Pards,
How do you wet mold? I soak the holster, stick the handgun in a plastic bag, stick the gun and bag in the holster, and leave it there til it dries. I've heard of other techniques as well. What do you all do?
Uncle Chan
Something very similar. I wipe the gun down with an oily rag, put it in a ziploc freezer bag, then wrap 2-3 layers of duct tape around the barrel and cylinder. I wet the holster down pretty good with warm water (seems to soften the holster quicker), then insert the wrapped pistol. I will pull the pistol in and out a few times then leave it in the holster for at least an hour or two. During this time I'll reshape the throat of the holster or anything else that needs hand shaping. I then take out he pistol and let the holster dry. Seems to work very well.
I do not dry the holsters in the oven. Seen my dad ruin too many knife sheaths that way.
Later,
Laff-a-lot Louie
I take my pistol and oil down good, then I take sarahn wrap and cover my pistol with it. Then I wet the holster liberally with warm water and place the pistol in the holster until it starts to dry.
I think you've got the idea here. I have done this to a pistol that I have. I bought an "el cheapo" Civil War military holster and my Navy .36 was a little snug in it. I wrapped the pistol in some plastic wrapping, soaked the holster until fully wet in the sink with warm water, then jammed the pistol in the holster and let it sit over night. The next day it holster was still damp, but the naked pistol slid in and out with no problems. This isn't the greatest idea for this...but it works!
I submerse the holster in water for about 5 - 10 seconds. Then I put two ziplocks around the gun and push it in, working it to form the holster to fit. The ziplock bags keep the gun from getting rusty and the additional thickness around it is just about the right amount to make the holster fit right. Then I leave the wrapped gun in it for maybe an hour in the sun. After that, I alternate an hour in, an hour out until the holster is dry. You could leave the gun in until dry, but I've found the holster dries faster this way because the air can circulate through the inside. Also, I had one mold inside because it stayed wet too long with no exposure to air on the inside. As the leather dries, it tends to shrink up a bit, so I may have to work the pistol in the holster if it seems to be getting too tight. If it's winter and I can't put the thing outside, I usually put it by a heater vent or such. I've dried leather items in the oven using just the pilot light and the door propped open with a wooden spoon, but I won't do that with a gun in it because I don't trust what it could do to the grips. If you have an electric oven, this won't work.
Greetings and Salutations to one and all.
Uncle Chan, Pard you got most of the story right here.
My method is not much different than those you have been told about. Mostly there are a whole bunch of variations on that theme. They usualy vary about how wet, or how long you leave the gun in, do you use just the plastic bag or do you wrap it with tape?
As an example, when I do it I spray non stainless guns down with WD-40 and wrap with one of those veggi bags from the grocierie store. I thouroughly wet the holster under the hot water faucet. Then I jam the gun in and twist it around. I "bone" the holster around the gun and flair the holster mouth. This is the molding part of the Wet Molding Process. I usually leave the gun in the holster while it is drying but, as has been pointed out this is not nessessary.
There are as many ways to do this as there are people doing it but the big chunks are the same no matter who does it. I will tell you that the more time you spend on tha boneing the better the gun and holster will mate up. I have holsters that I've made for autos that you could see the impression from the checkering on the slide stop.
As far as to how wet? Well some say just to dampen it others say to soak it. I just remember that the wetter the holster the longer it takes to dry. As has been pointed out the holster will shrink some when it dries. But the leather itself will shrink, like a dry sponge so the holste's inside will not shrink so much. After the holster is dry you can spray the inside with silicone to make it slipperier. I don't like OIL on my holsters, it softens them into shapeless bags. I finish with Tandys Neatlac. If the holster needs work on the outside try shoepolish or wax. Do not use snow seal etc as the grease will also soften up the leather.
Just my two bits in the kitty.
Regards, Beaumont
Thanks everyone for your replies. It is nice to know that all methods are similar and I'm pretty much following the same pattern. Appreciate all of your assistance.
Uncle Chan
I'm making this one a "sticky" because this is one of the most common questions asked. Anyone looking to wet mould their holsters can find this easily.
I just got done wet molding a couple of pair of holsters. (pair for 58 rems, pairfor 51 colts)
I did just as was described, but, I also hand tapered the openings and worked in some gun oil on the inside of the holster as well.
