Uberti M1871 Open Top

Started by Grapeshot, May 17, 2012, 09:25:11 PM

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Grapeshot

OK, I just picked up a new toy.  A Uberti 1871 Open Top that's marked as .45 S&W Schofield on the barrel.  The cylinder, on the other hand, is chambered for .45 Colt.  My 250 grain, .45 Colt loads fit and still allow the cylinder to turn unimpeded 360* around the the arbor.  Might be the reason that it was on sale. :o
Listen!  Do you hear that?  The roar of Cannons and the screams of the dying.  Ahh!  Music to my ears.

Pettifogger

Very common.  Nothing to worry about, Scofields will chamber and fire just fine.

Grapeshot

UPDATE:  I took the opentop to a match on Saturday, 9 June 2012.  It held it's own acuracy wise but seemed to have timing issues when loaded with live ammo.  Took it home to clean and check out the innards.  Everything seemed to be normal until I tried to put the hand back in.  The spring has to be compressed to get it to go back in the receiver. 

Well, I compressed it to much and snapped it off the hand.  I ordered a new hand from VTI and it refuses to rotate the cylinder.  In fact, I can't get the hammer to cock at all.  It is now sitting in my closet waiting to go to my gunsmith for him to time and do his magic on it.

Frustrating.
Listen!  Do you hear that?  The roar of Cannons and the screams of the dying.  Ahh!  Music to my ears.

Thumper

Sounds lke you put back together in the wrong order. The bolt has to be placed back in 1st, then the trigger, otherwise it's possible to capture the front of the trigger under the bolt screw and lock everything up...give it a try. Also, when compressing the hand spring, do it from the top and only as much as necessary to start the assembly in the cutout.

Grapeshot

Quote from: Thumper on June 19, 2012, 11:06:36 AM
Sounds lke you put back together in the wrong order. The bolt has to be placed back in 1st, then the trigger, otherwise it's possible to capture the front of the trigger under the bolt screw and lock everything up...give it a try. Also, when compressing the hand spring, do it from the top and only as much as necessary to start the assembly in the cutout.

Thanks for the suggestion.  I did install the bolt prior to installing the trigger.  Still no joy.  I did figger out how to install the hand by compressing the spring from the top.  Any and all suggestions will be appreciated, even it they don't work.  I always am grateful to my fellow shooters for sharing their knowlege so freely.
Listen!  Do you hear that?  The roar of Cannons and the screams of the dying.  Ahh!  Music to my ears.

Thumper

Grapeshot. If you remove the cylinder, does the action perform correctly? If it does, then that means the new hand is too long and is engaging the ratchet rim, not just the ratchet spurs. Simple but time consuming fix (file a bit, put back together and check
, repeat as necessary). Best way to do this is to remove the main spring, backstrap and trigger guard. Leave the trigger/bolt spring in place and drop the hammer and hand out the rear of the receiver to do your adjustments. When you reinstall the hammer and hand you'll have to hold the bolt leg slightly away form the hammer or it will bind. When replacing the cylinder to check your work, make sure and have the hammer at 1/2 cock so that you don't force it over an extended bolt lock. When it seems that everything is moving properly, replace the barrel and try it again.

Finally, if removing the cylinder doesn't allow the gun to function properly, the bolt leg is on the wrong side of the hammer cam, remove and reset, work the hammer to make sure it's functioning properly before buttoning everything up again..

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