A beginners project

[Slowhand Bob]

I think this is about as simple a beginners project as one could make and still, unlike most kits, perform all the steps from buying his leather to completing a useful Cowboy Action Shooting project.  The tools required are basic standbys that will always have a place near the front of the bench.  I will give my opinions on the tools I used to make the badge slide shown and welcome some of the true artists hear to jump in with advice and opinions to help us out. Two things not covered are actual photos of the actual construction being performed and the dying process.

First is the pattern (done on a cereal box paperboard) and I hope it shows up well enough for the notes to show, if not I will retrace it to white paper.  While making this pattern I used the same tools that I used on the leather and the techniques are not that far different from cutting out the leather.  With most patterns being on standard white paper, I like to begin by gluing a copy of the original to paperboard, always keeping an original filed/saved back.  My patterns normally will print out to size if you have the right photo enhancement program.  I know they work with PSP and Photo Elements, at any rate.  I use a standard hard lead school pencil with a slightly dull (rounded) point to trace the outline and all hole positions, its primarily the impression that guides your cut.       

[Slowhand Bob]

I am doing this one seperatly due to the fact that it is the busiest and contains the most information.  As referred to in the first post you can see the pencil, the slot punch, the two round punches and the utility knife used to create the pattern and transfer it to our 8/9oz piece of leather.  Pencil courtesy of Wal-Mart, the two hole punches and the slot punch came from Tandy and I believe to be their cheap import line.  Any box opener will work but I do prefer the angle head shown here (my most used knife) and these can be had at Tandy also.  I believe the last tools shown are the old Tandy Craftool 1/4" French edger and #2 edge beveler. 

Some may frown upon my recommendation but the Cal-hawk brand punche set in the background was one of the best bargains I have ever found on new leather working tools.  I purchased three sets with the idea that they would not last long BUT BOY was I wrong!  The whole sets were purchased at a flea market dealers for less than ten dollars per set.  There are plenty of punch makers out there and all worked except for a few smaller sizes, especially in the screw-in tip sets, that had the ends split from rough use.

I used the head knives for a fair number of years and accumulated several in various styles and will not recommend them to anyone but certainly would advise a new leather worker not to try his hand at them until he is a bit more experienced with working with leather and sharpening his tools.  To each his own but I much prefer the utility knife shown in conjunction with a coupole of other styles for all of my cutting needs now.  I know Johnson and Johnson stock has probably dropped since I left the head knife behind!

I like both of the Craftool brand edgers shown and sometimes reach for them in preference to much more expensive versions.  I like the angle that both cut from really well and they dress up and hold an edge well also.  In the next post I will talk a bit about what has happened to our short leather strap.   

[JD Alan]

Well I'm game Bob, because I had a guy at the last match ask if I would make him three of them; one for SASS, one for our club badge, and one for the badge we loan out when someone completes our Marsahall program.

Have you given any thought to doing something on the back to protect the belt? I know Eight bits puts a light piece of leather on the back to protect the belt. Just curious.

Slowhand Bob to the rescue again!    

FYI Just now my wife tried pulling it up in Photoshop using Photo Element and it comes out very tiny.

[JD Alan]

I just bought the 1/2 inch bag punch yesterday because it was on sale for 21 something, normally 32. I agree with the angled utility knife and the punch set; they work just fine

[JD Alan]

Bob, I can't quite make out the dimensions, is it 3 X 9 inches? I'm assuming it must be

[Slowhand Bob]

JD, what I am doing is clicking on the picture to blow it up within the post (do not kow if this is necessary or not but I do it).  Then I right click on the image and from the drop down menue select 'save image as' (option is below half way down) and you will be prompted to select a location/file in which to save the image on your computor.  I make sure it is saved as a jpeg and give it a name that I want.  When I open Photo Elements and retrieve the file it will print out to scale on my printer.  Keep that out line and we will make a two round shotshell slide again, but a bit different on that pouch.  I have not forgotten your package but thet #$%&*@!^ metal lined holster project has been whupping up on me!