FWIW: I cover the revolvers in CLP or such before putting them back in, even after "drying" the holster...
I have had good results with this method...works well.
Finally found my digital camera...
Here is the black pair I just received... (Pietta 1858 Rems)
(http://www.gunblast.net/images/SASS/holsters/bl_holster1.jpg)
(http://www.gunblast.net/images/SASS/holsters/bl_holster2.jpg)
Here is the brown pair I have been using this last fall... (Pietta 1851 Colts)
(http://www.gunblast.net/images/SASS/holsters/br_holster1.jpg)
(http://www.gunblast.net/images/SASS/holsters/br_holster2.jpg)
The work GREAT!!! (so far as I can tell)
The left side colt does drag just a bit due to the wedge on that side... I am sure it will work its way around when needed.
I still have to put hammer straps on these things, though...
They look good, DW. Thanks for the pics.
Quote from: Uncle Chan on October 18, 2005, 11:41:20 AM
Pards,
How do you wet mold? I soak the holster, stick the handgun in a plastic bag, stick the gun and bag in the holster, and leave it there til it dries. I've heard of other techniques as well. What do you all do?
Uncle Chan
Well, my question is Why?
Is it to tight, not tight enough, going for that Silver Screen Cowboy look?
Because it wasn't done during the Victorian Era, @ least after 20+ years of research I've yet to find a reference to it being done.
I have a blue gun for the Taurus 24/7, 1911, and SAA. I just add a pieace of leather to the SAA for Rugers. Wish I could find a Vaquero Blue Gun. I use those for strecting and forming the leather. It doesn't rust and except for the ruger is and exact copy of the gun that I am making a holster for usually. If I have something else I will use the plastic bag and oil the gun and mold it but I don't like leaving it the leather for the whole drying time. I will usually moldit when the leather is wet and them take the gun out and wipe down then after the leather appears dry but it is still cool( a sign that it is still damp) I will put the gun back in the bag and then back in the holster. Less chance of the moisture damaging the gun. Same with knifes except no bag just wipe the knife down with oil and insert into the sheath for molding then out and wipe the knife down. Then after I oil the leather I will insert the knife for the final fitting. After the oil is absorbed it will wipe the knife down.
Y'all got the process down pretty good. Here's a couple of insider tips...
Do you like a FIRM leather holster? Guns that glide out & drop in when re-holstering? Instead of plain water when blocking your leather, add a small amount of Fiebing Leather Sheen to the water & mix well. (alternatively consider "carpenter's white glue"
Don't be afraid to really wet the leather. I don't mean to really "soak it" but I wouldn't be shy about leaving the holster submerged or basted for 30 to 60 seconds! It's not a race to see how fast you finish the job. Taking your time ensures the blocking agent is drawn deep into the hide.
The Leather Sheen (acrylic top dressing) is absorbed into the leather & leaves it very firm & very resistant to future water penetration and/or softening. I have also had excellent success using white carpenter's glue as an additive. It's cheaper & gives a firmer result.
I know this all sounds weird but I assure you the results will amaze you! One thing you need to be aware of is that you might want to consider dying your holster at the same time especially if using water/alcohol based dyes. The acrylic will RESIST stain once dried. Oil based dyes will penetrate when dry but best results are obtained when the leather is still damp with the blocking agent.
Experiment with scraps if you want, but once you've tried this method you will be the envy of gun-leather aficionados!
Howdy, I'm new to this place, but I have been making leather gear for cops and cowboys for about 10 years and I concur with the postings i have read thus far. I usually dye the holster before assembling it and before molding.
I have recently started doing something a little different, with my wife's permission, of course. After wrapping and oiling the weapon, I usually use the plastic bag my newspaper comes in, and I have made a piece of leather that fits around the cylinder, which adds some space for those who wish to cock the weapon a little earlier as it comes out of the holster, I wet the leather with warm water, (but I have heard of using a mixture of water and denatured alcohol) and insert it into a bag from my wife's vacuum sealer. I then use the vacuum sealer, as directed, to suck all the air out of the bag and it molds the leather holster really nice and snugly around the weapon (and any built up pieces/areas). I have found that this adds to the safety in that the weapon specifically fits the holster (or vice versa, depending on how you look at it) and doesn't have any slop around room. You must be careful to position the weapon in the holster as you want to carry it and then it'll always be exactly there when you want to draw.
