1851 Navy reviews

[andy42s]

I'm interested in purchasing an 1851 replica in .36. I want a cap and ball, which I am planning to convert at sometime in the future, but I want to be able to have the cap & ball capability. Are the ones sold at Cabela's Piettas? Are those any good? What about Traditions? Also what would be recommended for a conversion? I'm new to CAS, so I don't know much about this stuff. Is reloading necessary during a match? If so I guess I'd need a gated conversion rather than a drop in. What about R&D vs Kirst? Thanks for any input or advice 

[St. George]

Your best bet is to take a look at previous posts in the 'back pages' of the different forums that interest you.

A lot has already been written and discussed - covering sellers, manufacturers and such, of both the percussion revolver and various conversions of same.

If you're new to C&WAS - there are a myriad of topics to peruse, and you'll enjoy the research, and the subsequent savings as you refine your searching.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[44caliberkid]

Cabelas are Piettas, but a lot of them are junky unless you can stand in the store and look at every one.  EMF Hartford 1851 navy's are Pietta also, but EMF holds them to a higher standard, plus you can get a slight deal on the pistol + conversion cylinder.  I would guess that Traditions are probably Pietta too, but I'm not sure.  You can get a Uberti, which in some cases are nicer, from Texas Jacks, which carries Uberti's by way of Cimmaron.
  Most CAS matches don't have reloading on the clock anymore, although one pistol classes usually require reloading, such as Working Cowboy class in NCOWS.  Most CAS shoots , you need two pistols.

http://www.texasjacks.com/


http://www.emf-company.com

Feel free to PM me with any 's

[Ransom Gaer]

I have one of the Cabelas 1851 Navies and it was made by Pietta.  Mine is a decent little revolver.  If there is something I don't like it is the grip shape.  It is different than the Ubertis.  I prefer the grips on the Ubertis and especially the 1860 Army grips which are little larger.  It's still a fun little revolver to shoot.  I would recommend getting Treso nipples frpm Thunderridge for it if you get one.  They are a real improvement over the factory nipples and use Remington #10 caps, also available from Cabelas.  All of my cap and ball revolvers have them.  If I get any more, they will get them.

I have no experience with the Kirst conversion so I won't say anything one way or the other.  I have a couple of the R&D conversion cylinders for the 1858 Remington New Model Army.  That is all I use in them anymore.  The problem I have with them for the Colt style revolver is you have to remove the barrel and barrel wedge every time you unload and load.  Seems like kind of a pain.  The Remingtons with the conversion cylinder are easy to unload and load.  Drop the loading lever, pull the cylinder pin and roll the cylinder out.  To load reverse the process.  Just like in "Pale Rider."   Gotta get those style points.

I have been to a few matches where there was a reload on the clock.  Usually it is just one chamber that needs to be loaded and not the whole cylinder.  On a one chamber reload what you do is charge all six chambers prior to the stage.  I charge my revolvers while I watch the unloading table.  Do posse chores and reload at the same time.  Cap and ball revolvers are considered unloaded until you cap them.  Then you cap five at the loading table.  Once the buzzer has gone off and you start shooting the revolver it is recommended to cap the sixth chamber prior to shooting that revolver.  Helps prevent chain fires.  Best to discuss with the RO prior to shooting the stage.  Some stage instructions require shooting the revolver and then reloading.  I have shot a stage where there was a complete reload of a revolver.  The stage was based on the big gunfight at the end of "Open Range."  I used the Remingtons in that match.  That helped. With cap and ball the usual procedure is to stage a charged revolver where it will be used and then cap it on the clock.  Reloads on the clock are rare though.

Have fun and maybe we'll see ya on the trail somewhere.  If you have any questions you can pm me too.

Ransom Gaer

[andy42s]

thanks to 44 and ransom. I may go with the Pietta, and since reloading isn't an issue, I'll go with a drop in conversion. Thanks again.

[The Avocado Kid]

I would say for the money the Pietta's at Cabela's is the best deal going...1851 Navy for $189.00 is hard to beat. The 1860 Army is $209.00 a good deal also. I have three revolvers(one "58" Remy) all Pietta from Cabela's and I must say not one of them is "Junky" maybe I was lucky but if you read the reviews at Cabela's they are all good or better. I use R&D cylinders and I like them... they drop right in... no fuss. I have owned Uberti's and for the most part a little better made but I have had some "Junky"ones from them....same can happen with Pietta as well. The new Pietta's are way better made these days soooo I would say if you are on a budget buy the Pietta revolver from Cabela's. Good Luck!

[Flinch Morningwood]

I bought two 1851's from Cabela's and I am very happy with both...although one is a bit naturally "slicker" than the other in terms of the action.

I have the R&D screw in/loading gate conversions (38 Long Colt) and the Kirst ejection rods...did the conversions myself and am extremly happy with them.  I load a hollow-base round  with 15 grains of 3F and have all the power I need with none of the Dirty Harry recoil I get with my 1858 Remmie 45 LC conversions.

I did make new, two-peice grips for them (one of curly Maple and one of Holly, a white wood that looks like aged Ivory when oiled) as it makes it easier for me to clean them by just removing the grips and dumping the major peices in moose milk.

You could do a lot worse than a couple of these...and, at least up here in Connecticut, they are fairly unique.

[Buffalow Red]

i have allways been a remy shooter but been looking at 51's in44 & 60's army in 44 whats the difference other than styling & round barrel
how about brass framed 51's in 44 cal any one know about them

[Flint]

The main difference between a 44 caliber '51 and a '60 Army is the barrel and gripframe.  The 44 caliber Navy '51 never existed until the Italians invented it, the '60 Army is historically accurate, if that matters to you.

The 51 barrel is 7-1/2 inches long, the 60 Army barrel is 8 inches long.  The Navy grip is shorter than the Army, and if you have large hands, you might prefer the Army grip.

If you intend to install a cartridge conversion cylinder, do NOT get a brass frame.  Even as a cap & ball, the brass frame will not hold up to heavy loads.

[Pistolero]

Hello all,
I have an older 1851 Navy from "Traditions" in .44. The only markings on it other than the proof marks and serial number is where under the right side of barrel above the loading lever it says "A.S.M. Black Powder Only Made in Italy" . I was told "A.S.M." stand for "Armi San Marco".  It came with an extra cylinder which is smooth without the engraved Naval scene. The one in it is engraved with the Naval scene. 

Also, I say it is older because I bought it at an old mom and pop type store and the "Traditions" box it came in was covered in dust and the price tag was only $149.00.  That is cheap compared to the modern price of around $249.00 or so that say Bass Pro Shop is asking for it.

But it is a nice, well made pistol with nice color case hardening, etc.. The action is smooth and flawless, the cylinder lines up perfectly without any play in it. I can't wait to fire it.
Take care,
Pistolero
Alabama