Caring for leather

[Camille Eonich]

You hear allkinds of things about what to do for leather and what not to do so I thought that I would put it up for discussion here.


Belt and holsters - I don't currently do anything for mine but my old set needs something.  I have heard put oil on them to keep them from drying out and I have heard don't put oil on them because it will make them soft and rot the stiching.  What's a girl to do?


One pair of boots that I have are Earthwalkers.  They are very, very thick bullhide leather.  Soft leather but heavy and thick.  I bought some Lexol cleaner to use on them when they need a good cleaning and I also bought some Lexol conditioner.  MOST of the time I just wipe them off with a damp rag and let them go at that but I fugure every now and then they need something.  They were losing their color.  Good, bad, right, wrong?  Is there something better that I can do?  Stephan, the guy that made the boots is the one that told me to use the Lexol cleaner.  I picked up the conditioner on my own.

[Major 2]

I've used Lexol for years and I like it.
I use Pecards as well on dry leather....

Old timers will swear by neets foot, but they use it sparingly. I've seen way to many old saddles over oiled and ruined.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Any good leather conditioner will help. When leather gets old and dry, it really needs something that can replace the natural oils. Neetsfoot needs to be used sparingly, as the Major said. I've never used Lexol, but many swear by it.

I have some Leather New liquid glycerine saddle soap by Farnam that works wonders, too. I'm not sure what the ingredients are, but it must have some lanolin or oil in it. I use it to soften leather after I dye it. I'm pleased with it.

http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?PGGUID=2E87C2F6-7B6A-11D5-A192-00B0D0204AE5&ccd=INK001

Thanks for asking this, Cammie. Since this is a common need, I'll sticky this thread so it will be easy to find in the future. Hopefully we can get some other ideas posted here, too.

[Nolan Sackett]

disclaimer: I, Chuck Burrows, disclaim any responsiblity for damage to your leather goods when using these recommendations and/or products as I have no control over their proper or improper application...................

to quote Dave Nitzel, friend and master leather craftsman:
"The opinions on how to best care for your leathergoods are as vast as the number of products available, and there are many."

Personal Recommendations:
I recommend the following steps and products in caring for your leather goods. As for my expertise in this matter I have used leather holsters, boots, and horse gear in all kinds of weather from the rainy Pacific Northwest, where I once worked as a logger, to the high, very dry desert of country of the Southwest, where we now live, as well as the humid South where I was born and raised. Just remember: leather is a unique, natural product and unlike most things its appearance can actually improve with age. Leather is also one of the most durable and long lasting investments money can buy. Proper care will help protect that investment.

*** Animal Oils as Leather Conditioners ***
A SUMMARY OF INFORMATION PROVIDED BY INDEPENDENT LEATHER EXPERTS
Regarding the rumor that animal oil deteriorates leather: Independent leather experts state that if leather is properly cared for (periodically cleaned, dried and conditioned) this will not occur. Furthermore, leather professionals maintain that leather which is neglected or which is conditioned while dirty or soaking wet will be damaged more by dirt, debris, bacteria, mold mildew, moisture. It is not the animal oil, but poor care which is the culprit.A conditioner which contains animal oil is not harmful to leather in and of itself. Poor or negligent leather care is harmful to leather. Ultimately, problems of mold or rancidity are the result of lack of proper leather care.
Every piece of leather in existence started out as living skin on an animal, stuffed with oil and fat as well as a large amount of water. Hides begin loaded with grease and fat; they are degreased prior to the tanning process, after which oils are restored to the hides through "fat liquoring" or "hot-stuffing". Oil must be added to the hide to restore suppleness. Animal oils have always been used in fat-liquoring and have a tremendous historical track record. In the past, sperm whale oil was used primarily. Tanneries commonly use such oils as: animal oil, fish oil, vegetable oil, and some mineral oil. The use of oil in after-market conditioners is absolutely necessary for lubrication. Beeswax in a product provides a water-repellent barrier.
A personal note to the above: I have a pair of boots that I used continuously for seventeen years and they were treated with leather conditioners containing both animal oils and beeswax. They have finally worn out, but the conditioners DID NOT rot the threads or leather as is often maintained by some "experts". A scientific study done in the 1990's by a master saddle maker proved that pure neat's foot oil (not neat's foot compound) will not rot leather or thread. Most of the time the rotting factor is water and salt in the form of perspiration or just plain miscare of your leather. You can over oil your leather though and this is why all professional leather people recommend LIGHT coats of conditioner (applying more than one if necessary).

