spot setting

[Justino Caballo]

Hello All,

         I wanted to ask if there is anyone on the forum that could exlain to me the proper way to set spots. is there an established method, special tools, an easy way to make a jig? Anything will help, all i am doing is wasting spots.

[cowboy316]

JC
well tandy actually has a spot setter tool set for like 30 buck but i cant afford it right now so what i do is with the leather just a little damn so the prongs of the spot make a mark as to where you want it the use a  finish nail or sewing awl to punch your hole then just flatten out the prongs on the back and to make it easier to hole the spot for marking take one of the long copper riveets and solder it to the top of a spot you can spare so you have a little handel
    just my $.02 worth
      Cowboy316

[Flinch Morningwood]

THis is the spot setter mentioned...well worth the money.  You sI do the setting on a rubber mat then fold the prongs in by hand with a flat punch...then set them with the same punch.

[Justino Caballo]

thanks fellers. i guess ill try and pick up that setter tool and play with it some. do i still need to use my awl to make holes or can the setter be used to push the spot in?

[cowboy316]

JC
if ya get that setter it will do the whole job at one time its a slick tool to have i used one once and swore ill have one some day but who knows LOL


      Cowboy316

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Howdy Justino

        The link below will show you the tools I use, not cheap but I feel worth the money, it holds your spot for easy placement when I run into leather that doesn't want be penetrated, I use a narrow blade Exacto knife to make my holes first, after marking the distance between the prongs, either with the prongs them selves or wing dividers set at the same width as the prongs, Standard Rivet also make longer pronged spots, and barbed pronged spots to for thick leather, where you just punch the spot in and it will stay there.  Hope this helps

                                                           tEN wOLVES 


                            http://www.standardrivet.com/machines-tools/tools/82-hand-held-tool-for-setting-round-head-spots.php

[Justino Caballo]

heck yes ten wolves! i need one of those. a great excuse to buy tools!

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

                Pard once you use this tool for setting your spots, you won't want anything else, and I fine Standard Rivets a great place to buy spots, there brass are solid brass not plated, and there prices are low, and you can buy the amount you want make sure you need enough things to order to off set the cost of shipping or it won't be worth your while, they get 16.00 for shipping.

      Justino, I also use this punch, you can set it for different widths, but make sure you buy the extra blades, they can break, this punch works best on the larger spots, because of the size of the hole, the smaller spots seem to push in with no problem, you just need to be careful as to how you set the spot in the tool, just have a little bit of the prong showing and keep the tool straight when you tap them in.  http://www.standardrivet.com/machines-tools/tools/80-hand-held-tool-with-blades.php


                                                          tEN wOLVES 

[ChuckBurrows]

What TW said - the Standard Rivet tools aren't perfect (I've got some ideas and am working with a tool maker so maybe one of these days...) but are much better than the Tandy ones - voice of experience I guess since I set 5-6,000 of the dad blamed things by hand every year......

[Springfield Slim]

I personally haven't had much luck with the spot setters as the prongs are just not that strong and tend to bend.I made me a tool with two projections that mark the holes and then I finish them with an awl. Bend over the prongs with a tack hammer.

[TN Mongo]

Is there a better product out there that will give the same look, but is more secure?

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

  Howdy Mongo


           Once you have turned your prongs in on the wider spots, and outward on the 1/8", then you tap them down with a flat round punch, I picked one up at Harbor Freight for a couple bucks, I like the 1/2" head, it covers the bent over prongs better, but I have several sizes, I just find myself using the 1/2" one more, once you have done this , they're in there to stay, but you have to have BOTH PRONGS THROUGH THE LEATHER AND TURNED, if you don't do this, and there is only one prong that is through the leather, it can rip out. I use a Pound-O-Board under my work, and after I have installed my spots on the finished side, the prongs are stuck in the Pound-O-Board, so when you pull your work up from the PB, that further pulls the prongs through the leather.


                                                   tEN wOLVES 

[Ace Lungger]

Howdy Pards,
Well Mister Cheapo here! When I go to garage sales if i can buy a wood paddel bit for a 25 cents, I buy from small to 5/8" and then I will go to work with my cuts and grinders and dremel and files and make me a 2 pronged punch for each side of spot i use, I find out were I want my spot, push it down lightly so i have a small impression, and then place my tool on the marks and then a smack it with a mallet which makes my cuts, push my spots thew and tap them over.
I am cheap!

Ace

I just want to have fun!

[JD Alan]

Well, Chuck answered my question; Is this tool from Standard really better than Tandy's? I've had so little success with spots I've about given up on using them, even though I would really like to use them.

I've watched Chuck set them on his DVD, but it sure doesn't work that way for me! What a shock, could experience be a factor

Thanks Justino for asking the question, and thanks to 10W and Chuck for weighing in

[cactus cowboy]

I just saw the Tandy spot setter online today when I was ordering some supplies. It looks like you need a tool to do just about everything (except empty your wallet). Hey Ace,  would you mind putting up a picture of the gizmo you made?

Cactus

[RollingThunder]

Here's how I do them (and I do have the Tandy Spot setter, but don't use it for the entire process any more).

I mark my spot hole, then punch two holes just to the inside of that mark. I push the spot in, and then use the spot setter to set the prongs in, and then one tap on the anvil to flatten them. You could also use a pair of pliers to squeeze the prongs in.

I also set spots before any oils or dyes, so that if I get a teensy bit of gap between the spot prong and the leather, it will swell back out with the oil/dye.

Spots set ...


Oil done -- dye on ...


Dye rubbed ...


And finished ... note that I antiqued the spots even more. Something you can keep in mind when wanting a little more "age" to your pieces.


And one, just 'cause I liked how the picture turned out. Sometimes the sun shines on the southbound end of a northbound dog.


Hope that helps.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

This is another very informative thread. I've put a link to it in our FAQ thread. Many thanks to all who have contributed to this one.

[cactus cowboy]

Thanks for the tips. Beautiful cuffs by the way. I'm totally impressed,  hopefully someday I can get to that level. How did you age your spots?

Cactus

[RollingThunder]

Stain. And lots of it. During the rubbing process, the stain gets up on the spots. Well, if you let it get up there and stay there, the spots will hold the color. If you rub the excess off, you get an antique feel to it. Then when you finish the leather, you apply whatever finish (wax, super shene, saddlelac) over the spots as well, or seal them with a matte finish.

[Trailrider]

I usually measure the spread between the prongs, mark the leather with a red ballpoint pen or the point of an awl, then use a SMALL optical screwdriver (the kind with the swivel top), tapping it hard enough with a hammer to punch through the leather.  The spots I use are from Tandy.  The length of the prongs are suitable for the following:  1/4" dia. = 8-9 oz maximum; 3/8" dia 9-10 oz. max.

After punching the slits with the screwdriver, I press the prongs through the slits and then bend them over with a needlenose pliars, turn the piece over, laying the spot against a piece of leather or rubber "pound" mat, and then use a hammer to set the prongs flush.

This method is slow, but I don't get a whole LOT of call for spots.  That said, I just completed a holster and belt for a customer and installed 62 ea. 1/4" spots on the holster and 94 ea. 3/8" spots on the belt (53-inch waist  ).

Hope this helps.