Well I was at Yolo and the River City Regulators with Hell R Highwater this weekend, and used the 56-50 infantry rifle as my main match rifle. It shot clean, and worked perfectly. I did notice, however, that it seemed to catcch a little after firing 30 rounds or so, and I chalked it off to fouling and sticking cases. I did a post mortem, however, and found it was not sticking cases after all.
I remembered a trick to help smooth the action and ejection. On the back of the breech block is a flat surface that engages the frame. At the top of this, it has a somewhat abrupt transistion to the top of the block. This makes you have to be more positive with the down stroke, and robs some inertia. I slightly (and I mean SLIGHTLY) broke this corner and rounded it a tidge with a dremel. It made all the difference in the world. Working the action is 50% easier!
I recalled that I had a simular, though worse, problem on an original that I had fitted a S&S breech block to. In that case, I found I haad to break off this corner on the new breech block, and it cured it completely
REMEMEBER, ONLY SLIGHTLY ROUND THAT CORNER. It will remove that little "stickyness" just before opening.
With that said, it was great to finally meet Hell R High Water face to face, and enjoy a possee with him!
TL:
Would this modification be needed/recommended on the carbines, too?
Howdy,
ANy SPencer may benefit, but it may not be necessary. If the block timing is perfect, there should be little or no change in the resistance to the lever being operated just as the block clears the frame and pivots forward. I did it because I felt a distinct "catch" just before it pivoted. Try the weapon unloaded. It should be smooth and without catch, though it may be a little freer after it clears the frame.
If you are not sure if you can feel it, you probably can't feel it and probably don't need to. Both 56-50 Carbines I had did not need it, as I recall, but the infantry rifle did.
Good shooting with you this last weekend TL. I checked my Taylor's 56-50 carbine and it doesn't seem to have this problem. This may just be a situation that has to be checeked on a case by case basis by each owner; a little burr left from machining on some actions. I look forward to shooting with you again in the near future.
HHW
I remembered a trick to help smooth the action and ejection. On the back of the breech block is a flat surface that engages the frame. At the top of this, it has a somewhat abrupt transistion to the top of the block. This makes you have to be more positive with the down stroke, and robs some inertia. I slightly (and I mean SLIGHTLY) broke this corner and rounded it a tidge with a dremel. It made all the difference in the world. Working the action is 50% easier!
a photo of this area On the back of the breech block is a flat surface that engages the frame. At the top of this, it has a somewhat abrupt transistion to the top of the block.
would be very helpful, next time you have your apart.
The exact location would be clear.
Thanks
a black powder shooter showed me a trick to improve the cycling of spencer rounds. he rounded the top part of the case rim (the side facing the length of the case). this prevents the round from binding in the magazine and not chambering well. i have had no cycling problems once he turned down all my brass. i would be very hesitant to modify the chamber itself by my self. good luck, geo.