Recommended Leather Care Products (for smooth leather):
1) Cleaners: Recommend using Lexol's PH Balanced Leather Cleaner
2) Standard Conditioners: For normal conditions I regularly use Lexol Conditioner or Fiebings Leather Renew. Both use emulsified oils that don't leave a sticky residue behind. Lexol sometimes leaves a filmy coating after drying that is usually easily buffed off with a soft cloth. You can also rub on a second light coat and wipe off immediately to remove the haze. Both products help replace the necessary oils into the leather
3) Heavy use Conditioners: For day in and day out use of your leather in all kinds of weather: Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing is a product that I have personally used to protect and help keep dry such important items as my logging boots (wet feet are miserable!). As mentioned above in the animal oil section there are some folks who claim these type items will damage your leather, but I have used them extensively and have had no problems with them. But each to his own and there are many other fine products.
4) Polishes:If you want a higher gloss shine use either a clear paste polish found in most stores or try Fiebings Tan Kote. Apply following the manufacturers directions.
Use Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
If you want to protect and prolong the life of your leathers - you must clean and condition them. Excessive dryness can cause leather to crack and too much moisture can cause it to swell, mildew, and then stiffen as it dries out. A good leather cleaning system will clean your leather gently. Leather also requires conditioning to replace the natural lubricants lost during normal use. Just as your own skin dries out when exposed to the elements, so will your leather. If you don't apply a moisturizer, you're significantly shortening the life of your leather. A good sonditioner will help stop rain, spills or anything wet from staining your leather. Cleaning followed by conditioning is the route to keep leather in good condition.
Some Basic Don'ts
I don't recommend using silicon products or most aerosol "gunk" sprays, because they can impair the leather's ability to "breathe" by clogging the pores. DO NOT over clean or condition as excess oil and wax attract dirt and dust particles that actually cut the microscopic fibers that make your leather durable. NEVER use harsh household chemicals to clean leather and normally avoid leather preparations that contain alcohol, as it will dry leather out. After using saddle soap don't forget to wash the excess soap solution off with a clean damp cloth. Avoid drenching the leather with water..
Some Basic Do's
Clean your smooth leather on a regular basis (how often you clean/condition depends on how much and under what conditions you use your leather) using a good saddle soap and follow the directions. If the item is muddy scrape off as much as possible and let it dry; after the remaining mud has dried completely brush it of using a medium stiff natural bristle brush. If your leather is really dusty also brush it off before using saddle soap. While the leather is still damp (NOT soaking wet) from cleaning, apply a thin coat of conditioner, the leather's pores are open and this will help the conditioner to penetrate. Let the item(s) hang in a warm dry place, but NOT near a heat source or in the sun, and after about an hour wipe off any excess conditioner. Wait 24 hours and apply another coat of light conditioner. Wait another 24 hours if you are going to apply a heavy, "water proofing" type conditioner (such as beeswax based). Always follow the manufacturers directions.
Putting a shine on your Leather
Polishing is done for special occasions when you want a more glossy finish on your leather. There are a couple things to be wary of when purchasing a polishing agent. Some products contain coloring factors that will brush off on things you come in contact with. Some products also have a tendency to clog the pores in leather or dry leather out. Just as with cleaning, be sure to test out the product on a small area and when ready, buff to a shine.
Your New Leather
