Ejector Rod Housing Finished, Installed.

[Ottawa Creek Bill]

Here is the finished ejector rod housing assembly, blued (temporally) on my 1860 Richards:

The following steps will finish it:
Mix equal parts JB Weld

Pic #1. spray all areas with PAM cooking spray, for you guys that have glass bedded a rifle barrel know that you can't get a better releasing agent.

Apply JB Weld to the Housing lug and modified ram (see photos from first group of pics), fit together and push into barrel lug (photo 2) and let set up over night. This will come off during silver soldering, and is used only to hold the two pieces together for drilling two screw holes.

Remove assembly from barrel lug, drill and tap two 8/32 screw threads (#29 drill) into assembly (see attached photo # 7 from an earlier project)

Install two screws and silver solder in (you need to use a heat absorbing paste on the rest of the assembly or you have a good chance of the tube coming off...then you're screwed!!)

Cut off the screw heads and polish flush with the ram.

Polish and blue entire assembly and install on barrel (see photos # 3 &4 of finished project). Note how the rounded shoulders of the ejector head protrude from the end of the tube as per McDowell's Book (photo #3).

This barrel and ejector rod assembly was blued with Birchwood Casey, and will be reblued after the NCOWS national shoot the third week of this month.

Hope this helps some of you guys that would like to build one of these...it gets easier after you've made a few of them.

Bill

Click on right mouse key, hit "view image"  to enlarge

[Flint]

It looks like you've retained the assembly with a screw in the barel lug through a hole in the ejector assembly, what is the screw?

[Ottawa Creek Bill]

Flint,
Yes a screw does hold the assembly in place.

I used a blow up of a Richards barrel (measured from the front of the muzzle to the back of the forcing cone) from McDowell's book to make a template to help locate where the screw should be knowing the barrel length to be eight inches.

It is a 10/24 thread screw that I made from a Hammer screw that I re-threaded and fit to size. The reason I used that particular screw, is the head is almost a perfect fit (size) as the original screw on the template.

Bill