Hello,
I'm wondering if anybody has some general guidelines for disassembling the action of a stoeger double trigger coach gun. I've got the action sitting in front of me (stock is off). I want to basically take it appart to smooth everything out and maybe lighten the trigger a bit.
I have one of the lee springs but am not sure yet if I will install it since mine opens up fairly easy with the stock spring. The trigger pull is very heavy and I'm thinking I might adjust the sear springs just a tad to lighten the trigger and generally polish interfacing parts up a bit.
Specifically, I'm wondering if I should decock the hammers before removing the pins to take the tension off the hammers etc and if there are any other tips or tricks or any kind of specific order I should be doing things in.
Thanks!
Yes, decock it. Basically, you just drive out the cross pins. There's only a few parts in there. There's not really much in there to "smooth". The only parts that touch are the sear surfaces and you'll find that smoothing them will have little effect on trigger pull. Before you even take the gun apart you can lift the sear spring off the leg of the sear and pull the trigger. Even with the sear spring tension removed, you'll probably still have a heavy trigger pull. If you remove the hammers be prepared for a little problem putting them in if you haven't done this before. Basically, put the receiver in a padded vice, put in the hammer spring and hammer and then put a flat blade screwdriver on the sear surface and push it in. (Don't forget the cocking rods if you removed them. They go in front of the hammer. Pain to have to remove the hammers again to reinstall the rods.) Almost takes three hands to push on the screwdriver and get the cross pin started. Resist the idea of weakening the hammer springs or you might start getting misfires. The Stoeger simply is not a precision instrument.
Something that will make that spring pushing a little less knuckle busting is a simple tool that you can make up in about 20 minutes. I used a piece of 3/16" steel rod. I heated one end and them hammered it flat and bent it at a 90* angle. Then it's just file a "U"shaped groove in the flattened part. The "U" shoul fit over the guide rod of the spring that you are working and the two "ears" on the tool will press the spring back. There is MUCH less slipping off of the spring, skinned knuckles and profanity when using this tool. They are also available from various gunshop suppliers, but they are kiind od pricy for what you get. They are so easy to make and cost nothing. You can put a wooden handle on it too. It makes it a little easier to compress those heavy hammer springs.
Thanks for the tips!
Wear glasses and take a picture before,and during so if you get one of those brain farts you don't go nuts.
Quote from: Popa Kapoff on September 24, 2011, 10:27:50 AM
Wear glasses and take a picture before,and during so if you get one of those brain farts you don't go nuts.
Our current era of digital cameras makes this great suggestion easy to do!
Can anyone tell me where to find detailed instructions on replacing the hammer springs?
My daughter's uplander that she uses for pheasants and CAS (20 years old ~ 2000 rounds) won't fire the right barrel. You get a very light dent in the primers. Everything is clean and appears to work, firing pins are not bunged up, gun cocks and fires, but when you put your finger over the firing pins and dry fire, the left hurts way more than the right. I am figuring the hammer spring is weak or worn.
thanks