Your newly purchased leather has been treated in the above "light treatment" fashion. If you get stains you don't want (hmmm doesn't that just "improve" the aged look), remove the offending stain as soon you notice them, the longer they go untreated the better the chance is that they'll leave a permanent stain. If you can't remove the mark with a few firm rubs using a leather cleaner, don't keep rubbing as you may damage the leather. It's important that you use a quality cleaner and conditioner to remove stains. DON"T use the types of solvent or cleaner you normally find under the kitchen sink: they could do a lot of damage to your leather. No matter what technique you use always test it first someplace on the leather that can't be noticed. A gum eraser will remove a variety of marks from leather. Grease marks can sometimes be removed by rubbing the spot gently with sawdust moistened with benzene (lighter fluid). Most types of glue can be removed with a ball of dryed rubber cement. Again, be careful not to rub hard or the surface may be damaged. Ink is the most difficult stain to remove, because it is much like a dye itself, when attempting to remove the ink you may remove the leathers original dye. You also want to avoid placing sticky back name tags or badges on your leather. They will almost always permanently damage the leather. If you are unable to remove a stain on a leather yourself, your best bet is to send it to a "professional leather cleaner".
Really Wet Leather
Ok, so you get caught in a downpour and your leather goods are sopping wet:
1) Remove any heavy items from the pockets of leather clothing (of course take your gun out of your holster).
2) If possible take a dry towel and soak up as much as you can - don't rub - just blot. If a towel isn't handy shake as much wetness from the leather as possible.
3) To help keep your holsters or boots shape stuff them with paper towels and or un-inked newsprint (you can usually buy end rolls for pretty cheap from the local newspaper). Change the paper frequently until it quits absorbing water and then remove it to allow the item to dry from the inside and outside. For boot drying I can also highly recommend the PEET boot dryer, it just circulates a current of room temperature air into your upturned boots or shoes.
4) Let your leather air dry naturally, avoiding direct heat or sunlight.
5) When your leather is nearly dry, apply a little light conditioner. Follow that up with a full conditioning treatment as listed above when the leather is totally dry.
6) Leather with a nap, such as suede, should be brushed after drying with a soft natural bristle brush or terry cloth.
Leather Garment WrinklesWrinkles
If your leather garments become wrinkled, place them on a hanger and gently pull the wrinkles out. Be careful not to overstretch stretch the leather. If this fails, you can try an iron (you're on your own here-Wild Rose Trading Co. disclaims any responsiblity). First make sure the leather is completely dry. Place a heavy brown paper bag over the leather. Set the iron on the lowest setting and keep the iron moving constantly over the paper. DO NOT use steam.
Professional Cleaning
Professional cleaning should only be done when absolutely necessary and again only by a leather specialist. You shouldn't use a regular dry cleaner unless they can prove to you that they know what they are doing and that they work with leather regularly. Most dry cleaners know a lot more about fabrics than leather. When possible, let the cleaner know the source of the stain so they know what to do when processing. For instance, antifreeze can cause your leather to burn when cleaned. Cleaning chemicals may also weaken cement bonds. Because a slight variation in color or texture may occur, even when done by a qualified professional, always clean matching items at the same time so that the color tones will continue to match. A small amount of shrinkage may occur, but will stretch again with wear. Natural marks and wrinkles may also become more apparent after cleaning.
To find a professional leather cleaner near you go to The Leather Association. All the cleaning establishments listed are members of the Leather Apparel Association.
Leather With A Nap (suede, etc.)
Every once in a while brush your suede with a SOFT natural bristle brush Any spills or stains should be treated as fast as possible with dry corn starch - First blot, not rub, up any liquid still on the surface- then apply a generous amount of corn starch. Let it sit overnight then brush off. To get rid of dried stains that the corn starch didn't remove, try a gum eraser - Work the spot back and forth in several directions. Be careful not to work the area so hard that the nap is totally removed.
Storing Leather
To avoid drying out, keep your leather out of direct lighting, overexposure to sunlight, or near a heat source. Leather should always be stored in a well-ventilated, warm, dry area. Excess dryness can cause your leather to crack and too much moisture can cause mildew. Don't seal your leather in plastic, as you want to avoid anything that will impair the leather's ability to "breathe." Cover with a light fabric to protect from dust. Never use wire hangers for storing your leather clothing.


