1849 Wells Fargo Conversion

[rep1954]

I have just ordered a Uberti 1849 Wells Fargo with the intentions of doing a 32 S&W conversion. In searching for period correct photos it seems to me that the Kirst Konverter with the loading port seems to be the closest thing that I can fine. Were  there any actual conversions made for these guns like the R&D Cylinders? I kind of like the idea of not modifing my gun in the loading gate area as with using the R&D Cylinder but I still also would like to be period correct. Do the modern 32 S&W rounds work well in these guns or do they require a heeled or hollow based bullet?

[Slowhand Bob]

Try contacting Raven to see if he will pull one from the line without cutting the port.  Figuring that these guns, unlike main match pistols, will rarely get reloaded more than once or twice for side match use, it shouldn't be a big deal to pull the cylinder for reloading.  I went with this concept for my newest '58 Rems, solid rings gives me guns that can still swing both ways!

[rep1954]

Well I got both my 1849 Wells Fargo and a R&D conversion cylinder. Looking at the gun visually on the exterior I was very satisfied. The cylinder seem to be of good quality and I would say a couple of steps above the quaility of the gun. I knocked out the wedge and pulled the barrel while the hammer was on half cock. I then removed the cap and ball cylinder and put on the R&D cylinder into the cylinder frame and installed the barrel. I went to put the wedge back in and just dont get how they did it at the factory. They must have used quite a large mallet. I had to clean up some heafty burrs that they had raised. Anyway I went to cock the gun and it just locked right up to the tone that I had to dissasemble the gun to remove the cylinder. I found that the bolt would not enter the slots that are supose to receive it in the R&D cylinder. I smoothed and stoned the bolt until it fit into the R&D cylinder slots and reassembled the gun but to no avail the same thing, the gun just locked up again upon trying to cock it. I then noticed the bolt slots in the original cylinder were much deeper than the the ones in the R&D cylinder. I then dissasembled the gun again and put it all back together with the cap and ball cylinder to prove that it was working correctly with that cylinder. What I discovered was that when the gun was pointed upward it would not cock, when held level it would cock but not real smoothly, and when pointed with the muzzle downward and cocked the it opperated just fine. I have worked on single actions before but never had anything like this happen. I guess I should somehow get this gun working with the cap and ball cylinder first and then atack the R&D cylinder second. I could not beleive how thight they had the trigger/bolt spring. I ended up buggering it up some trying to make it loose. Well any advice or suggestions would be nice and I would like to correct this myself without sending it away if at all possible. Thanks, Randy

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[Abilene]

Howdy rep,
your hand spring is broken.  Your description of the problem describes this problem exactly.

[rep1954]

The hand spring isnt broke but it is part of the problem. I think it's more like hand junk then hand spring. You can bend it to whatever shape you want and it will stay in that shape pretty much. This gun looks pretty nice when you take it out of the box but once you start taking it apart a whole different story unfolds. I could not believe how soft the screws are and the trigger spring screw just would not budge until I heated it up with a small hand held tourch. The finish on the inside was shameful, with huge burrs left on the gun and some parts and then a finish applied to them. To me this gun was worth about half of what was paid for it. Now that I have taken it apart I guess it's mine and I will work with it but next time I will start with one of the Colt assembled guns. I would rather start out with a higher priced quality gun. I hate to say it but based on this gun the Italians better hope that China does not get into the blackpowder reproduction market because they will just blow them away. I will try and find some new screws and replace the hand spring with a new hand made one. The trigger, bolt, and hammer screw seem to be of good quality but thats it by way of screws. If anyone knows where I can pick up some good well made replacement screws I would be happy to hear about it. The hammer spring and trigger/bolt spring appears to be of better quality and usable. The new cartridge cylinder has stock left on it in the ratchet area that the original cylinder does not and I think it's causing the hand from coming forward and just locks the action up. I am open to any pointers here from someone if they care.

[rbertalotto]

Has the universe reversed itself? There was a time when the Ubertis were the better of Pietta. I'm not sure that is true any longer. I bought six Piettas in the last four months. Two of each, 1851, 1858 and 1860. All of them are simply perfect right out of the box. The fit and finish on the internals and the internal parts themselves are just about flawless. Much better than the inside of a set of Ruger NM Vaqueros I recently bought. The actios are so smooth to believe they were worked on by a smith before shipping. Very impressed.

I also bought an 1873 Uberti Winchester and had to disassemble and stone and polish everything on the inside to make it even close to smooth.

Sorry about your Uberti. But it sounds like you figured out the issue and you should have it up and running true in no time.

[StrawHat]

Regardless of who amkes them, I consider the C&B revovler to be something of an assembled "Kit".  Deburring is an accepted fact.  SPrings not so much but screws are usually soft.  Uberti was better last century but from what I have heard of late, none of them will win prizes for QC.

My ASM needed everything internal replaced.  Now it is a fine shooter.