Now, the vacuum sealer bag will not allow the leather to dry, so you have to cut it open and remove the holster/weapon combo. I usually let it dry for a few hours to one day with the weapon still inside then remove the weapon and allow it to dry completely before i put any final finish on the holster.
This method will produce a holster that is really snug at first, but after use it'll soften up a little and be a bit easier. I like a holster that is fairly snug in the beginning rather than one that is too loose, because it'll only get looser as time goes by. This method seems to save me a lot of time rubbing/boning the contours of the holster around the weapon and if I'm careful i can reuse the vacuum sealer bag for a few holsters and then molding some smaller items before throwing it away.
If I can be of more help or you need something made that you can't find elsewhere let me know, my e-mail address is in my profile. Luke.
Howdy Pards and Pardettes.
Luke, Pard what a good innovative idea. That is basicaly the process for bonding carbon fiber composit pannels for the tail of the Boeing 777. Bag them put them under vacuum and shove them into an autoclave.
I had thought about a press and rubber pads to pressure form the holsters. You do it with a vacuum and don't have toput mega stress on any part of the operation. Good Idea Pard!!
That is all I think I know.
Rwegards, Beaumont
How does the wetting of the leather affect the tooling? I recently did a hand tool job on a Slim Jim (kind of a hand tooled basket weave) and, although I only wet molded it last night, it seems that the tooling is in no way as good as it was before...cut lines swelled, tooling a bit blured...and the color seems kind of blotchy.
I wouldn't say it's ruined but I'm not sure I would do it again.
I only submerged the holster in warm water for about 20 seconds...
The leather was 9-10 oz and I used Fiebing oil dye light brown. The 59 REM wouldn't go all the way in until the weather was wet and fit fine now...just sung enough.
WIll the color return to normal as it dries?? Any suggestions for wet molding a tooled holster???
Thanks!
You did it the same way I do mine. The color should return to close to the original. Sometimes a finish will get slightly discolored, depending on what finish is on it. With just dye, it should be OK. Regarding the tooling, if you're careful with it, it shouldn't get damaged. It is in a state where it can be easily changed so you want to handle the surface of the tooled portion as little as possible. I do all mine and they come out just fine. The pattern may distort a slight bit where the leather needs to be stretched, but not enough to notice. The cut lines will probably open up some when it dries again. The holster may close slightly as it dries, too. Put your pistol in now and then during the drying to make sure it still fits. You can work it back and forth a little if needed while it is still damp.
When the outer surface really counts due to dyes, antiques, top coats, various toolings and misc other finishes I will wet from the inside only. One method is to plug the bottom of the holster and fill with water to just short of spilling point at top for about 15-20 seconds. Another way that is slower but easier to control exposure is to pack the holster with rags or t-shirt material and add water as necessary to keep moisure against inner leather for about 25-30 seconds. For both methods I want the water to stop short of the wet look showing on the exterior and the time quoted was for lined holsters which take water slower. I am not trying to get a formed look which requires manipulating the leathers exterior.
Quote from: JP Strongquill on April 18, 2006, 09:45:40 PM
Y'all got the process down pretty good. Here's a couple of insider tips...
Do you like a FIRM leather holster? Guns that glide out & drop in when re-holstering? Instead of plain water when blocking your leather, add a small amount of Fiebing Leather Sheen to the water & mix well. (alternatively consider "carpenter's white glue"
Don't be afraid to really wet the leather. I don't mean to really "soak it" but I wouldn't be shy about leaving the holster submerged or basted for 30 to 60 seconds! It's not a race to see how fast you finish the job. Taking your time ensures the blocking agent is drawn deep into the hide.
The Leather Sheen (acrylic top dressing) is absorbed into the leather & leaves it very firm & very resistant to future water penetration and/or softening. I have also had excellent success using white carpenter's glue as an additive. It's cheaper & gives a firmer result.