others mileage will vary...........

[Camille Eonich]

Wow!  Thanks Nolan, Will and Majer.

[Irish Dave]

My preferred product for dried stiff or previously neglected leather is a British product called "Ko-Cho-Line" (coach-o-leen). It does miracles on old leather and is a good conditioner for regular stuff.

I also like Saddle Butter as a general dressing for boots etc. after cleaning or just periodically as needed.

[Mal Hombre McKinney]

What about New gun leather. Should i condition it? It seems a little stiff to me. But being new to the sport, I'm not sure.
Thanks for all the help
Via Con Dios
Mal Hombre

[Mogorilla]

Hey Guys,
I have a question about the use of oils on leather.  I have heard and been seeing guys using olive oil on leather and have heard for years the controversy about neatsfoot oil.    I was a food chemist for ~5 years before moving into agrochem and all food oils spoil, forming peroxides as they do.    Do you guys who use olive oil notice any problems after a couple of years?   I have always used pure neatsfoot oil, avoiding neatsfoot oil compounds, with no problems, but my oldest piece is only ~5 years old.   Just curious if any rancid problems have occured.   

[HorsePen Henry]

Mogo, that's a good question and I am sure some of the rest of us have entertained that same question. I have not had any problems with EVOO or Neat-Lac. Those two being at different ends of the spectrum. It is interesting that you raise this question now as I just read an article by Joel McQuagge in one a my old Western Horseman magazines (June 2007) where he is addressing the cleaning and preservation of tack in humid climates. In that article he recommends Tee See Leather Oil and Lederbalsam over that as a finish.
That being said, I have been told by fellas with more experience than I that EVOO was the leather finish used on saddles and tack historically and I have read articles by contemporary saddle makers that dress their saddles with EVOO when finished. Like anything else, it depends on who your talking to, I guess. We all have our preferences and our whimsies.

Cheers,

X Horse Pen

[Slowhand Bob]

Within the last year I have seen two old holsters that I made in the '70s, one in the early part and one in the latter.  Both were dressed with neatsfoot oil and both look almost as I made them.  The newer of the two was given back to me but no amount of begging could get the oldest one back.  The boys father, long passed, had me make it for him as a Christmas gift in either '72 or '73  to go with a new Ruger SingleSix.  Both holsters were very plain and appear to have been mostly just kept stored.  As a side note, I did ruin many baseball gloves as a kid by using the old 'soak them in neatsfoot oil' and bind them around a baseball to form a pocket.  It is my opinion that most problems with any of the oils comes form the amount used.  I have even been using Ballistol as a care dressing on my personal leather for about three years now without any noticeable damage.  Very very little goes a long ways here and remember that remaining top coats can effect the rate of penetration.

[ChuckBurrows]

I've used it on and off for 35+ years and have had no problems - I BELIEVE that the reason is that most oils "evaporate" off over time (thus the need to re-condition, FWIW both Lexol Conditioner and their NF Formula were specifically formulated to slow/prevent this evaporations - this prevents rancidity.

...I have been told by fellas with more experience than I that EVOO was the leather finish used on saddles and tack historically...

