (I prefer Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax) and insert the case fully. 
It will need to sit on top of the shellholder instead of in the shellholder.
So remove the decapping unit from the die beforehand.
You will now have to knock the fully sized case out of the die with a suitable rod and a hammer.
Finally trim the sized case to fit your chamber.
I've done this with Starline .50-70 brass.
 
I'm thinking it would also work with Starline .50-90 brass, although you would probably have to rough-cut the 2,5" case to a tad over 1,75" (45mm) before sizing to avoid it being crumpled inside the .56-50 Spencer die.

Note: this was accomplished in my LYMAN .56-50 Spencer full-length sizing die. 
I cannot vouch for the results using other brands of dies...
Starline's .50 Alaskan cases remain the path of least resistance.

Gentlemen I DO thank you for all the good information. Thankfully, none of our distributors had .500 S&W dies in stock yesterday, so I will grab some 50-50 dies. I did pick up about a half-dozen 500 cases yesterday, but I can live with that.

If it helps, I have a set of Lyman 56-50 Spencer dies that I'm not using. I bought them for my Armi-Sport Spencer, but they didn't crimp tightly enough for that, so I bought a set of RCBS dies. I don't really have a use for the Lyman set, but I didn't want to sell them to someone who was loading for a Spencer and would just have the same trouble I had.  Let me know if you're interested.

Griff

I have several Swedes. The Rollers use .50-70 cases shortened a bit and the rim DIAMETER reduced. Chuck the case in a drill press and use a file on the "cut & try" scheme.

I also have a Husqvarna underlever Cape Gun. The civilian chamber refuses cases made on .50-70 brass. I had to make cases from .348 Win for it.

Quote from: Sir Charles deMouton-Black on October 22, 2024, 10:25:00 PMI have several Swedes. The Rollers use .50-70 cases shortened a bit and the rim DIAMETER reduced. Chuck the case in a drill press and use a file on the "cut & try" scheme.

I also have a Husqvarna underlever Cape Gun. The civilian chamber refuses cases made on .50-70 brass. I had to make cases from .348 Win for it.

Like button to Sir C!

Watching this since I just got a .45 Dane RB coming in

I am constantly amazed at how many different calibers can be made from .348 Win!

Sir C could you post lithographs of your Cape Gun? I have always admired those things, along with Drillings.

Yhs
Prof marbles

Deacon and others

If you fellers cannot find dies, since sir C posted the magic cartridge dimension websight, i believe it
"Ought to be" feasable to lathe/ream cheap steel forming dies

Yhs
Prof marvel

Quote from: Professor Marvel on October 22, 2024, 11:59:23 PMWatching this since I just got a .45 Dane RB coming in

I am constantly amazed at how many different calibers can be made from .348 Win!

Yhs
Prof marbles

.348 Winchester used to be the "go-to" case when 12,7x44 Swedish & Norwegian brass was needed. 

This has all changed with the arrival of the .50 Alaskan.

https://www.starlinebrass.com/348-winchester
Notice how the .348 Win. is both tapered and bottle-necked?
Forming 12,7x44 from it involves cutting off the bottle-neck portion, annealing, then blocking out the case-mouth with a tapered tool of some sorts to enable it to accept the 50 cal. bullet. 
Then after fire-forming you will still often be left with a hour-glass shaped case.

The ".45 Danish" also comes in a plethora of variations.
The original military round was a rimfire copper case.
When the Danish NRA got hold of these Rolling Block rifles they were converted to centerfire and some had their chambers reamed to accept longer cases.
In modern times some of them have been reamed to accept .45-70 Gov't. cases.
If the chamber is original spec you will need to reduce the diameter of the rim of .45-70 cases, then trim to length for your specific chamber.  Finally fireform the cases.
A recommended bullet is the LEE .459" Hollow Base 405 grain.
Due to high lands these Danes tend to kick harder than you'd expect from a similar .45-70.
(I realize I'm weering off topic vs. the original post...) 

Keep veering Gents! I'm learning a lot from this thread. Got the 50-70 dies, now to find some 50 Alaskan brass. Will still check the 500 S&W just out of masochism.

Quote from: Professor Marvel on October 23, 2024, 12:01:51 AMDeacon and others

If you fellers cannot find dies, since sir C posted the magic cartridge dimension websight, i believe it
"Ought to be" feasable to lathe/ream cheap steel forming dies

Yhs
Prof marvel

In my personal experience C4HD (aka; CH Tool & Die} is the best and most economical source of dies for calibers not on the most popular list. They also have a wide variety of case forming dies at a price even I can afford.

P.S. Some of LEE's little tricks can assist. When reloading for my russian Nagant revolver, I use about 4 0r 6 pieces from die sets already in my inventory, aka junk-heap.

Abilene posted on the Powder Room Starline was taking back orders for lots of cowboy cartridges and .50 Alaskan.

 

Well after surviving the "Arkansas Scenic USPS Tour" the rifle arrived a week late. Bore is good, needs it's new extractor fitted and the case hardened finish is still beautiful. Gonna find a new fore end for it. And someone has glued a thick piece of leather on the end of the butt.

Excellent!

Congrats on your new Rolling Block!

The crowned "C" on the right side of the receiver means it was manufactured at the "Carl Gustaf Stads Gevärsfaktori" (English: Rifle Factory of Carl Gustaf's Town) in Eskilstuna.

It does not look like the serial numbers on the receiver and barrel match, so probably a barrel swap at some time? 
You have the military rear sight, graduated in meters. 
Most sporterized Swedish Rolling Blocks had the rear sight swapped for a small fixed sight with one or two foldable leafs.

The two holes in the left side of the receiver puzzle me.... - maybe someone has tried to mount a hunting dioptre or scope on the gun at some time?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remington_M1867

https://www.militaryrifles.com/swedish/m1867remington