Welts

[Massive]

I find my welts separate from the leather.  I have a Bianchi holster that is old and the welt is solid it has not pulled away from the sides of the leather in the pocket where the gun goes.  I also have the Bianchi tape, and I am using the same glue he used when he made the tape, I'm guessing they used something a lot more stinky when he made the holster I have, but he said many nice things about the glue he used in the tape. 

Story has it I got on this endless crafting thing when my mom said about 45 years ago that I was "good at gluing", on some kid project.  Since they I have used every imaginable glue, and sometimes in barrel quantities.  I think my technique is solid.  Though maybe I am not doing enough to prep the surface, or doing it correctly.  Or maybe there is something about the drying time before assembly.  Could be anything.

Another thought I had was that I was sewing too much towards the edge of the holster, thereby unsupporting the welt.  But I am following plans, and looking at other holsters.  Seems OK.

Another thought I had is I am making the holsters too small and applying too much force to get them molded.  I am very careful of that step, have followed plans, as well as using my own designs.  Right today I looked at some holsters I had just folded and glued and sewn, they are flattened out at this stage, and the welt is already separating.  It certainly hasn't torn free of the leather.  So there is failure in the bond.

I am using LG2.,  I have had problems  with both lined and unlined holsters.

I am doing everything right   , and it is ending up wrong.  So what do you expect of your welts, and what is the most likely source of failure.

[Trailrider]

The best cements for leather are Barge, and also a product called Walther's Goo. The former is available from most Tandy/Leather Factory stores. Walther's Goo is available from William Walthers in Milwaukee, WI, although many model train shops stock it in tubes. The latest iteration of Barge cement, in the small tubes, has had the formular changed, and as bad as the old formular is in oder, the new stuff is worse! Apply the cement to both sides of the welt and the surfaces of the main piece of leather. Allow to dry for a half-a-minute or so, then press the layers together, preferrably under some pressure. This should hold forever, if done right.

[dwight55]

Do yourself a favor, . . . put the glue in a box, . . . advertise it on Ebay, . . . take the first bid, . . . be glad.

Go to any big box lumber store, . . . or a decent hardware store, . . . buy a quart of Weldwood Contact Cement, . . . and don't look back.  There are products that are as good, . . . but none better, . . . period.

Get a pack of those metal handled plumbers brushes, . . . a light coat on both sides, . . . make sure it all is covered, . . . warm dry it with a hair dryer or heat gun, . . . stick em together, . . . roll it with a rolling pin (belts) or a wall paper seam roler for holsters.

Make sure both pieces are dry, . . . DRY, . . . touch it with your hand, . . . no sticky.

I made an IWB holster for a Bersa Thunder .380, . . . wore it and wore it, . . . finally gave it away.  Not one stitch in that rascal, . . . Weldwood only, . . . far as I know it is still in service. 

The one thing you will not like about it, . . . if you get it on something that later on you want to stain, . . . you are out of luck.  it is an absolute resist, . . . no dye goes through it. 

May God bles,
Dwight

[Cliff Fendley]

I had never thought of trying Weldwood on leather but recently started using it after Chuck Burrows recommendation and really like it best.

[Red Cent]

I use the gel DAP Weldwood Contact adhesive. Apply with a small paint brush or with a dauber. After coating the surfaces, I "antagonize" the glue with the brush for a few seconds. I, then, use a heat gun on low to rid the glue of the solvent that is inherent in most glues. When you put the pieces together, be sure they together correctly.  In most cases, after a minute or two, you will tear leather prying them apart.

[Chuck 100 yd]

I also use Weldwood contact cement. Good stuff. I but acid brushes from Harbor Freight to apply it with. Those acid brushes have metal handles and are just a couple bux for 50 or so. They go straight into the garbage after use.
Weldwood can be found at any hardware around these parts.

[TexasToby]

I use the Weldwood Dap with the little metal handle brushes. Bought a quart about 2 years ago and keep the lid on tight when not in use. Tear leather before it comes unglued.

[knucklehead]

i used weldwood once but found it to take a while to set for glueing.
i now use masters cement and setup time is half of the weldwood.
i found it at oregon leather.

only use masters cement now.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

There is good information on gluing here. I've added a link to this thread to our FAQ thread under "Welts (Good information on gluing)".

I know this will help many. I'm just about out of my last big can of original Barge cement and will need something to replace it soon. (I've been using it sparingly and thinning it to keep it alive.) I've tried the new Barge and it is... unsatisfactory, to say the least. I'll try Weldwood next. Thanks to all who have contributed.

[Camano Ridge]

I will put in my vote for weld wood alos. I have used Barge, all of the fifferent tady goos etc. About 4 years ago I switched to Weldwood and I have no intention of switching to anything else it works great. The biggest thing is not to get in a hurry. Let it set up until it feels dry then put the two pieces together. Make sure you have the pieces aligned cerrectly once you stick them together they are stuck. I use the non flammable it has low odor and sticks very well.

[ChuckBurrows]

Yep I have used Weldwood since the 1970's when I worked in a furniture shop where we did a lot of leather desk tops, inlays, etc. and have never looked back.  One thing I like about it is in the very dry country I live in (SW Colorado) it does not de-hydrate/thicken as fast as others.

Barge is (was?) good and was originally developed for the shoe trade for gluing on soles.

If you need to thin Weldwood or for cleaning brushes, etc. use Xylene, available at most hardware/paint stores - don't need much - a quart lasts me a couple of years....

[Red Cent]

Hey Knucklehead. Cuts your waiting time more than half.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html#.Uyd5XNzD_cs

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I checked with the local leather/shoe repair shop. They now use Weldwood cement.

[St8LineLeatherSmith]

A  BIG+1 for the Weldwood contact cement I buy the stugg a quart at a time