I know this all sounds weird but I assure you the results will amaze you! One thing you need to be aware of is that you might want to consider dying your holster at the same time especially if using water/alcohol based dyes. The acrylic will RESIST stain once dried. Oil based dyes will penetrate when dry but best results are obtained when the leather is still damp with the blocking agent.
Experiment with scraps if you want, but once you've tried this method you will be the envy of gun-leather aficionados!
I use the same method accept that I leave the holster in the warm water, alittle longer. I use Elmers Glue mixed in the water. Never had it ruin the finish or change the color. I get a rock hard holster that holds it's shape for a long time.
Howdy All
I never use warm water to wet mold. Cold tap water. I've never had a tooled holster lose any tooling that way.
WC
Quote from: cowboywc on June 27, 2009, 01:37:39 AM
Howdy All
I never use warm water to wet mold. Cold tap water. I've never had a tooled holster lose any tooling that way.
WC
I agree with WC on this, I never use warm water on my leather, you allow too much of the natural oil's to escape, I do natural dying, and submerge my leather holsters/gun belts in my dye for one too five days at a time, my theory on this is once your leather is wet, it won't get any wetter, and by using cool water in my dyes it doesn't take the natural oils out like hot water will.
So when I wet mold my holster to the gun it's for, whether it's dyed or not I soak it in cool water, then remove it and let the excess water drip off, then I take a paper towel and wipe it down, then I put the gun in and do my forming, I let it sit in the holster for about 20 to 30 minutes, by this time the leathers memory has taken over, I remove the gun, and hang the holster on a on a strong wire hanger I made so that the wire just runs down the bucket , or center of the holster, I have these hangers hung from the ceiling of my shop, this allows the leather to dry from the inside out, in a cool surrounding, never in the sun or near a heat source that would put stress on the drying process, after 24 hours it is stiff and the way I like it,then I do my conditioning and oiling and finishing, I find this method works well for me, and I don't mess up the PH balance in the leather at least ( IMHO )
Regards
tEN wOLVES ;) :D ;D
That's a good idea, Bill. I've used Mop 'N' Glow the same way with similar results. I'll have to try the Elmers. Thanks for the tip.
Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to your posts.
I "bone" the holster around the gun and flair the holster mouth.
What is boning the holster?
Thanks
-Willy
Taking a piece of bone to mold it around the gun like you would do with your finger,ive used the end of a butter knife before or a small spoon to press around the holster.As it is dryin ,go up and mold it once and awhile.The Cowboys Show showed a pro using something like a spoon if i remember right.Should be a smooth surface so as not to scratch the leather. ;)
When I first made a holster I must have searched endlessly looking for info, but to no avail. At any rate, I eventually learned to wet the leather. The thinner the leather the less time it takes to wet. Now ive done alot of what you guys have however, to mold the holster I use some C-clamps a ton of rubber foam (pipe insulation) or whatever thats soft, and my gun; dutifully wrapped.
After my weather is soaking wet, I fold the leather over the gun, put copious amounts of foam or whatever padding I have, put a board on top (even pressure) and use the c clamps to press the hell out of the leather. This can be pretty dangerous depending on the weapon and your own common sense. Put some decent pressure and let the leather stretch. Ive gotten a flat piece of leather to stretch around a 1911 this way, it takes time but it works. If you have the time or money, those plastic replica guns would be the pro way of doing it but if your like me, just be careful with your weapon, dont wanna warp anything. I usually leave the gun pressed overnight, resoak the leather, press again, bone, (spray with water periodically), bone, and when it looks perfect continue on. You can get a top quality holster. I use a wood burner to do detailed artwork on mine. My first was a Desantis immitation paddle holster for my dad, which, is better than my desantis. Now im going to make somthing like the VMax2. The leather im using is especially thick on this one so im soaking for a few hours. I just wanted to chime in and add some thought, this info is very rare on the net. Good luck guys, its a rewarding experience.
Mike
Thanks for the input, NG. Looking forward to more of your posts. Welcome to the forum.
This thread is great. I was able to follow some of these directions and did a pretty decent job of molding a pair of slim jims to be a perfect fit for my Pietta Navies.
Thanks Pards.
Howdy. that's what our forum is all about, glad this help you along, and you can always check our FAQ/HOW TO, thread for great information we have gathered. 8)
tEN wOLVES ;D