Cap'n Ball Capping Questions

[kflach]

That sounds like a reasonable method, but I guess I should have noted that I'm not a very handyman kind of person. I'm not sure what kind of steel I'd use to make the steel shape - but I guess the people at Home Depot or Lowes would know. I have a Dremel tool (I've only used it once) but it sounds like I'd use it to cut the steel to the specs I wanted. Is that about right?

[Mako]

Kflach,
Contact me via personal message and I'll walk you through it.

Regards,
Mako

[Mako]

Aggie,
See my P.M. about the modifications you are contemplating.

Regards,
Mako

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[Noz]

You might mention to kflach about modifing the cylinders on the Remingtons to make any capper usable.

[Claypipe]

Been a while since I owned a Remmie. I did see that Ted Cash has a capper that he touts as being able to "fit into the difficult Remington revolver with ease." Has anyone tried one of these?

CP

[kflach]

Noz, If you're referring to Dremeling the edges of the cylinder that wrap part way around the Nipple recess, I've seen that information. I haven't done it yet though - I'm waiting till I get more experience with a Dremel tool so I don't screw anything up.

claypipe, I've seen long skinny cappers at Cabela's and at online outfits that are touted as being able to fit into Remingtons (mine came from Cabela's). I didn't get mine directly from Ted Cash's web site but both of my cappers are stamped with his name on them. They may be what you're referring to. They both fit my Remmie fine. My brother got one for his Remmie at Cabela's and his fit fine too.

I did buy one online on one occasion that didn't work. It looked from the ad that it would, but the prongs on the end (that hold the cap in place) were different and didn't fit. I gave that to someone who didn't have a Remmie (a feeble attempt at "passing on" some of the generosity that's been shown to me by all my pards).

[Lucky R. K.]

Been a while since I owned a Remmie. I did see that Ted Cash has a capper that he touts as being able to "fit into the difficult Remington revolver with ease." Has anyone tried one of these?

CP

I have one of these inline cappers that I bought directly from Ted several years ago at Friendship.  They do work very well with the narrow 1858 cylinder cutout.  The problem with them is that they do not hold that many caps and you spend quite a bit of time loading them for a complete match.  I am pretty sure that Cabalas also sells that capper.

I have modified both of my 1858's so I can use one of my Cash snail cappers.  I dropped a 3/8" end mill down into the cylinder cutout until it was level with the bottom of the cutout for the capper.  I then slowly moved the cutter out removing just a bit of metal from each side of the cutout.  Now I can use a regular capper that holds a box of caps with no trouble. 

That sounds kind of confusing. I hope you understand.


Lucky 

[Pettifogger]

I use a ball end mill.  That way the cutouts look nice.  The in-lines are a pain as they take longer to load than they do to empty.  The snails are a lot easier.  Drop in a hundred caps, shake it a little so they all turn over and then you are good for several stages.

[Cuts Crooked]

Well it appears that this is already headed back to civil discourse....so I won't lock it at this time.

However.....most of you know my methods. If it doesn't stay civil, it's gone.

[kflach]

When you cut (or grind) out that metal on the cylinder do you have to re-blue it?

[Mako]

When you cut (or grind) out that metal on the cylinder do you have to re-blue it?

Kflach,
You don't have to.  If you make the cuts as shown you could use cold blue and I don't think anyone would notice.  They would be envious though because you could use a snail capper.
Regards,
Mako

Did my directions on the straightline mod. make any sense?

[kflach]

Thanks!
-------------
Yup! I just PM'd you.

[Lucky R. K.]

Pettifogger,

Thanks for the tip.  The ball end mill makes a much better looking cut.

Lucky 

[kflach]

I Googled "ball end mill" and discovered it looks like an attachment I have for my Dremel tool. If I were able to confirm that the attachment I have works on metal could I use it? Do I need to clamp the cylinder and then *slowly* mill (?) away the metal or can I hold the cylinder in one hand and the Dremel in the other?

As has been mentioned, the snail cappers hold more caps and that would be useful.

[Mako]

Kflach,
I'd hold off on the manual "milling" attempt.  I think Pettifogger was showing us a cylinder that was cut on a milling machine. I won't speak for everyone here, but I believe there may be one or two who have ground their cylinders by hand even on this forum.  I may be getting this confused with another forum or even the SCORRS board, but I believe I have seen pictures of hand modified cylinders posted.

I'm sure one of our SCORRS members can give you better advice and maybe even direct you to a smith who could do it for you.  Flint could do it if he has time.

Regards, Mako

[kflach]

Don't worry, I'm in no rush. I'm just trying to understand this for possible future use.

;-)

[Pettifogger]

You can't mill steel with a Dremel.  If you try using a steel cutting tool on a steel work piece three things are likely to happen.  1. you'll ruin your cutting tool.  2.  You'll ruin the piece you are trying to cut.  3.  You'll ruin a finger or two.  What you can do with a Dremel, and plenty of pards have done it, is use a cylindrical stone or small sanding drum.  Hold the stone/drum at a 90 degree angle to the base pin hole and you'll wind up with a cut that looks like the pictures.  Anyone notice anything else that's different on the cylinder on the left?

[Cuts Crooked]

I have cut mine on a drill press with a milling bit. It's slow but it does a nice job. Made wood "jaws" to fit in the clamp on the press to hold the cylinders.

Like I said, it's slow, but it works fine, and I didn't have to buy a milling machine. 

[Mako]

Anyone notice anything else that's different on the cylinder on the left?

Yep...you added a gas shield.  You old gamer...

Regards,
Mako

[Noz]

Using a 1/4" sanding drum on a Dremel allows you to finish a cylinder in 3 or 4 minutes. A single pass down the slot until the drum contacts the bottom of the slot. I never ran it far enough down to even notice the contact at the bottom of the slot, in other words all of the ones I have done still have the square appearance of the stock cylinder with all of the benefits of the improved.  It remove a lot less metal than the mills do and is just as effective. The tightness of the slot is one of the benefits of the Remingtons in that this tightness helps prevent cap fragment from falling into the works.
You guys are rtying to make it too complicated.