Ejector Rod Two

[Flint]

This is the installation I did.  Parts from VTIgunparts for the 71/72 Opentop.



Gripframes from Thunderer

[will52100]

Good job Flint, how did you cut the grove?  I've got one I've been wanting to install, and been thinking of using a ball end mill.

[Flint]

I used a 7/16 ball end mill.  If you could find one, an 11mm would be closer, but I doubt there's one available at a decent price.

I clamped the barrel down with a 1/16 spacer at the muzzle end to level the boreline parallel to the mill table.  Measure your barrel at the front and rear to see what your taper is, and use a spacer 1/2 the difference.  That will align the ejector rod with the chambers in the cylinder.  See the photo for the approximate depth of the ball end mill cut, it almost runs off the barrel flat, and just starts to cut into the forcing cone extension.  The edge of the groove just about touches the edge of the wedge slot.

Measure very carefully the distance from the center of the ejector housing to the center of the screw lug, and center the ball end mill that distance above the loading lever screw hole.  I recall it was about 5mm, but I can't swear to it.

You will have to counterbore the right side of the barrel centered on the threaded loading lever pivot screw hole to the depth and diameter of the ejector housing's lug.  Carry that counterbore diameter up to the center of the ball end mill cut, tangent to the ball end mill cut (see photograph) to level the housing.

It would be nice to make a filler block to go into the loading lever slot in the barrel, I didn't do that yet.  Carefully locate the screw hole in the filler block so the Ejector retaing screw can also retain the filler block.

There is a flat on the bottom rear of the ejector housing tube to clear the wedge, but it is spaced for the installation on a 72 Opentop.  You will have to extend it a bit for the location on the 51 Navy barrel.

Note in the photos how the rear of the ejector tube is a bit forward of the barrel edge, which is something we are stuck with because of the location of the Navy's lever pivot screw.

I used Opentop wedges, and retaining screws, as they don't have the spring, but are retained by the head of the screw, which has a flat cut in it for removal of the wedge, bt turning the screw a bit.  Get a few extra screws, as the thread start is different on each and you don't want the flat aligned when the wedge is in place.  I did notice, however that the Opentop wedge is too loose in some Navies.

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[will52100]

Thanks Flint, that's basicly the idea I had.  I've got a set of ball end mills, think I've got a 7/16"   That and line the bore to .357.