Me too, but I have yet to have anybody offer PRIMARY documentation which I would love to have, especially since there were a lot more cow critters to make neatsfoot from than there were olive trees in the USA (actually I've read reports from manufacturers today which state that most neatsfoot made today is actually made from lard not cow feet.....)
Tallow, lard is the hog version, on the other hand was historically used and is well documented

[will ghormley]

Hey Mogorilla,

Not all olive oil is the same.  Extra Virgin Olive Oil is the oil from the first cold pressing of the olives.  This oil is naturally pH balanced and has properties that naturally fight mildew.  After the first pressing of the olives, they cook the olive mash and press more oil out of it.  This hot pressing is NOT pH balanced and therefore, not suitable for treatment of leather.

In the Middle East, (and I don't mean Ohio), they have uncovered leather Roman soldier's sandals, that are still pliable.  Extra virgin olive oil was the standard leather treatment for the time.  Entire trade routes were set up to trade in olive oil, because it resisted deterioration better than any other oil.  It could be stored, shipped, sold and consumed without worry, and that in a hot climate.  It was both a food stuff, an energy source and had industrial applications.  Something of a wonder oil.

Neetsfoot oil is great if you can verify you are getting pure neetsfoot oil made from cow's feet.  The problem has always been, are you gettin' what you think you are gettin'?

As for the EVOO vs. Neetsfoot oil in history, I'm not sure you can find much in the way of documentation either way.  While there were far more cattle in the Americas than olive trees, as far as I know, the U.S. controlled portions of North America didn't have much in the way of tea plants or coffee bushes either.  Yet, products from both plants were a daily commodiy in all but the poorest households.

My preference for EVOO is based on my discussions with several nameless and obscure old time saddle makers confined to front porches and the shade of trees, (and some research).  I can't prove it any more than I can prove I talked with the man who drove the first Model T Ford to Durango, Colorado to be sold either.  However, it was this old man who told me he had to back up the dirt track that was Wolf Creek Pass at the time, because the gravity feed fuel tank wouldn't drain into the engine when it was on such a steep incline going forward.  I believe he worked for Moffit Ford at the time, but I'm not sure I'm remembering correctly.  Then there was the old security guard at a gun show at the La Plata County Fair Grounds who told me of his days workin' La Plata County as a deputy packin' a cap 'n ball Remington 1858, but that's another story all together.

Anyway, my point bein', there's plenty of folks who will argue about this and that, and insist they are right.  You have to assume everything I'm sayin' is a lie.  But, if extra virgin olive oil really is and does what I say it is, and does what I say it does, it's a great leather treatment.  I've staked my reputation on it for decades.

So there ya' have it.  That's my two-cent worth.
Will

P.S. Chuck Burrows may be able to shed some light on the Model T story and the old security guard, since he lives in my old stompin' grounds in S.W. Colorado.  Chuck, we still need to go muzzel loadin' for elk one of these falls.

['Monterrey' Jack Brass]

Will; Here is a bit toward/in support of your two cents - it isn't much but it is primary documentation supporting the use of olive (sweet) oil as a leather dressing.



YMH&OS,

Brass

[santee]

Folks, don't put the second one on your salad!!

[will ghormley]

Sweet Oil, (extra virgin olive oil), and sperm whale oil, were also used as gun oils.  Frontiersman would wash out their flintlocks and caplocks with water, then "season" them with sweet oil, or sperm whale oil.  Last season I started carrying a small bottle of evoo in my rifle kit, to clean and season my flintlock in the field.  Works great!  Sperm whale oil may have been the gun oil of choice during the Civil War, but you would probably get a better read on that from a CW re-enactor.

On another note, I've read accounts of cowboys "greasing" their saddles with baccon drippin' from the chuck wagon while on the trail.  I wouldn't recommend that, but if you got lost and had to eat your saddle strings, they would be more tasty.

Will

[will ghormley]

P.S.  Mogorilla can probably verify this, having been a food chemist for a spell, but in my presentation of EVOO, I made some miss-statements.

1.  EVOO is not naturally pH balanced.  Since EVOO can't be broken down by water, apparently it's pH balance can't be measured as a pH rating.  The fact is, EVOO has to have a minimum of no more than .8% acidity to be concidered EVOO.  Less than one percent acidity would make it a pretty neutral and harmless leather treatment.

