I want to get a curved "trap"-style buttpad on my shotgun, something with exaggerated devil horns on the top and bottom.
I think a leather lace-on pad would be the most elegant solution and avoid any potential rules concerns. That makes it somewhat adjustable too.
https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=69374.0
I've seen plenty of lace-on pads with straight butts, but not one with a curved butt under it.
Any insight on how can I go about making such a thing?
I'm considering buying some leather and a trap pad and then trying to kludge my own thing together, it'll be my first attempt fabricating something like this though so I'm not optimistic it'll look very good.
I like a simple lace-on pad that covers a decent amount of the stock. I put a small piece of padding inside to fill it out.
This is on a rifle but I make shotgun ones the same.
(https://i.imgur.com/JhaMbbW.jpg)
Quote from: Marshal Will Wingam on January 24, 2025, 06:32:53 PM(https://i.imgur.com/JhaMbbW.jpg)
Looks good to me. Long enough to cover the cheek weld too.
What kind of leather do you use?
What kind of lacing?
And most importantly, how would you go about "bending" the butt to accommodate a curved cushion?
Quote from: Begle1 on January 25, 2025, 11:32:35 AMLooks good to me. Long enough to cover the cheek weld too.
What kind of leather do you use?
What kind of lacing?
And most importantly, how would you go about "bending" the butt to accommodate a curved cushion?
You just make the cover curved to fit the stock.
(https://i.imgur.com/7gOyUAA.jpg)
I personally don't like a crescent butt plate, though. I prefer a shotgun stock like that one in my earlier post. And, yes the shotgun stock is historically correct on some Winchester short rifles.
(https://i.imgur.com/4BZQyHR.jpg)
The long cover protects the stock from some of the damage you can do to it during CAS matches when moving quickly on some stages, like bumping the stock against the hammer of a holstered pistol or placing it quickly back on a wooden table.
The leather was just some upholstery stuff I had on hand. The lacing was cut from a piece of that leather, too.
So I'm looking to buy some leather.
I've seen recommendations anywhere from 3-4 oz to 10/11 oz.
For a total novice, would it be easier for me to work/shape/sew thinner or thicker leather?
Is there any reason to avoid using sinew to lace the pad on? I've always seen the leather thongs, but it seems like sinew could get tighter.
Use lighter weight leather. Make a two-part pattern, one for the sides and one for the butt plate. I use cereal box cardboard for the patterns. Trace the outline of each piece using your rifle as the pattern. Allow about a quarter inch sewing allowance to each piece and sew them together WRONG SIDE OUT. Wet the leather, turn it back to correct side out. Wrap the stock with Saran Wrap or plastic and lace the pad to the stock. When dry remove the Saran Wrap and treat the leather with your favorite oil or leather treatment.
Note: Do any stamping/decoration before the pieces are sewn,
Lucky ;D
Thanks! If I came out with a cover that looks like yours I'd be thrilled.
So would 3-4 oz be a good "lighter" leather to start with?
There really isn't any "right" or "wrong" about making one of these. I like thinner leather because it's 1)easier to turn right side out, requiring no wetting of the leather and 2)it makes a nicer looking (in my opinion)cover. Choose the thickness and type of leather you want and go for it. You can't go too far wrong and it'll be a lot of fun to make. Stitching with sinew could work just fine. Experiment on a couple scraps before committing to a cover. The leather I used is about 3-4 oz. but I've seen guys make them from as thick as 12 oz.
Since the leather doesn't have to hold a shape like a holster, seems like think should be fine.
:) Hey Abilene :D
Umm, How thick or heavy is "think" leather?? Hard to work?? (Snicker snicker chortle chortle ;D ::)
It means that no matter what you use, you can say I think that's good.
;D
Quote from: Marshal Will Wingam on January 30, 2025, 07:09:41 PMThere really isn't any "right" or "wrong" about making one of these. I like thinner leather because it's 1)easier to turn right side out, requiring no wetting of the leather
If you wet the leather and lace it tightly to the stock, when dry, you will have a skin tight fit to the wood giving a better appearance. Play around with what has been said here and you will soon be a good worker in leather.
Lucky ;D
Thanks everybody. I got a few square feet of 3-4 oz leather and some artificial sinew on the way, I'll share what I come up with.
I guess I need to buy the pad too now.
In mine, I just cut insert pads from one of those +-11"x 18" garden kneeling pads. If it's too thick, it is easy to thin the stuff down.