I have browned many an octagon barrel, a set of O/U 45 caliber rifle barrels that had been silver soldered together, but have never browned a set of SXS shotgun barrels. It would stand to reason you should be very careful with the heat to avoid disturbing the solder joint. I have a 16 gauge SxS armory steel barrel. Any advise out there on heat sinking or whatever?
Triggersmith
If you use Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown you can get the barrels hot enough with boiling water. Won't effect the solder a bit.
Takes a few more applications and "carding" between each with a rough old brown paper towel (like they used to have in gas stations when they were still service stations) and a lot of elbow grease. Really make sure you get down in the hard to reach places.
I've used that on all kinds of barrels with some quite spectacular results.
Thanks Forty Rod. I use Birchwood Casey's plumb brown on all my muzzleloaders. I use a small propane torch on the octagon, didn't know you could get a barrel hot enough with boiling water. Course a shotgun barrel is a bit thinner. I'll give it a try.
Triggersmith
Trig, I've done a couple of Hawlens, a Lyman tade rifle, and a friend's Whitworth that way. They all got thick barrels...just takes longer to do it with hot water. Takes longer to get the barrel hot and doesn't get it quite hot enough, so you have to do it over and over until it takes on enough color to look good. Results can be gorgeous, though.
Also did three SxS double guns and they turned out well...except for one fingerprint that made me start all over on one.
Don't forget to degrease after each carding.