Yep, ya need the wedge in tight enough so the barrel doesn't wiggle. Don't matter where the springntipis it's all in whether or not the barrel is tightened by the wedge.
Any problems with the guns cylinder gap when the wedge is in tight? Does the cylinder get pinched by the barrel and turn hard when the wedge is tight? Problem.....
Some cap&ballers I have with a arbor hole in the barrel that is on the "way loose" side of the tolerance specs. I'll insert a shim in the barrels hole with the arbor being inserted in the barrel. I cut a certain thickness shim stock with scissors so the shim is put on top of the arbor above where the wedge slot is. A littlelonger than the wedge slot. The shim doesn't wrap arounf then arborand get in the way of the wedge slots. It stays on top.
The thinner the shim the more loose and the widder the shim the tighter the barrel is on the arbor/gun.
When I lay the shim on the arbor and insert them in the barrel I use a lil screw driver to keep the shim from backing out of the barrels hole. The shim shouldn't show when the barrels on the arbor.
The shim in there really helps the gun be stable. The barrel shouldn't move on the arbor at all when the shim is in the hole with the arbor.
Actually I think the barrel shouldn't move at all when it's put on the arbor (even without a shim but making a new arbor that fits the barrels hole properly is a hassel for me with out a lathe).....but there has to be some loose.....to get the barrel on and off easily enough. When I have a barrel shimmed on the arbor and it's tight ,like I want it to be, I use the loading lever and the plunger between the chamber holes to tap the barrel off the gun(Colt).
When the barrel is tight on the arbor the "gun shoots better" and usually less high. If the arbor is also bottomed in the barrels hole the guns always seem to shoot better and less high. Sometimes the gun may have shot high,as cap&ballers do, and then with the shim on the arbor and the arbor bottomed in the barrels hole .....shoot to the point of aim windage wise and elevation wise. That's always a nice scenario.
I have tightened barrels on arbors with shims or weld spots and file fit and.....have a gun/Colt that shoots dead on elevation wise with the small front sight it came from the box with it.
Years ago I bought a coupla Pietta Navy Colts and....both shot to point of aim right out of the box. I remember the first one I tested.....shot at a thin stick laying on the hill and broke it in half. Then broke the two halves in half. Then broke more of them in half till six shots were gone. Both those danged Colts shot to the point of aim right out of the boxes.
They both had the arbors fit just snug enough in the barrels so the space left in the barrels hole was at minimum specs. ......proof in the puddin?
Kinda tells one that if they wanted to tune a Colt to be a good shooter the first thing to do would be to have a new arbor made that has very little space in the barrels hole once the arbor is in it. Make it so there is no movement of the barrel on the arbor even before the wedge is inserted.
There are some Belgian Centennials made by Centaure (1860 Army Colts)that have the arbor and the barrels hole tapered a little and when the barrel gets to where it should be on the arbor the taper is what stops it in the right place and....those have no movement of the barrel on the arbor and they usually shoot very very good. Wedges need be only thumb pressed in to hold too.
A Colt ,known to be less accurate than the Remington cap&ballers, can be as accurate as the Remington cap&ballers if they are put together properly with tighter tolerances.
If a person was in that fraternity that compete with the cap&ballers target shooting and had a Colt that kept up with or beat out the Remingtons you'd be a rare bird.