Results and Loading info for my Romano Spencer

[dm3280]

Here is a wordy description of how I create my loads and a photo of one of the groups at 50 yards.  The flier was the second shot in the string and I knew it was bad the second the rifle went off.  The cluster is 4 more shots.  Looks like 3 shots but there are 2 at the 7 o'clock position




I am sure most of your readers already know most of this but for those still trying to find that one magic load I hope this helps.  These are techniques that work for me and may not work for everyone.  Each gun is different and each person is different.  I have just found that each gun requires testing of different loads and techniques to get it to work right.  I never use smokeless powder in any of my guns that were designed for BP and I NEVER use different primers for smokeless loads that are not specified by a good loading manual.  Smokeless is a whole different animal.  Like someone said on this site, you can duplicate BP loads with smokeless but you can also fast exceed them using smokeless.  Everything below is what I have picked up from other shooters and in most part opinions that some may not agree with.  Your opinions may differ and I would love to hear them.  Like I say, I am always willing to try anything to get that one hole group.  What I explain below is not for competition but to get the best load for my gun.  I want to know when I go shoot the ammunition is not the problem when I miss, it is me.

In real estate they say location, location, location.  In reloading and shooting it is consistent, consistent, consistent.  Everything from casting bullets to pulling the trigger has to be as consistent as possible.  I have even read that it makes a difference as to where you rest the rifle on the support if using one.  I sort of believe in barrel harmonics and will try anything to get that one hole group.  Another golden rule when working up a load is only change one thing at a time.  Here is my formula for my Spencer that so far is showing good results but I think can be better.  If you just want to hear a bang fireworks are much cheaper

I shoot a Larry Romano carbine I purchased several years ago but just started really getting serious in load development.

Bullets:
I cast from lead that has an LBT hardness of 11.  I only keep bullets that are +- .5 from a bullet mould I purchased from Larry Romano.  The bullets weigh 330 grains and I size them with a .512 sizer and lube with SPG.

To cast the bullets I get the lead temperature to about 800.  Once I get the mould temp up and it is casting good clean bullets I get into a routine.  I use a ladle pour method.  I fill the ladle with lead, always to the same level in the ladle. Just as in loading powder with a baffle you want the same amount of weight pushing down on the molten lead in the ladle each time.   I put the spout to the mould which is tiped 90 degrees to meet the ladle tip and tip it upright and count to 4, Remove the ladle leaving a puddle of lead.  I count to 12 and cut the sprue and drop the bullet onto a cloth pad.  I fill the ladle and start the whole thing over keeping a consistent routine.   This keeps the mould temp consistent which I believe helps in making bullets with little weight variations.  Fewer get thrown back in.  I also look for any base problems or bullets with flaws.  Except nothing but the best.  

Cases:
I use Dixie 50-70 cases cut down to 1.2.  Once fire formed they are 1.95.  Keep all cases the same length for a group of loads you are going to use.  Don't use cases with various lengths.  After shooting I deprime the cases and clean in a tumbler with the ceramic media.  Cases look better than new when they come out, even the primer pockets are clean as new.

Primers:
I use Federal 215 but like the Federal Gold Match 215 when I can find them.

Powder:
Goex fff.  For my carbine I use 41 grains compressed.  Each rifle will like different loads.  Like one guy told me, let you rifle tell you what it likes, don't try and tell your rifle what it likes or you are in for lots of headaches.

One thing I have found is if I load up cartridges and do not shoot them for several months I do not get as good of groups as when the loads are fresh.  Not sure why, maybe lube migration?

Once I have good cast bullets and clean cases I currently resize them but looking at changing that and using fire formed cases.  With sized cases I think I am getting bullets deformed and bullet runout.  I use a 30 inch drop tube.  I set my Belding and Mull powder dispenser to 41 grains by weight.  Once set I do not weight the charge, just use what the dispenser drops.  I dribble the charge into the case and use a cardboard wad I cut from a milk carton.

I next compress the powder using a compression die.  I compress it deep enough to seat my bullet where I have an overall cartridge length of 1.550.  Never use the bullet to compress the powder.  This not only flattens the bullet some but also damages the base of the bullet which in my opinion is the most important part of a bullet for accuracy.  Remember you just sized it to .512 why make it bigger again by using it to compress the powder.  I use what I consider a heavy crimp.

When I was developing a load for my Sharps I picked one case, one bullet, one primer etc and only changed the powder charge.  I made up 5 rounds with 60 grains, 5 with 61, 5 with 62 all the way up to 68 grains.  I saw my groups go from 3 inches to over 12 inches, the smallest being 3 inches at 100 yards.  I took that load and made up 5 rounds with CCI 250 primers, 5 with Federal 210, 5 with Federal GM215, and so on.  I saw these loads create groups from 1.5 inch to 8 inches, just by changing the primer.  I next bought a Meachum in line seater and reduced my groups to about an 1 inch.  I now have locked down all my dies and have my notes in a 3 ring.  I tend to forget what I load after a few years so I have to keep good records.  Just about all these loading steps I do I picked up from members mainly in the Shiloh forum.  These guys are into LONG distance shooting and if it works for them there must be something there.  1000 yards is further than I can see let alone hit anything.

[Fox Creek Kid]

I agree with everything you say except for one small point: it is not really that critical to hold your bullet weight to such close tolerances for the Spencer. However, for long range, e.g., Sharps, Remington, it's nice to hold the bullets to + or - 2.0 gr. Actually, the bullet weight is not as critical as most would believe IMO per my experiences. I highly recommend you purchase the New Speer #14 reloading manual as they did actual scientific tests using laboratory equipment with BP 45-70 loads and the results may surprise you. 

[dm3280]

That would help keep bullets from going back into the melting pot.  I will give some that don't meet weight a try.

Thanks