Bluing advise

[Wagon Box Willy]

Howdy folks,

I foolishly tossed my R&D conversion cylinder in the my soap and vinegar jug with my spent casings for about 20 minutes not thinking anything of it.  When I pulled it out to clean it the bluing was pretty damaged and removed in a number of high friction areas.

I'd like to re-blue it but have no idea what it takes.  I'm hoping there is some easy, even if it's not the best method, that I can use.

Advise will be appreciated.

Thanks
  -Willy

[Professor Marvel]

My Dear Monsieur Hookset -
with no other takers, I will offer my two bits as it were on the topic.

If it were my cylinder, and I had no other chemical supply cabinet,  I would order out  some commercial deblue chemicals and a hot blue kit from Brownells. get three times as much as you might need, and try it out first on some sacrificial project, such as an older percussion cylinder or barrel. Foll ow the directions explicitly, and contact Brownells excellent staff if you need any assistance.

If I had access to my own shop and supplies, I would follow the caustic bluing advise that has been posted here in ancient times (use the forum search feature).

By all means, on such a fine cylinder, avoid the use of the various cold blues, except as a temporary expediant. The cold blues are an interesting chemical cocktail that performs a thin chemical copper wash, or plating onto the properly prepared steel, which is then almost instantly blued by the mix. The the resulting blue can be done to look quite well, but is notoriously thin and easily worn or scratched. Hot caustic bluing while nastier and mor diffivult to perform, is more durable and pleasing to the eye, IMHO.

i hope this helps,
yhs
prof marvel 

[Wagon Box Willy]

Thanks,

I went for the BC cold bluing simply because it was readily available and quick.  The cylinder came out great.

I understand about the durability and will take care not to be too rough with it.  I dont use the gun enough to worry too much about wear from the holster but when the day comes that I have time to do it right I will try something more durable.

Thanks again

   -Willy

[Virginia Gentleman]

If it were my gun, I would strip all the blue using a product called Evapo-Rust, slightly polish the gun parts with 600 grit, being careful not to change any angles on the parts.  I would then get some of Brownell's Rust Blue solution and follow the directions using the degreased steel wool to "card" the metal between applications and boiling in distilled water.  This will produce a deep blue black that will look like a nice double gun or winchester barrel that will look much better than the modern blue and will be much more durable than cold blue.  Yes, rust blue is more work, but it is really worth it!

[WyrTwister]

     Best cold blue I have ever used is Brownells OXPHO-BLUE .

God bless
Wyr

[Pettifogger]

I've tried them all and the best home blue kit is Blue Wonder.  Here's a goofy video, but the stuff really does work well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNrX9LFzjUU&feature=related

After you have watched the video just Google Blue Wonder and you'll find their home page.  Cabellas sells it.  That's where I got my last kit.

[Frizzen]

Use Van's cold blue and you will throw the rest away.   Really.

[Alphawolf45]

Everybody should have some cold blue in their shop. Often use it to quick put some color on new bolt or pin heads. And its perfect to test the odd piece of steel or new barrel blank to see if its carbon or stainless steel.
.
For cold blue  I use Brownells oxphoblue.. I think its good stuff but I rather not use it on a whole barrel or action. I use rust blue for serious projects.

[Wagon Box Willy]

Thanks Folks,

I ended up using the BC product and it looks acceptable though not great.

At some point I may redo it with something else.