few questions
1) who makes the 1858 New Army Revolvers for cabela's
2) by informed standards .... are they any good
3) can I (not a gun smith) change the handle too a bird's head style or simaliar style
(http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/content/Item/21/00/82/i210082sn03.jpg)
sorry 'bout the freakishly long url
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp;jsessionid=0DW5KTZJKOZFPLAQBBKCCONMCAEFKIWE?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=null-cat20817-cat20817_TGP&id=0006195210082a&navCount=2&podId=0006195&parentId=cat20817&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=XJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20817&hasJS=true&_requestid=9824 (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp;jsessionid=0DW5KTZJKOZFPLAQBBKCCONMCAEFKIWE?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=null-cat20817-cat20817_TGP&id=0006195210082a&navCount=2&podId=0006195&parentId=cat20817&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=XJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20817&hasJS=true&_requestid=9824)
Pietta makes them
They are OK , and should you get one not to your liking ( fit & finish or working) Cabela's has a no quesions asked
return and or replacment policy....
Can you change the plow handle Grip to Birds head ? ( not easily ) it's an Integral one piece frame design.
Custom Grips are available (Gripmaker, Texas Jack, and others)
I suppose one could carve a set of panels and or perhaps reshape the frame ( saw a Ruger done that way once )
Frankly, I think the appeal of the Remy is the design & profile.
Look at Larry Little's Gripmaker.com... you will find some different carved Faux Ivory grips, Eagles ,Shelds, Critters,
one just might suit you.
And they are snap to fit just send him a tracing of your OEM take offs
This is my Remington it is a Uberti Forged Frame Conversion but it will give you an idea
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b363/major101/Gripssized3.jpg)
Gripmaker's Eagle on a Uberti OT
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b363/major101/wolf5.jpg)
Gripmakers checkered on a Uberti Type II Richards
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b363/major101/conv1.jpg)
Each maker of a Remington NMA has different shaped grips. The Piettas are the beefiest whereas the Euroarms are the smallest. The Piettas are more heavily built and weigh more. The Euros are lighter and to me, mor pointable. The Ubertis are inbetween. Those with big hands probably won't like the Euros. I have read posts from some that the trigger guard rapps their knuckle when fired. I would suspect they are shooting a Euro and that wouldn't happen with a Pietta but most don't realize every Remmie maker does the grips differently.
I'm happy with Piettas. More about my shootin' irons here : www.drburkholter.com/cf5.html (http://www.drburkholter.com/cf5.html).
Good shootin', . . . . :)
i got 4 remey piettias one is 16 years old or more as it was used when i got it i love em
My Pietta NMA is year code [AS] It was a used, poorly finished, kit gun. All I have done is shorten the barrel to 6 7/8" and install a new front sight. When loaded with 30 gr Goex FFFG it is one of my more accurate revolvers. With Treso nipples and R-P #10 caps it always works.
My Pietta 1860 Army is year code [BB], and no problems with it either. No mods on this one, yet. I'm liking those checkered faux ivory grips though.
a couple of questions (probably stupid) ;D
when talking about a connversion cylender what does R & D stand for ???
and how do you get a 45cal bullet out of a 44cal barrel
In my opinion, it stand for QUALITY ..course I'm a bit Prejudice I've delt with Kenny :)
I also think Kirst & Anderson & Millington do fine work
http://www.randdgunshop.com/about.html
The .451 Ball for the 44 Colts and Remington is in fact 45 Cal. ;) = .451
Way back when the '58 Remington was a new gun the caliber was the bore and then it was rifled after so the measurement was the lands. Now a days it is the groove diameter that is considered the calliber. Clear like MUD ? . . . ::)
And my Piettas have a groove diameter of .454 When I first used .451 balls the barrel leaded badly. I use .457 balls and am ;D
I have a quick question, is there a way for someone to either link up a tutorial on slugging the barrel on a remington to figure out the diameter of the barrel? also a tutorial or some way to see how you dovetail the sights? I'm a hobbyist carpenter and I dovetail a lot with my cabinets and such (arts and crafts style) but I have no clue with metal, and I don't want to mess up my new Remingtons I have coming.
They're kits, which is a great thing actually, but the 12"er has a stupid modern adjustable sight on it which just won't do for me.
here's a pic:
(http://www.dixiegunworks.com/images/SS1040.jpg)
that gun combines literally two of my favorite Western fantasy guns in one! A Remington '58 and the Buntline! hehehe
it's just that I can't use her in Frontiersman with those dar-gun sights!
In the usual usage, R&D stands for Research and Development. It could also be the owner's initials, but I doubt it in this case, considering the owner's name.
