Hardening leather?

[Antipaladin]

I have a Kramer leather and a Mitch Rosen holster and noticed they are a good deal stiffer than
your standard harness leather. How do they get it like this? Pressure? Casing?

[ChuckBurrows]

The following method of a hardening leather is not my invention. The basic method has been in continuous use for several thousand years. I have studied the subject extensively and the following method is based on what bonafide experts say. I have heard of some people dipping the leather in acetone instead of wetting it with water, but I don't like using that stuff unless absolutely necessary.

The process was known as cuir boulli (boiled leather) in the Middle Ages, but they NEVER actually boiled the leather. (I've tried it - it will totally ruin your leather - TOO HOT - the leather will shrivel up into a tight ball). The process is still used commercially to make cigar cases and such - it was never a "lost" art.

1) "Case" your leather to moldability. The outside aka smooth side of the leather must have no finish on it at this point (if you're doing a pouch type sheath it's OK to finish the inside first and then sew it). To case my leather I thoroughly dampen the sheath or whatever, put it in a plastic bag, and leave it over night in the refrigerator. You want it damp not soaking. It is properly "cased" or "sammed" when the color is almost the same color as a dry piece, but it will feel "cool" to the touch and act like semi-stiff putty. This is the same state you bring it to when tooling it.
2) Mold and bone it to shape if this is desired, but don't let it get too dried out. You can re-moisten it by wrapping it in lightly a dampened towel and putting it back in the plastic bag for a while.
3) Here is the process that makes leather hard - semi-rapid dehydration from the damp state. Dry your item between 120-160 deg F. I use a thermostatically controlled food dehydrator for this, but you can also do it by making a 2-3' square wooden box and setting a hot plate in it or set it up with a couple of light sockets with 100 watt bulbs. Use an oven thermometer and make a little sliding door so you can control the heat. A small fan to move the air around inside the box will help. Suspend the leather so the hot air can move around all sides. You need to experiment with temperature and the wetness of your leather until you get the hang of it. The thickness of your leather determines a lot as well - thinner leather dries faster and can wrinkle or shrivel very easily. I'd recommend 5-7oz vegtan for small sheaths and 8/9 oz for larger ones.
KEEP AN EYE ON IT! Too hot and the leather will either shrivel up or turn out so hard that it will crack. Too low and it won't get hard enough (you can always re-wet and re-dry). I've found best success at around 130-140F for good stiffeness. You can also dip it into a pot of 160-180F water and then put it in your drying box. EXPERIMENT WITH SCRAP if you do this one. This will make it dry faster and harder. I don't find it necessary.
4) Leather dye will also stiffen leather to a degree as it dries it out chemically. If you're going to dye do it I suggest it after the above process. I then use first a light coat or two of Lexol Conditioner and then a water resistant top coat of something like Bag Kote or Tan Kote. I have read some fragmentary accounts of how they did use pure melted beeswax or a mixture of beeswax and pitch to waterproof it (Leather drinking Jacks and Bots were lined with brewer's pitch to make them watertight with cold liquids). With larger pieces such as breastplates they sometimes glued in fine woven linen or canvas linings.

I've made leather armour out of 10/11oz and 45/46 oz using this method that will turn a sharp sword stroke when properly padded underneath.

One caveat: this is always a touch and go process - every hide is different even in the same weights.

For even more info - http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/leather/hl.html

[Hank Rugerman]

I use a crock pot.... so it's only good for smaller parts..

Through tutorials on the net...I had come across a secret formula..only known by wizards and conjurors...

naw...

1 Block of parrafin wax
1 mink oil (small tin)
1 lexol leather conditioner Pint

Put all the goodies in a crock pot and turn up the heat on high...melt them all down

Drop the item in for a ~~~ minute...
Pull the sheath out, pour out in excess (back in the pot)
be ready to put the knife/item in the sheath (wrap it)....basically wet forming until the it drys
clean up
Turn off Crock pot...

I've had great luck with this and do all my sheaths this way...

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks for the great information, pards. A link to this thread is now in our FAQ thread.

[Ace Lungger]

I use a method kinda like Hank, it was mentioned to me, by a well know leather maker, when I do any project in one stage of finishing, i use a 100%neats foot oil that I have added melted bees wax, which makes the neats foot oil a little thicker, then I have a container of 50/50, it is like a cream! I used it on my double cross draw rig for my short open tops, so i could do twist and draw, I also dryed them in the hot son, and kept it bell just enough for fast draw and re holster.
This is only my 2 cents, but it works great for me!
ACE

[Antipaladin]

Always a pleasure, gentlemen. Thanks for the info.

[Slowhand Bob]

The last personal pair I made were actually very stiff and have never felt water.  If you make your holster from a 4/5oz liner well glued into an 8/9oz body I promise you will get a good stiff holster.