On the last photo there were two areas that were skived (that is the leathers rough back facing up) with the French edger, between the badge hole and slot and the center fold.  The center fold line is done as a simple single pass, keeping the center line in the middle of the cut.  This cut should come out not much thicker than paper, a thin cut goes a long ways when we wet it later.  The other cut is a bit different, we want a little depth in this cut to accept the badges pin freely.  I just use the French skiver for two quick cuts here, the first being a shallow basic cut.  Next, I lay the skived line on the round edge of my bench and roll it into a slight convex presentation to get a slightly deeper and rounder cut this second time.  A few practice cuts on some scrap will have you doing it properly in no time, just learn to control your depth and do not exceed half the total thickness at most.

[MontanaSlick]

Bob, looks like some heavy hardware there and the hand stitchin on the holster, I like that, shows craftmanship.

Yer project looks real good, keep us posted on yer progress.

Slick

[JD Alan]

Thanks for that print out tutorial Robby, I got it now!

[Slowhand Bob]

Slick there is a lot more to that photo than is comfortable to talk about pard.  If you think the side clutter invaded the picture. you should have seen it before cropping!  Whenever I want to play leather I have to take a shovel to that bench first.  The two holster toes that show up are a couple of thumbs down projects that are early attempts at doing some metal skeletons in some new pattern sizes and they have whupped me good my friend.  The metal inlays are not the problem, its the 40+oz thickness of the welts that suddenly do not want to sew.  OH WELL, as Scarlett said, "Tomorrows another day".

In that last picture you can see that I installed the line 20 snaps, some would use line 24 snaps here (optional), using the Tandy deluxe  setting kit.  They work but I much prefer the more expensive Osborn brand setting tools.  With the Tandy Craftool stitch groover shown I cut a decorative groove around the project.  I really like this groover for most edge layout work but avoid their smaller model that looks similar but isnt.  To add some contrast I used the Black permanent marker to highlight the groove and raw edges.  I think it is a quick and easy way to add a little something extra on this small of an item.  With so little available space it can get to busy fast.

The picture below shows what it looks like finished and with a badge in place.  The hole and slot can be adjusted if necessary for your needs but the spacing from the pattern fits my badges perfectly.  Im sure I have overlooked some details or perhaps glossed over them to quickly so feel free to ask for more details.  Next I want to use the same slide pattern but use it to hold a two round shot shell cup.  This one will require an additional small piece of leather in 6/7oz weight and a couple of different tools and techniques.    

[MontanaSlick]

I like that Slowhand Bob, you really did a good job on it, and I like the color, easy on the eyes.


You got clutter? Yer otta see my clutter, but I know where everything is located, Sometimes.

[Ned Buckshot]

These are the 3 stitching goovers I have. I use the top 2 alot and hardly ever use the Danny Marlin? It's beautifully made and works very well but I have never been able to get real comfortable with it so it sits in the drawer, havn't even looked at it for over a year! I got it as a gift and probably would have never bought one for myself considering the price. I would like to rid myself of it but havn't found a buyer as of yet.

My favorite is the cheapest one, cuts tight corners etc very well for me!

Ned

[Slowhand Bob]

The one you show in the middle is my favorite while the cheapest one, top, I do not care for but I do know what you are talking about.  On very tight inside radius's, deep cuts at the hammer etc, that long overhang of the blades tail will mar the leather or hang on it.  I guess one could cut some of it off but there is an alternate, the Horseshoe Brand caries a copy of the old Osborne compass style groover and this works well for the real irregular curves, I really like my old Osborne version.

This is a somewhat tricky subject for the beginner, tool selection.  Sometimes when we try to recommend a specific tool to new leather crafters, you will not get a consensus of opinion from the experienced guys.  Its like the cheaper edge finish tool or French edger made by Craftool, for me they work better than expensive brand names that cost many times what I invested in these BUT I know why.  Many times something as simple as how the cutting edge is positioned by the maker will drastically alter the angle at which the tool performs best and this will cause it to be an issue of which feels more natural to the individual user.

Well, I am going to try one more time to get that dang big sewing machine to do right before pulling out the old Tippmann Aero to rescue it.  BUT then, that is a topic for another time.....

[MontanaSlick]

Thanks Ned fer the pik, expensive isn't always the best route to take.

I'll give yer idea a try, Thanks.
MS