2.  Sealed containers of EVOO can last for five years before they begin to break down and form peroxides.  I may have left the impression it does not go rancid, but, like Mogorilla said, they do break down and form peroxides.  I'm not sure how peroxides effect leather, but I haven't noticed any problems with gear I've had for over thirty years.

So, there ya' have it.  I guess I only had a penny and a half worth

Will

[Mogorilla]

Thanks for all the input guys.   EVOO is far cheaper than pure Neatsfoot Oil.    And to answer the questions, you can't take the pH of oils directly, but food chemists take the pH of oils usually using a 1% solution, which is really a suspension of the oil in water.   EVOO is very low in acid content and if I remember correctly since it is a mono unsaturated oil, it is slower to form peroxides (I am struggling to remember some of that).  All food based oils eventually form peroxides or go rancid, same thing, either way it is what makes them smell and taste bad.   That is why wood butcher blocks should be treated with mineral oil, as the wood must hold the oil better than leather and the evaporation isn't as quick leading to a rancid butcher block.  Just a bit of trivia, the only food item that does not spoil is Honey, it may crystalize, but does not spoil, but don't put honey on your saddle. 
Bacon grease?   Wow, I would go nuts smelling bacon all day, not to mention in a fit of hunger I might eat my pants!  .    For now, I still have about 6 ounces of pure neatsfoot oil, so I will use it up before going to EVOO.  May have to dig up some books, since the Neatsfoot oil is also an animal by-product, it should experience rancidity as well.   Well this just stinks!!   Now my professional life and my fantasy one are mixing.     

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Great information, pards. Thanks a bunch. I've added these posts to our "Caring for Leather" thread for future reference.

[Wymore Wrangler]

I use balistol on mine, gives them a nice new shine to them...

[will ghormley]

Talkin' about honey brings me to my other favorite leather treatment, pure bee's wax.  Again, it has properties that activly combat mildew, resists rot, resist moisture, resist evaporation and helps the leather retain the oil it already has.  After all, it's one of nature's perfect food storage preservers.  It works great to dress edges and backs.

At the risk of sounding like some green, left-over-from-the-'70s, tree-huggin' freak, (not that there is anything wrong with that), organic bee's wax from a bee-keeper is one of the best sources for bee's wax for your leather goods.  It is much softer and easier to rub into the leather, (not that it's goin' to be easy).  It still takes a lot of friction to get that wax into the poors of the leather.  I guess that's why folks buy soft compounds with fancy names.  They are easier to use.

But, I really doubt you will find anything better for leather than evoo and rubbed-in organic bee's wax.  I'll take a block of bee's wax and rub down the edges and burnish it with a piece of brain-tanned deer hide.  For the fleash side, I'll rub it down with a block of bee's wax and again, burnish with the hide.  If I know a saddle is goin' somewhere wet, I'll give the hide surface the same treatment.  I'll do this to the pieces before I assemble the saddle.  It's a lot of work, but a saddle is goin' to do a lot of work.  Best to give it a head-start on survivin'.  I don't usually treat holsters and belts with bee's wax because they usually don't see such a hard life and are less likely to be left someplace they could get mildew.  I also use the organic bee's wax on my flax linen thread for the same reasons.  Who wants their stitching to dry rot?

I once experimented with compounds, melting specific amounts of bee's wax and adding it to evoo.  Then I realized I was degrading the evoo with the higher temperatures needed to mix them together.  It kind'a defeated the purpose.  If I could figure out a way to homoginize them without raising the temperature, I'd put it in a tin and market it.  But, a couple years after I stopped experimenting, someone else started marketin' the same thing.  Oh well.  Don't change nuthin' though.  Evoo and organic bee's wax are still some of the best things you can put on leather, and they smell purty.

Will

P.S.  Maybe I'll go out and buy me a heavy-duty blender...hum?