Quote from: Wolfgang on October 14, 2008, 10:00:49 PM
Way back when the '58 Remington was a new gun the caliber was the bore and then it was rifled after so the measurement was the lands. Now a days it is the groove diameter that is considered the calliber. Clear like MUD ? . . . ::)
And my Piettas have a groove diameter of .454 When I first used .451 balls the barrel leaded badly. I use .457 balls and am ;D
Granted ;D A pard just got a Pietta I bought him bought .454 because the .451 were out of stock at the Shop I use.
In the Pietta, .454 shot tighter groups than the .451.... with the same charge
( Mine are Uberti's) I still had some .451 and with my pet charge of 21 grains I could match his groups....
I tried .454 in mine and shaved more lead on loading than his seemed to shave...but I was still getting as tight a group.
Moral.... :-\ A proper test it was not....but fun it was :)
Quote from: Major 2 on December 25, 2008, 02:56:41 PM
Moral.... :-\ A proper test it was not....but fun it was :)
LOL
isn't that the point though? I'm looking forward to all that testing personally! I was going to pick up three different ball sizes, different black powders, etc. when I first start shooting mine. First I'm going to fire my 1911 in it's "happy" round so I know that I still got it or not, if not, I'll use a stand to make sure it's a controlled group and not me getting better or worse over time!
anybody willing to help me out with the "adjustable" site conundrum or do I just not buy that gun, and buy a different one and add a bigger barrel?
also I just went to R&D's website and I didn't see any conversion cylinders for the 58 Remington, I thought there were some, or do you use a different model cylinder? If you could post the link direct to the cylinder that'd be awesome.
http://fcsutler.com/fccwrevolvers.asp
http://www.intlmidway.com/intl/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?SaleItemID=348267
then there is Taylors ( both Andy Falks Fall Creek & Tammy Loy @ Taylors will sell you the gun fitted with both cylinders)
Now to the Bad News... Don't fit the Cyl. to the Brass Frame The Cylinder comes with that warning
Gotta have the Buntline barrel ? get an 8" Uberti steel Frame and call VTI for one of these UB:120003 Uberti Barrel 18" .44cal (1858 Rev Carb) :o
Now thats a Buntline :o and you can safely use your R&D Cyl.
sounds good. thanks for the links, totally forgot about Taylor's awesome all in one deal!
how hard is it to take off and put on a barrel, I was actually having those same thoughts. Is it just plumbers tape and a soft covered wrench or something more complicated like a piston puller on V8 engines?
I have a lot of tools lying around, but I'd like to get into gunsmithing anyways, so any more help would be appreciated. Thanks for the awesome links.
I know i'm a little late on this but I bought my Piettas from Cabela's and I love them. I held the Uberti and others but the Pietta seems to fit me the best.
sweet. better late than never, especially when it's even a basic review on these guns. I like the idea of the Pietta just because they are a bit bigger, I have a massive paw, not fingers, just the paw. Also, bigger can mean stronger... so yeah.
No, no plumber's tape!!!
If the torque is right, it can go in dry, or even with anti-sieze compound to prevent galling. The proper torque is for the barrel (front sight) to be at 10:30 to 11:00 o'clock when hand tight, viewed from the muzzle end then tightened in a wood jawed vise and a wood 1X2 or similar non marring bar through the cylinder window.
Gunsmiths have frame fitting jigs to turn with and resined blocks to clamp the barrel. Care must be taken to not twist or bend the frame, so the block through the frame should match the angles and tapers of the frame to prevent distorting it.
The barrel has to be hand seated to check the angle/positionof the barrel for the proper torque when tight, and if it needs to turn in more to position the sight at 10:30-11:00, a lathe is used to set the shoulder back enough to put it in the correct position.
Once the torque position is set, the barrel is turned to 12:00 and you check the cylinder gap, then removed to turn the face , or use a Brownell's cutter to face the barrel to square it and adjust the cylinder gap.
Not a job the untrained is ready or equipped to do, usually.
yeah... hehe sounds like it. I'll pick up my pairs first (they'll be upgraded little guys for quick draw and fast sight, the shots are close enough) and then when I get to know them better, I'll buy another with the longer barrel to go with. In the gunsmithing schools I like, they have you work on a single action revolver, which they said the 58 Remington counted, so maybe I'll just make it there.
A little late to the party, but as to the original questions, I had a 58 "shortie" with a 2.5" barrel and birdshead grips. A complete custom job I bought on Gunbroker. No markings. It had a percussion cylinder and a 5 shot .45 cylinder marked ASM. Never seen another ASM conversion cylinder. I have pics of this thing somewhere.
oooh, post it up! Kinda curious how to get a bird's head modded onto that solid frame. Probably cut and weld, but how strong was it?