Holy Cow!

[PJ Hardtack]

Here's a list of the things that my 'smith did to bring my NIB Uberti '71 in .38 Spl. up to par:

- stone burrs on hand
- fit the second notch of the hand to the cylinder ratchet
- lap the hand channel with a diamond lap
- remove burrs from cylinder ratchet
- get locking bolt to fully engage
- stone and fit trigger/hammer/bolt fit

Well done, Uberti! My gun must have been assembled on a Friday.

[Pettifogger]

Unless he also fitted the barrel to the cylinder arbor all that is a waste of time.  Virtually all Uberti open tops have no contact between the barrel and the front of the arbor.  Makes timing and wedge fit impossible to get correct over the long haul.  I consider all Uberti Open Tops to be deluxe do-it-yourself kits and go through every one before shooting them.

[Coffinmaker]

Hi PJ,

Unfortunately, Pettifogger is spot on.  The absolute FIRST THING to do to an Open Top is check and correct the Barrel/Arbor fit.  If that isn't right, he gun will never be "right."
Take it apart and assemble the barrel to the frame without the cylinder.  With the barrel turned off to one side install the barrel without the cylinder.  It should seat with MINIMAL effort.  Then turn the barrel into alignment with he frame.  The pins are in the way.  But, the barrel should twist until it slides up against the pins.  If it hits he frame, you have some work to do.  If it hits the frame, I'll refer you to Pettifogger's articles pinned on The Open Range.
Once the Barrel/Arbor fit is correct you can move onto head space and end shake.  The work already done to the gun will then be worthwhile.

Coffinmaker

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[Pettifogger]

Here's how the barrel should fit the frame.



But most fit like this.

[smokin6]

There is no reason for fitment issues like that from the factory. Any QC going on or what.